Car trailers sturdy enough to haul a B body.

[Kern Dog]

I talked to a respected buddy. He has a 16 foot Carson like the one below and says that he has used it to haul all sorts of cars including his 67 Coronet R/T. It concerns me a bit to have the back end of the car hanging out there but maybe I'd get used to that if I found a deal I could live with.

 

[GrabberOrange69]

I talked to a respected buddy. He has a 16 foot Carson like the one below and says that he has used it to haul all sorts of cars including his 67 Coronet R/T. It concerns me a bit to have the back end of the car hanging out there but maybe I'd get used to that if I found a deal I could live with.

View attachment 1145136

I had the same concerns about the tail hanging off the rear uncovered, and it’s why I went 18’.

 

[Kern Dog]

Click here for larger image

Specifications
General
Stock Number CALL FOR AVAILABILITY
Condition New
Year 2021
Manufacturer Carson
Category Trailers
Subcategory Car Hauler Trailer
Model California Carhauler 6.5x16' Tandem Axle Trailer in Norco, CA
Class Trailer
Dimensions
Overall Length 20'
Overall Height 3'
Overall Width 8.5
Interior Length 16'
Interior Width 6.5 FOOT
Weight 1700#
Carrying Capacity 5000#
Gross Vehicle Wt Rating Gvwr 7000#
Body
Frame ANGLE FREAME WITH C-CHANNEL TONGUE.
Floor STEEL, OPEN IN CENTER
Electrical
Electrical 4-FLAT PLUG
Operational
Tilt Bed NO
Loading Style REAR LOADING
Suspension SPRING
Axles 3500#
Brakes 10" ELECTRIC
Wheels 15"
Jack 2000#
Coupler 2"
2021 Carson California Carhauler 6.5x16' Tandem Axle Trailer in Norco, CA

Price:$ 2,885.00
***********************************************************************************************************

Hmm.....This might be worth considering.

 

[33 IMP]

View attachment 1145142
Click here for larger image
View attachment 1145143
View attachment 1145144
Specifications
General
Stock Number CALL FOR AVAILABILITY
Condition New
Year 2021
Manufacturer Carson
Category Trailers
Subcategory Car Hauler Trailer
Model California Carhauler 6.5x16' Tandem Axle Trailer in Norco, CA
Class Trailer
Dimensions
Overall Length 20'
Overall Height 3'
Overall Width 8.5
Interior Length 16'
Interior Width 6.5 FOOT
Weight 1700#
Carrying Capacity 5000#
Gross Vehicle Wt Rating Gvwr 7000#
Body
Frame ANGLE FREAME WITH C-CHANNEL TONGUE.
Floor STEEL, OPEN IN CENTER
Electrical
Electrical 4-FLAT PLUG
Operational
Tilt Bed NO
Loading Style REAR LOADING
Suspension SPRING
Axles 3500#
Brakes 10" ELECTRIC
Wheels 15"
Jack 2000#
Coupler 2"
2021 Carson California Carhauler 6.5x16' Tandem Axle Trailer in Norco, CA

Price:$ 2,885.00
***********************************************************************************************************

Hmm.....This might be worth considering.

Considering the current climate, that looks like a heck of a deal. You will have to personalise it for your needs. (Winch, box, tiedowns, etc.

 

[70chall440]

Trailer scams are all the rage now, a friend of mine was looking for a trailer and answered a number of ads and after some research found out they were all scams. If it seems like a "deal" be very careful.

I bought an Olympia 16' 7000lb open trailer back around 05 and its been a good trailer. I added a number of things such as tie downs, a winch, extended ramps, LED lights and most recently removable fenders (actually the top halves of the fenders). I really wanted a tilt trailer but just can't justify it.

I have hauled quite a few B bodies and E bodies on my trailer and yes they (the B bodies) do hang off the rear a little but it isn't a big deal. Actually it makes tying them down in the rear a lot easier.

 

[F4R/T]

The only thing that concerns me is there isn’t much other than the channel iron from the front of the trailer to the top of the tongue. I like to see a plate across minimum or a plate and a nice heavy C channel tiring both parts of the A together. Every trailer wreck I’ve seen like that the bend there bad .. If they’re built with a plate it may help. IMO Silly question why do I see so many new trailers without the jack foot? Optional ?

 

[747mopar]

I agree with F4R/T, that tung looks chinsy, also probably the first trailer I've ever seen where they use smooth steel plating.. they're always diamond plate? That would be awful slick with some wet tires.

 

[ckessel]

If you get the Carson, check out the electrical. Last one I saw it was really crude. You might get better tires for it too as they are usually cheap junk.

 

[Nevada dan]

GI have a Carson dovetail with the metal deck, it’s paid for it self over and over I’ve hauled so much with it, my friends have used it, but if you get one first thing you want to do is pack the bearings, I bought mine new 2 of the bearings were too loose the other 2 were to tight and none of them had enough grease had to do some wiring upgrades and took those cheap tires off and put some 10 ply bias tires on, been hauling vehicles for over 15 years now without having to touch a thing on it, oh I also added D rings for extra tie downs , you can’t have too many of them

 

[patrick66]

Gotta mention tires here - NEVER operate a trailer with P-rated passenger car tires!!! EVER! You will have a failure with P-rated tires, guaranteed! Even LT-rated light truck tires are a bad idea. Whether tandem-axle or single-axle, always run trailer-rated tires, either bias or radial (I prefer bias-ply in this case!) with an eight-ply or higher rating. On the trailer I had that was stolen six years ago, it had a set of Korean-made 700-15 10-ply bias trailer tires that were the best trailer tire I had ever used. From 2000 to 2015, I had put a bit over 130K miles worth of road under my hauler, and went through only two sets of tires in that time. Bias-plies are far less prone to sidewall cracking and just falling apart the way radials do when exposed to long periods of sunshine and ozone. They have a sturdier sidewall that is strong and resists curbing; and are just a better overall trailer tire, IMO.

 

[70chall440]

I look at most car trailers as a blank canvass from which I can turn into the trailer I want they are simple pieces of equipment and lend themselves will to being altered. I've used some pretty sketchy trailers over the years but they all seem to get the job done.

My trailer is rated at 7K and I hauled a 6000 lb bobcat on it, that trailer got it done but definitely didn't like it much.

 

[Kern Dog]

The only thing that concerns me is there isn’t much other than the channel iron from the front of the trailer to the top of the tongue. I like to see a plate across minimum or a plate and a nice heavy C channel tiring both parts of the A together.

What if a man welded some sheet over this area like I depicted here?

 

[patrick66]

^^^ Easy! ^^^ I don't know why you'd want to do that, necessarily. If I were to add metal to that example, it would be along the length of the trailer cargo length. A full floor enhances strength and usability - an open floor is useless for anything but something that rolls. If I were to "fix" the tongue area, I'd weld up a length of "C"-channel midway across the tongue (L to R), then install a HD 10K# jack with landing gear and a wide foot there, and delete that weak-assed POS tongue jack it has now. Delete that, and you also now have tailgate access to your tow vehicle. That is a horrible place to mount the trailer jack.

With a 78" width between fenderwells (standard for a car hauler is 82"), you limit yourself to what you can haul. No front over-run bar, either. Easy to roll right off the front of the hauler, and that makes for a bad day in itself.

No side rails along the frame edge (extending out the sides, NOT above like a utility trailer!) no square tie-down pockets or "D"-rings; hell, only one on the sides that I see at all! No recessed lighting...this is a very cheaply-made unit.

Flat metal instead of diamond-tread for the area where a vehicle rolls, is a perfect example of a poorly-thought-out build design. If I were still selling trailers, this is an example of what would NOT be on my lot! The trailer in the background has some of the features I mentioned - a set-back tongue jack, more tie-down points, and an overrun bar up front

 

[Kern Dog]

See, this is the expertise that I need. I don't have the experience to know what is good and what is cheap.

^^^ Easy! ^^^ I don't know why you'd want to do that, necessarily. If I were to add metal to that example, it would be along the length of the trailer cargo length. A full floor enhances strength and usability - an open floor is useless for anything but something that rolls. If I were to "fix" the tongue area, I'd weld up a length of "C"-channel midway across the tongue (L to R), then install a HD 10K# jack with landing gear and a wide foot there, and delete that weak-assed POS tongue jack it has now. Delete that, and you also now have tailgate access to your tow vehicle. That is a horrible place to mount the trailer jack.

With an 80" width between fenderwells (standard for a car hauler is 82"), you limit yourself to what you can haul. No front over-run bar, either. Easy to roll right off the front of the hauler, and that makes for a bad day in itself.

No side rails along the frame edge (extending out the sides, NOT above like a utility trailer!) no square tie-down pockets or "D"-rings; hell, only one on the sides that I see at all! No recessed lighting...this is a very cheaply-made unit.

Flat metal instead of diamond-tread for the area where a vehicle rolls, is a perfect example of a poorly-thought-out build design. If I were still selling trailers, this is an example of what would NOT be on my lot!

The trailer jack so close to the tongue is a poor placement. I didn't notice that.
Smooth metal for the deck does look cheap and does not inspire confidence. I've been considering wood anyway.
The front run over bar is something that I have considered as well. Some cars have spoilers that make that bar almost pointless. Mine is more cosmetic than functional since it sits up so high.

 

[patrick66]

See, this is the expertise that I need. I don't have the experience to know what is good and what is cheap.



The trailer jack so close to the tongue is a poor placement. I didn't notice that.
Smooth metal for the deck does look cheap and does not inspire confidence. I've been considering wood anyway.
The front run over bar is something that I have considered as well. Some cars have spoilers that make that bar almost pointless. Mine is more cosmetic than functional since it sits up so high.

View attachment 1145393

Your Charger would be a very tight fit on that, width-wise. The example trailer would be OK for a Dart or Duster-sized car on it, or a large quad, perhaps.

I prefer a wood deck, as well. I used to haul tractors, pickups, cars, flagstone, palletized items and more. Loading in the rain or just a wet deck, steel floors are a lot more dangerous to both you and the load when loading/off-loading. A wood deck, along with multiple tiedown points along the sides and front, offered flexibility that isn't there with an all-steel deck. You'll get folks that swear by steel, others by wood. Most of that is simply personal preference. Granted, you need to replace a wood deck periodically, based on usage, how the trailer is stored, and other criteria; and whether you use pine or oak as the decking material.

 

[patrick66]

Oh, and the fact our example has an ANGLE-iron frame and not 4" or 5" "C"-channel frame, and there are NO brakes!!! Even more reason to run quickly from something like that! Most states require at least one axle have brakes on a tandem. Some go by weight - any trailer over 3,000# must have them. I can't believe the nanny state that is California, doesn't require trailer brakes on something that is 7,000K# GVW! Wow.

 

[Kern Dog]

Oh, and the fact our example has an ANGLE-iron frame and not 4" or 5" "C"-channel frame, and there are NO brakes!!! Even more reason to run quickly from something like that! Most states require at least one axle have brakes on a tandem. Some go by weight - any trailer over 3,000# must have them. I can't believe the nanny state that is California, doesn't require trailer brakes on something that is 7,000K# GVW! Wow.

The description does list 10" electric brakes but also shows a 4 pin electrical plug. I don't know how that would work.

 

[Kern Dog]

There is no urgency to buy. I’ve wanted a trailer for years and kept putting it off since I don’t have a dedicated race car and I only part out a car or two per year. I like to buy unneeded luxuries like this with what I call “free money."... cash earned by selling parts or small side jobs.
I am still amazed st the variance in pricing.

 

[33 IMP]

That trailer jack placement is just using the standard location that is a part of a universal ball mount on the tongue.
Mine had a swivel mount that worked very well..... till i forgot to swivel it one day, and i bottomed out going out my (fairly steep) driveway. The winch box placement makes its use impossible, so im stuck with the jack mount where it is. The problem is, it has to be removed to go in or out of my driveway, it wont retract enough to not bottom out. I hope i dont forget to remove it some day.
As to some of tbe rest..... i just welded a piece of 2"angle on the end of the rails as a stop. Works perfect.
Also, i did add a filler panel between the rails, at the back. I was carrying a very small car, with a very narrow rear, and very wide tires. Without the filler panel, half of the fourteen inch slicks would have been in space. Welded in 1/8" steel panel, problem solved.
Mine is a fourteen foot bed, with a 62 b-body on it (still could go forward six inches or so.) This is how much hangs over the back. Has never given me a moment of worry.


Edit: if you look at my tongue, you can see that is double stacked tube on the sides, plus a center tube (where the swivel mount jack was, you can see the scar) i would guess my tounge is five to ten times stronger than that carson. But then, as others have said, a trailer is a blank canvas to build the way you want or need.

 

[Fury Man Van]

I'm looking to buy a car hauler trailer. I have a habit of finding derelict or classic cars and have rented dollies and trailers for far too long.
There are a LOT of options so I am trying to make sense of all of it.
I will be towing with my 2007 Ram 1500 regular cab 2wd truck. Maybe on rare occasions, I'd use my 75 W200 Power Wagon.
I would prefer a used trailer but am open to whatever I can find. I am not in a hurry but I would like to have one as soon as I can find something that fits my needs.
I have no interest in buying another truck to tow with.
A buddy has tried to sell me his cobbled trailer and I have been as gentle as I can in telling him that I want something bigger. I want one sturdy enough to haul a B body or even a pickup truck if need be. It would be stupid to buy a 14 or 16 footer and then need to rent or borrow a longer one for a bigger car.
The ones I see with wood decks are cheaper but I think I want a steel deck. The dovetail design looks appealing. Electric brakes are cheaper than hydraulic. Are they good enough?
I'd like stake pockets so I could use the trailer for more than just cars.

Who is willing to chime in with some thoughts?

This is a 16ft Triple Crown with electric brakes on 1 axels with a Cbody as you can see plenty of room and I have another photo