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Car wont start

I'm curious as to why no pictures.
 
Hey gentleman sorry for the confusion on the engine. It has a pick up coil and a reluctor which I did replace and there was still no fire to the engine. On top of that car is back to not starting from the key. I accidently ran into the side of the door and left a dent and there was a big storm the other night I dont know if either one of those is the reason but the ignition didnt start up from the bypass with the screwdriver(it cranked and turnover but didnt fire). To be straight honest with you I am really pissed off about this car in generall because the whole reason I bought this car from the start for the price I paid was because It was running. The engine is the 75 4 barrel ramcharger 440 with a pickup coil and reluctor. Parts I have replaced ballast resistor, pick up coil, reluctor. I did replace the ignition coil once but I am starting to wonder if that one went bad because the electrical devices are saying power is going into the ignition coil but not out of it. Anyways and other things that would not cause it to start up? Bad ground and what are ways I can check if my ground is good and signs that it is good?
 
Dominic Torreto said:
Hey gentleman sorry for the confusion on the engine. It has a pick up coil and a reluctor which I did replace and there was still no fire to the engine. On top of that car is back to not starting from the key. I accidently ran into the side of the door and left a dent and there was a big storm the other night I dont know if either one of those is the reason but the ignition didnt start up from the bypass with the screwdriver(it cranked and turnover but didnt fire). To be straight honest with you I am really pissed off about this car in generall because the whole reason I bought this car from the start for the price I paid was because It was running. The engine is the 75 4 barrel ramcharger 440 with a pickup coil and reluctor. Parts I have replaced ballast resistor, pick up coil, reluctor. I did replace the ignition coil once but I am starting to wonder if that one went bad because the electrical devices are saying power is going into the ignition coil but not out of it. Anyways and other things that would not cause it to start up? Bad ground and what are ways I can check if my ground is good and signs that it is good?
Click to expand...

Clean your bulkhead connections for grins and giggles. That would be the mass of wires that connect to the firewall. Remove them....spray metal contacts with electronic cleaner and brush the metal contacts with a toothbrush then reclean with electronic contact cleaner. If you have dielectric grease put that on the contacts as well before reassembly.

With respect to being pissed at the car. Remember, this isnt a new car. Often times these cars can require a lot of attention to keep in running condition. Even when these cars were new they required a fair amount of attention. No computers back in the day to keep them tuned. Its all part of the hobby. If you want a largely maintenance free vehicle go buy a new car instead. Or... embrace the hobby, do lots of reading and learn how your car functions and most of all... have patience. I realize electrical problems can be overwhelming and on these old mopars the electrical gremlins are particularly entertaining (frustrating) at times.
 
moparstuart said:
Thats why i stated way earlier in the other thread we need picture of your engine , the wiring , the distibutor and the fire wall . Oh and the middle video above shows you what points look like right on the front of it .
Click to expand...

second this, put up some pictures. general engine compartment pictures and then move in for some more detailed shots of distributor and any wiring you have questions about. battery terminals and the bulkhead connector and relay on the firewall too. And if you feel like it, shots of the whole care. I don't see any pictures of the car in any of your posts
 
I also told him way back to clean the bulk head , 90 % of the time that solves the key issue also after cleaning it up put dielectric grease on the bulk head connector . THey get wet and i'm sure the rain store has caused this again .
 
Pops1967GTX said:
Its time to trouble shoot this problem. You need spark/ air/ fuel. So don't replace anymore parts. Reluctor has a air grap.
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X2

NUMBER ONE. Turn key to "run" and hook meter to key side of ballast and battery positive. You should read VERY little voltgae, less than .4 (4 tenths of one volt or LESS)

NUMBER TEU. Hook meter to coil + and batter + Crank engine using the KEY. You must use the KEY for this test. Again, you are hoping for a small reading, the lower the better, and not over a very few tenths of one volt

NUMBA THA-REE Remove all connectors from the ignition, ECU, ballast, distributor. Work them in/ out and "feel" for how tight they are.

Insert your meter into the distributor harness connector, and measure ohms Report reading back

With your meter still hooked to distributor, put meter on low AC volts and crank engine. Distributor should generate 1V AC

Carefully examine reluctor and picup for debri, shavings, and strike damage. Obtain a non-magetic feeler which is .008" (inches not mm) and set the reluctor to pickup coil gap. Check carefully that the reluctor does not strike the pickup coil.

NUMBA FOW_AR Remove the ECU, file / grind the mounting bolt area to bare on both body and ECU and remount. Use toothed lock washers, and it does NOT hurt to apply an extra ground wire to one of the mounting bolts and run over to an engine bolt.

Hook up system. Turn key to run and check coil NEG with a light or meter. This point should be "low" that is 6V or so on coil + but much less on coil NEG. If coil neg is high, recheck ground on ECU, and if still high, replace ECU.

When you check for cranking spark, and get none, USE THE KEY, not jumpering the starter relay. Cranking with the key engages the bypass circuit and supplies hotter voltage to the system

NUMBA FY-YIVE Another thing to try is make up a nice big long clip lead, and jumper (hot wire) from the coil + to a battery connection. Don't leave this on for long. You can now jumper the starter relay to crank if you wish, and should get a good spark out of the coil.

As usual, check the ballast resistor.
 
Update gentleman once again I am sorry for the confusion this ignition is 100 percent an electronic ignition which you guys probably already knew. The car before the ignition from the key stopped was only getting power to the ignition coil when the key was cranking. When the key was in the on position no power went to the ignition coil(if this helps in the trouble shoot). Also, guys I will be posting up pictures it is just issues with my computer and camera but give me a week and I will have a 2 minute youtube video link to finally get this badboy going again. Thanks to all in my struggle.
 
Dominic Torreto said:
Is there suppose to be a ground wire on the ignition control module?
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The ECU is case ground, meaning it needs to be bolted down securely to what it is bolted to. either firewall or fender. there may have been a ground wire run to one of the ecu mounting bolts. Is that what you mean?
 
You said you replaced the pickup and reluctor. Did you set the air gap? There IS a spec for it. I always simply fold a regular piece of paper in half and use that. The air gap is not critical, BUT if it is too wide, the distributor will not fire. Whatever you use, it must be NON magnetic. A brass feeler gauge is actually the right tool.
 
Will the engine start with a steady 12V to the coil, off of a known good 12V power source and run? I see what you're saying, that the car has 12V on the CRANK position of the ignition switch but does not during the ON position. Run a constant 12V source to the coil (one that has 12V with key ON and during CRANK) and that would be a good way to troubleshoot your power issues, taking the ignition key power source out of the equation. Factory wiring can also sometimes be to blame, remember, you are working on a 40 year old car with a 40 year old wiring harness.. I had a similar issue with an MSD ignition box. All the "key driven" 12V ignition sources did not supply 12V while the starter was engaged (9V or so), but were 12V sources while the key was in the ON position. The ignition box would not function, and I had to run two 12V power sources to the box (one to initially start up and turn off the box with a toggle) and the main (12V +) wire to the battery for constant operation.
 
RustyRatRod said:
You said you replaced the pickup and reluctor. Did you set the air gap? There IS a spec for it. I always simply fold a regular piece of paper in half and use that. The air gap is not critical, BUT if it is too wide, the distributor will not fire. Whatever you use, it must be NON magnetic. A brass feeler gauge is actually the right tool.
Click to expand...

I did the spec 0.08 with a gauge. As for the ignition control module I cleaned the surface were it bolted on(fender) and tightened it down. Still nothing. I ordered an ignition control module. I am going to do the testing today hopefully it all goes well.
 
Dominic Torreto said:
I did the spec 0.08 with a gauge. As for the ignition control module I cleaned the surface were it bolted on(fender) and tightened it down. Still nothing. I ordered an ignition control module. I am going to do the testing today hopefully it all goes well.
Click to expand...

I hope thats a typo and you really mean .008
 
it was a type up error. I did the correct measurement. I did replace the neutral safety switch and the car still wont crank at the key. Ignition control module should be showing up in a couple of days.
 
Even though the car wont crank at the key. Lets say the ignition control module in my car was the problem. Could I start it with the bypass or is that not possible(bypass with the screwdriver on the starter solenoid).
 
Ok, i think you need to deal with the starter issue first. You may find that both issues are related. Do you have the key in the run position when you jump the starter solenoid to crank the engine? Power to the ignition coil comes from the ignition switch. Just like it does for the starter. you really need to concentrate on getting the starter to work with the key and then deal with any other spark issues after that
 
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