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Car wont start

Dominic Torreto said:
Even though the car wont crank at the key. Lets say the ignition control module in my car was the problem. Could I start it with the bypass or is that not possible(bypass with the screwdriver on the starter solenoid).
Click to expand...

When you start a mopar by jumpering the starter relay, the coil voltage goes through the ballast resistor just like when running.

What this means is, the starter pulls down the battery voltage during crank
With the ignition receiving this low battery voltage MINUS the normal drop through the resistor, you really get a weak spark (or not at all)

Two ways to get a hot spark for start:

1 Use the key to crank. This engages the "bypass" circuit (IGN2) inside the switch, which feeds hot battery power directly out to the coil+ side of the ballast

2 If you must crank jumpering the relay, make up a heavy clip lead and clip one end to the coil +. Clip the other lead to "battery" such as the starter relay stud. This, then will also give you good hot coil voltage to start.
 
Hemi Rebel said:
Ok, i think you need to deal with the starter issue first. You may find that both issues are related. Do you have the key in the run position when you jump the starter solenoid to crank the engine? Power to the ignition coil comes from the ignition switch. Just like it does for the starter. you really need to concentrate on getting the starter to work with the key and then deal with any other spark issues after that
Click to expand...

Yup and I think its got to be the bulk head connector ? or the starter relay , or the starter solenoid on the starter its self ..

BTW the chinese starter relays are junk we just got three news ones from NAPA and they were bad right out of the box ..
 
"BTW the chinese starter relays are junk we just got three news ones from NAPA and they were bad right out of the box .." aint that the truth! so is the starters, bought only two to get one that finally did work. I didn't look to see where it was made but probably a safe bet. Hard to find good parts at places like Auto Zoned out.
 
Ron 73 said:
"BTW the chinese starter relays are junk we just got three news ones from NAPA and they were bad right out of the box .." aint that the truth! so is the starters, bought only two to get one that finally did work. I didn't look to see where it was made but probably a safe bet. Hard to find good parts at places like Auto Zoned out.
Click to expand...

yup this was on a hemi car and he got two bad starters also , NAPA is usually great stuff , better then oreillys or adavnced or auto zone . but even Napa failed us this time .
 
moparstuart said:
, NAPA is usually great stuff , better then oreillys or adavnced or auto zone . but even Napa failed us this time .
Click to expand...

I have to disagree. O'Really sells many of the same parts as NAPA, and I can get a vet (military) discount

When I tossed the used 360 in the 67 about a year ago, I bought what should have been quality fuel hose from NAPA. This car has not been driven all that much, and up here it does get hot, but not for long. mid July -- late August, and the heat is all over. That crap NAPA fuel hose is already starting to harden up and show serious cracking.

I went to O'Really and got a brand name injection hose (Goodyear?) and beat NAPA's price all to hell.

Precision U joints
Wix filters
Felpro gaskets
They may/ may not stock Moog, but can order
Dorman BRASS soft plugs -- in stock

Just to name a few. They do fall down on tools "they ain't got much"

When I wanted Moog front end parts SPECIFICALLY the local NAPA told me they could order them ONLY if they "were unable" to get their house brand. I asked him, "what if that's not what the customer WANTS?"
 
We will just have to agree to disagree the as I have my Commercial account ( for my auto repair shop ) with Oreilly because they are the only auto parts store here in Odessa missouri , Lets just say they are less then stellar in parts and services for us .
 
Update The ignition contol module did not fix the problem and did not fire. I am going to replace the starter relay hoping that would at least fix the car to crank and turnover at the key. Maybe this was the problem the whole time. Could you guys tell me any cases throughout the years the starter relay did not allow the car to fire but still turnover and the starter relay being the reason to cause that? Also what other things could cause the car not to turnover at the key?
 
Okay I need you guys to help me square this thing away. Awnser these questions straight as can be(to the point). I replaced ignition coil, ballast resistor, pick up coil, reluctor, ignition control module and neutral safety switch.

If car is cranking but not firing Starter is obviously good right?

If car is not cranking at key could it be the starter relay?

What other things could cause it not to start at the key?

Could somebody tell me where all the main grounds are at?
 
also when you turn key at ignition two soft clicks happen sometimes one. If you do the bypass with screwdriver it cranks but from the key 2 clicks. Could this be an ignition switch and also is the ignition compenents any of them in the gauges?
 
It is not clear to me if you have actually run any of the tests suggested

1 When you crank the engine by bypassing the starter relay, the resistor bypass circuit in the ignition switch is NOT active, which means that you have low starting voltage to the coil.

ONE way around this if you have either breaker points or a Mopar electronic (ECU) ignition is to temporarily clip a jumper lead from a battery source (such as starter relay stud) to the coil POSITIVE terminal. Do not run the car this way for long, and do not let the car sit with the jumper connected for more than about 1 minute

2 Troubleshooting the starter/ relay is easy, all you need is a test lamp and maybe a jumper (clip lead)

NOTICE that the starter relay has TWO push on connectors:

mopar-53-54-55-56-57-58-59-imperial-starter-relay-new_170579962271.jpg


You must first identify which wire comes from the ignition switch. With everything hooked up, probe the rear of the connectors one at a time and see which one lights when you twist the key to start. If they both light, disconnect either one and re---test.

LEAVE only the one which lights hooked up.

If you can see the colors on the two wires, the "yellowish" wire should be the one which is hot in start

Now take a jumper lead and GROUND the OTHER relay push on terminal. In other words the one from which you removed the other wire. THIS WIRE should head down towards the transmission, IE the neutral safety switch

NOW be careful and make SURE the car is in park or neutral. The engine should crank, and will crank in any gear.

IF THIS happens, you have a bad neutral safety switch, bad wiring from the switch to the relay, or something wrong in the transmission or linkage (out of adjustment)

If the engine does NOT crank, double check.

Probe the yellow push on wire --should be hooked to the relay, and confirm it is "HOT" in "start." If so, make sure the OTHER push on terminal is GROUNDED. IF this is so, and the starter will not operate, then the relay is BAD.
 
Do the checks suggested above, then come back with the results for anyone to further help you with your situation. We want to get your car running, but cannot if you don't post feed back and results of the tests provided. Why just replace parts? If you believe the starter relay is the culprit, they are less than $10 at nearly ANY automotive store. You may be trying to place a bandage on a broken bone, or a sling on a paper cut!
 
Dominic Torreto said:
also when you turn key at ignition two soft clicks happen sometimes one. If you do the bypass with screwdriver it cranks but from the key 2 clicks. Could this be an ignition switch and also is the ignition compenents any of them in the gauges?
Click to expand...

What type of 'click'? Is it a sound as if the starter is "attempting" to engage but only makes a single bump? Had this same issue, and the starter would engage after six or seven attempts or turns of key. Turned out to be a bad starter. Is this your problem? For less than $10, a starter relay is a VERY SIMPLE and INEXPENSIVE fix.. I would replace it, even if it wasn't the problem..
 
SO theoritically if the starter relay doesnt fix this problem. Should I turn to the ignition switch? Anyways I am going to get the relay Friday. I post up whether it worked or not.
 
Don't change any more Parts .....You can jump either the starter relay or ignition switch if they are bad to start your vehicle. 440RR has given you many alternatives to test electrical system..........Part changing will not reveal your problem, if you do not test your system......Go back & step by step to eliminate each section of your starting/starting system.....
 
Pops1967GTX said:
Don't change any more Parts .....You can jump either the starter relay or ignition switch if they are bad to start your vehicle. 440RR has given you many alternatives to test electrical system..........Part changing will not reveal your problem, if you do not test your system......Go back & step by step to eliminate each section of your starting/starting system.....
Click to expand...

A new starter relay will give someone peace of mind, regardless if it is currently functional or not; and is inexpensive enough to not break the bank. I would personally rather spend $10 on a new relay, than be stuck at a car show "x" amount of miles away and looking like a fool when i'm taking off my hood and pulling out a screw driver to jump it over..
 
Pops1967GTX said:
Don't change any more Parts .....You can jump either the starter relay or ignition switch if they are bad to start your vehicle. 440RR has given you many alternatives to test electrical system..........Part changing will not reveal your problem, if you do not test your system......Go back & step by step to eliminate each section of your starting/starting system.....
Click to expand...

Yeah your entirely true but I need to get the key to crank and that has stopped recently but yes once I get the key to crank the engine I will do the tests.
 
I bought the starter relay and it did not fix the problem. I did do some of the tests. Here is the results and after you guys read the results I would like to know from the couple of tests given what probably isnt the problem(example starter solenoid, grounds, ignition coil, etc). I have been very busy this last weekend but I am going to do the rest of the tests this weekend and upload a video on youtube(I will give you guys the link). On test number one the ballast resistor read 0.4. On test number two can I use the key even if it isnt actually cranking? It shoots to a 1v when in cranking position, then shoots to zero after 1/3 of a second. For test number 3 in the run position the ohms were going crazy(the meter was blinking for 0s) I will youtube video that for you guys on the weekend. In the cranking postion it did 0.1 . Quick question about the starter solenoid but if it can crank with the bypass that means the starter solenoid is good right?
 
Also guys, I really do appreciate your time and effort to help me out. I wish there was a way to pay you guys back some way but thanks to all.
 
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