Chassis dyno sheet....something isn't right
- Thread starter justavillain
- Start date
I'm gonna have to disagree with this...we had a somewhat-built street 440, dyno at the engine shop at 511hp and make 390 on the rollers, with p/s, a/c and a nothing-special 727..but back on the subject, the OPs popping and breaking up as the RPMs increase indicate, he gots a problem! It will no doubt turn a higher number if it's able to reach the peak range which it doesn't look like it is currently.
justavillain
Well-Known Member
I'm working on getting a new distributor. I figure it pretty much needs to be a high end unit. I do have an oem 75 unit in the garage off the donor block
My trans is JUNK also it was full of metal when I pulled the pan, I'm planning on a new one over winter.
The only accessory I have is power steering, and what ever draws off the alternator
My trans is JUNK also it was full of metal when I pulled the pan, I'm planning on a new one over winter.
The only accessory I have is power steering, and what ever draws off the alternator
Last edited:
Cudadude2
Well-Known Member
You said your rev limiter is set to 5500, they tent to come in early.
Don’t get hung up on Dyno numbers. I just did my car s couple weeks ago and it came in at 334 hp. This is a car that has gone 12,00 at 114. Track test will give you a real life relation to that number.
Don’t get hung up on Dyno numbers. I just did my car s couple weeks ago and it came in at 334 hp. This is a car that has gone 12,00 at 114. Track test will give you a real life relation to that number.
justavillain
Well-Known Member
I'm not too mad about the number but it is under power, but like a lot of people said it's cutting out.
I can up the rev limiter but about 1000 rips early is pretty different than what the 6AL says. I just got the tach converter box so I can get that wired up and see when it is actually cutting out.
I can up the rev limiter but about 1000 rips early is pretty different than what the 6AL says. I just got the tach converter box so I can get that wired up and see when it is actually cutting out.
justavillain
Well-Known Member
A little update on the ol Fumblebee. I think I may have been down 1 maybe 2 cylinders during this run.
I pulled my plugs to do a check over on the whole thing and rejet the carb. And 1 had the center electrode wiped ( but the ground strap was starting to show signs of wear too ). And 1 had the center insulator cracked and chipped. No clue how that happened. The cylinder still has good compression so it doesn't seem hurt.
The cap and rotor seem to be working well but I'm still going to swap out the dizzy with an MSD One ASAP.
But it seems to be running well I went up 6 jets secondaries, 4 on the primaries, dropped the Power Valve, and it pulled a decent time in the 1/4 12.48@110 through the lights before it got hot that was my best run.
I pulled my plugs to do a check over on the whole thing and rejet the carb. And 1 had the center electrode wiped ( but the ground strap was starting to show signs of wear too ). And 1 had the center insulator cracked and chipped. No clue how that happened. The cylinder still has good compression so it doesn't seem hurt.
The cap and rotor seem to be working well but I'm still going to swap out the dizzy with an MSD One ASAP.
But it seems to be running well I went up 6 jets secondaries, 4 on the primaries, dropped the Power Valve, and it pulled a decent time in the 1/4 12.48@110 through the lights before it got hot that was my best run.
BSB67
Well-Known Member
Nice.
My bet early was ignition. Chipped insulator could be a physical issue during gapping or detonation. Nothing the matter with a factory distributor in good condition. The 110 mph looks like about 400hp at the motor itself. Also with the correct converter, suspension, and tire 110 will support 12.0x ET.
Doug
Doug
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