Cold air intake idea.
- Thread starter greenmachine
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I know it's a Ford & all but some good math here too...
been done a long time ago
could do it with a big oval fresh-air cleaner like the Ramcharger or Air Grabbers had
pipe/ducting ( alum. 3"-4" pipe) it into the fresh air unit/'air-cleaner',
from the inside headlight buckets with a bell behind a screen
& use a piece of aluminum or thin steel to go around the outside of the base & top
still be able to use a filter in it for street driving, take it out for at the track & have a real ram air effect,
like the old Thunderbolts did, just better looking
I thought about doing that but I have a 6bbl scoop it's not needed
but if I had a car with a flatter hood that's how I'd do it
if any of that make any sense,
not photos just **** in my brain I never did build
use the top & base & a flat piece of thin steel or alum
with simple 90* angle tabs attached top & bottom & use dzeus fasteners
maybe to attach it around the exterior, so it is still serviceable
you could still run an oval air cleaner on the street
I was going to use a 3" K&N
DazeCars, True Ram Air (Thunderbolt Style)
Ford, Galaxie, Mustang, ram air, Thunderbolt, home made
www.dazecars.com
been done a long time ago
could do it with a big oval fresh-air cleaner like the Ramcharger or Air Grabbers had
pipe/ducting ( alum. 3"-4" pipe) it into the fresh air unit/'air-cleaner',
from the inside headlight buckets with a bell behind a screen
& use a piece of aluminum or thin steel to go around the outside of the base & top
still be able to use a filter in it for street driving, take it out for at the track & have a real ram air effect,
like the old Thunderbolts did, just better looking
I thought about doing that but I have a 6bbl scoop it's not needed
but if I had a car with a flatter hood that's how I'd do it
if any of that make any sense,
not photos just **** in my brain I never did build
use the top & base & a flat piece of thin steel or alum
with simple 90* angle tabs attached top & bottom & use dzeus fasteners
maybe to attach it around the exterior, so it is still serviceable
you could still run an oval air cleaner on the street
I was going to use a 3" K&N
j-c-c-62
Well-Known Member
When building components near exhaust or say hot brakes, I use a special HT epoxy that gets me near 400F deflection temps, I have never seen ester resins available in that range.
Of course, the HT epoxies are a lot pricier.
Tony Tee
Well-Known Member
Heres my 78 magnum with a home made dual snorkel to the radiator core support. mimicing the drivers side fresh air ducting. Mirroring the drivers side oem plastic duct was a pain.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
From what I read in the Race Car Engineering magazine awhile back, the best intake area was in the front by the lights or just under the hood edge. The used CFD to show various intake areas with colors showing temperature variations of the different configurations. The cowl wasn't bad but now what was initially thought. The worst was having a hood set up to vent the hot air from the cooling systems/underhood heat etc combined with a cowl induction setup. The hot air contaminated the cool charge massively. Same goes on the usual open element that many of us use without any ducting. On my setup, I was looking into the front style with modded light buckets, with ducting outside of the lamp to catch air, plus getting the light bezels 3D printed with larger light openings to feed the ducts but not affect the basic look. After looking at a dudes 64 to imagine routing etc, plus added in the fact I would have to totally redo the core support I made from scratch, I did what you see.
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