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Disc Brake conversion

Chryco69

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Since my last post about disc brake conversion inquiry, I got a lot of cry babys that just wanted to post articles or links. I have since received a few messages from members who asked if I found what works, because they are confused also.

Maybe we could create a tech thread on this subject without posting links of tech articles that drag on. Just a basic primitive, this is what is required thread.
 
At the risk of making myself unpopular, I'm going to chime in on this.

I've read through a number of forum posts (this site and others) describing drum - disk conversions. Each and every post has one tidbit of info the other guy left out. It's that critical piece of info that either confuses the issue or steers you away from a potential problem. It's leaving out that fact if you use this kit or those salvage parts you're going need to super glue the fleefer valve to the muffler bearings and buy an oversized gibblet to install halfway between the brake pedal and and wishbone. And if you don't do that, and do the super secret west Indian rain dance, your brakes won't work right.


So I guess I'm saying I agree with Chryco69 in spirit. Keep it simple, say what works and what doesn't, share your knowledge and leave out the BS comments, please.
 
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I used scarebird because, as mentioned by one of the 'crybabies' on your prior post, all parts are stocked at NAPA.

Btw, just to be sure, I went back and read your 2 prior posts on brakes...

Want some real simple advice? They dont make the OEM stuff and you cant find it anywhere so you:

A) listen to the advice the 'crybabies' gave you already on how to piece a quality kit together from different years.

B) listen to the advice the 'crybabies' gave you already and go to summit and search out a nice aftermarket kit

C) listen to the advice one of the senior vendor 'crybabies' gave you already and buy his well put together aftermarket kit.

D) listen to the advice the 'crybabies' gave you already and upgrade to better drums.

E) listen to the advice the 'crybabies' gave you already

F) you obviously dont know how to do it, so listen to the advice the 'crybabies' gave you already and READ AND EDUCATE YOUR IGNORANT SELF.

And please dont call these gentlemen crybabies, they've all helped you more than you deserve already and all you've done is cried like a baby.
 
No .. I'll tell you WAT




g007_citizen_kane_slow_clap.gif
 
i agree with ht413,dont start a post by calling names.many links people provide are very informative.we are here to learn from others,so show a little respect to them and you might be surprised by what you get back.
 
Damn!!! That is some funny chit!!!!
 
Sig: Selfish, disgusting, anti-social, bad influence, and a friend of the devil, seeks an intelligent young hard belly with large breasts to dance naked for my amusement.
"He likes big boobs and I cannot lie. You cry-babies can't deny..."
 
I'm not sure I know what you want to do. You really only have three options: leave as is, source after market, or source original.

I plan on buy my brake conversion kit from Piratejack. I currently have manual drums. I will convert to power disc, which will run about $500. Comes with the booster, spindles, calipers, brake pads, proportioning valve, hubs and master cylinder you'll need. pretty much everything you'll need. You can avoid the hassle by just buying a kit.
 
Just converted another 67 R/T with used set(almost new)...bought rotors complete with inner bearings/pads/hoses/caliphers/all mounting hardware/spindles. Manual brake car....dropped drums and spindles...installed all the bought parts and re-used the drum brake outer bearings. Dust caps deleted as the drum caps didn't fit the disc...no proportioning valve...no master cylinder swap...got a front end alignment and the system works great..as the last two before it....smoking deal...cost me 100 plus the alignment....not everyone gets a deal like this BUT...used spindles can be had for around a hundred and napa has all the rest for around 150 to 200. Just sold the 11 inch drums/brakes/etc.
 
At the risk of making myself unpopular, I'm going to chime in on this.

I've read through a number of forum posts (this site and others) describing drum - disk conversions. Each and every post has one tidbit of info the other guy left out. It's that critical piece of info that either confuses the issue or steers you away from a potential problem. It's leaving out that fact if you use this kit or those salvage parts you're going need to super glue the fleefer valve to the muffler bearings and buy an oversized gibblet to install halfway between the brake pedal and and wishbone. And if you don't do that, and do the super secret west Indian rain dance, your brakes won't work right.


So I guess I'm saying I agree with Chryco69 in spirit. Keep it simple, say what works and what doesn't, share your knowledge and leave out the BS comments, please.
Sometimes undersize gibblets work.
 
Many of us who like to experiment are willing to try new things just to see if they work. I did a conversion using 2006 crown vic dual piston calipers and 12" rotors. I designed the adapters myself and it uses the original drum spindles. I wanted newer parts that I can still get in any parts house. I still have to finish the installation with brake hoses and all of the other misc. items like getting the right master. The original crown vic master is 1.0625 so that will be my starting point. One feature is of this swap is you need to run at least a 16" wheel and the hat height limits wheel choices due to the caliper clearance.
If you are looking for a simple swap, Dr. Diff is one of the easier and more common ways to go. If you like to experiment, then the book by Andy F. has lots of ideas. I personally am a builder/experimenter so it was a fun project for me, I have around $300 in the final designed swap, but I also spent another couple of hundred in different combinations that I didn't use. Tim
 
I added disc brakes to my 71 Charger, but I used original disc brake parts (pin caliper type) from a 71 Charger. So no need to experiment, was able to buy the K-member with everything attached and just ordered replacement calipers, bearings, wheel seals and lines/MC.

In the process of tearing down my suspension to rebuild and add the disc brake parts.

Patrick
 
I have recently purchased a 70 RR that has 4 wheel power drum brakes and have been asking around to other Mopar owners who have done brake conversions and this is what I have found out. If you want to keep your stock 14" wheels you will need to go with a "stock" type disc setup. If you plan in going with 15" or larger wheels go with Wilwood. Quite a few Mopar owners I have talked to went with another brand of brake conversion kits and most either have changed over to Wilwood or are going to because of quality problems with the other kits......so I guess I am going to go with Wilwood.......hope this helps.
 
The issue is that there are many ways to accomplish this and that there is a diference of opinion with stongly held positions on how to do it with easily obtainable and fairly cheap parts.

There is no cut and dry answer.


This question reminds me of-

Why doesn't my computer work?

Can't you just tell me how to fix it without a bunch of technical details?
 
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