Distributor problem, if you have one please look.

[Mopar-Charger]

I didn't swap the condenser, I have an electronic ignition. Carb hasn't changed since i had it running before the oil problem about a week ago. Haven't ran it since.

 

[ckessel]

See if you can swap out some parts one at a time with some buddies. On those scorch marks that are on the rotor, if you see discolored plastic on the back side of the rotor you for sure have too much resistance in the wires and its grounding out.

 

[Mopar-Charger]

I'm using MSD spitfire plug wires. Is there a different brand or type I should use?

I still haven't swapped the rotor, i just put a new cap on.

 

[Mopar-Charger]

Now I'm thinking it is the carb? I'll get it running fine, i start to go and it almost feels like i have to give it gas to keep it alive? I let off the throttle and it almost dies. Now, if i go and adjust the carb it'll go back to idling fine, i drive it, works. Then it goes back and nearly stalls on me cruising 30 if i let off the gas.

 

[eldubb440]

carb may be full of crap........ pull the bowls an take a peek (or the lid if its an edelbrock)

 

[Mopar-Charger]

It's a holley, I rebuilt it about two months ago. I'll pull it next, but i just got it running good again? Timing had advanced 15 degrees between driving it and getting home. It's bolted down tightly.

 

[Shorthorse]

Be careful about jumping around with your trouble shooting (ignition/carb). Stay with the ignition until you feel it's correct. That was your first observation and you could see it wasn't good. Get a new rotor. The timing change of 15 degrees is problematic especially if the distributor was tight. Did you make sure to remove the vacuum hose when you checked the timing the second time? Also, check for a vacuum leak. That's the first sign of a car that won't idle.

 

[Mopar-Charger]

I'll order a new rotor, right now I have it idling strong. Scared to drive it because I don't want to run bad! So whatever is happening happens when the car is underway. So, vacuum possibly, and carb right?

 

[Shorthorse]

Good start. The issue is to resist the temptation of thinking that all of a sudden several things went wrong at the same time. Be patient. Like I said, you could see the issue with the ignition just by the looks of the old rotor. Install the new rotor and check your timing again. Set your initial timing without the vacuum hose on the distributor (be sure to plug the hose). Put the hose back on and rev the engine to observe the advance. If it's still won't run at low speeds, check for a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak will show itself when the car is at low RPM under a load. A check of the plugs can be an indication if they are white or a light color. I've taken a vacuum gauge with a long hose an snaked it through the hood and window and driven a car.

 

[ckessel]

Do a check for the vacume leak by spraying a little carb cleaner around the manifold where it connects to the heads, carb flange etc. Any change in engine speed, bingo, there is your leak. If you find there is crud in the carb, is it large debri or fine rust colored silt? There is NO filter made that will filter out rust in the fuel system. It will get by anything made and plug stuff up like you can't believe. One thing that it will not get by though is a magnet. On my cars I put magnets on the filters and in the tanks. Don't you just love troubleshooting? Frustrating but rewarding when you figure it out. One other free thing you can do is have the engine running with the hood open in a dark garage or at night away from any light source. If you see any corona from the ignition system you may have identified an area of issue.

 

[Mopar-Charger]

Do a check for the vacume leak by spraying a little carb cleaner around the manifold where it connects to the heads, carb flange etc. Any change in engine speed, bingo, there is your leak. If you find there is crud in the carb, is it large debri or fine rust colored silt? There is NO filter made that will filter out rust in the fuel system. It will get by anything made and plug stuff up like you can't believe. One thing that it will not get by though is a magnet. On my cars I put magnets on the filters and in the tanks. Don't you just love troubleshooting? Frustrating but rewarding when you figure it out. One other free thing you can do is have the engine running with the hood open in a dark garage or at night away from any light source. If you see any corona from the ignition system you may have identified an area of issue.

Haha very frustrating. I noticed two places where there was a vacuum leak. One was under the carb. and the second was in the front of the intake wehre the bottom touches the top of the block. I put some sealer in there to see that'll fix it, otherwise i'll be pulling the intake and redoing the gasket there. Waiting for it to dry, then i'll start her up again and see if she runs.

One of my spark plug wires had melted near the top. (damn headers) and it was arching for a while. swapped it now, see if theres any difference. I like the idea of magnets. I'll be putting one in my oil pan, next oil change. Anyone ever put them in the carb bowls? or wou;d that hold the floats down?

 

[Mopar-Charger]

Got her running, and it runs alright. Sounds like the spark is firing early? Car sat for about two weeks could fuel be bad? Or do i need to run a higher octane? i think the last batch was a mix between 89 and 93. Do i need to go higher?

 

[Shorthorse]

Probably not bad fuel with it only being two weeks old. Too much timing will result in pinging/knocking/predetonation when accelerating. A higher octane fuel will help but make sure your timing is right. That noise you hear is not good for your pistons & valves.

 

[Mopar-Charger]

If I back the timing off, it struggles to run.. too less of timing. Prior to the new heads I ran 89 once and felt the same thing. Same timing. Went to 93 and it went away. I just can't remember now if i put 93 or 89 last time i filled up.

That being said I have two more questions. The plugs are gaped at .05

Second thing is, when i torqued my heads with the new gaskets i torqued them to 95 foot lbs (1972-76 heads). Later to find they were 77 heads which needed 105 foot lbs. Could this different have affected my head gaskets?

Also, I used the same push rods. Is there a length difference between what the two heads require?

 

[Coronet 14]

Make sure the rotor isn't hitting the inside of the cap. Had that problem with mine

 

[Mopar-Charger]

Alright, found out the problem. I swapped the rotor and that clanking noise seemed to go away.

Second thing, with the pre ignition. I had it set 20 degrees initial. The previous timing chain was set 4 degrees advanced, so the mark i made was off. Put it back to around 10-12, seems to run fine. Little bit of a preignition still. Im hoping once i fill up the tank with 93 it will go away.

One last thing I noticed, when I put it in gear, she drops to about 500 RPMS. And my lights dim, and I'm not making positive power through the alternator. Is this a voltage regulator problem? I had the radio shut off and restart, then the tach was jumping between 1k to 2k but engine stayed at 800 RPMS.

 

[Shorthorse]

If I back the timing off, it struggles to run.. too less of timing. Prior to the new heads I ran 89 once and felt the same thing. Same timing. Went to 93 and it went away. I just can't remember now if i put 93 or 89 last time i filled up.

That being said I have two more questions. The plugs are gaped at .05

Second thing is, when i torqued my heads with the new gaskets i torqued them to 95 foot lbs (1972-76 heads). Later to find they were 77 heads which needed 105 foot lbs. Could this different have affected my head gaskets?

Also, I used the same push rods. Is there a length difference between what the two heads require?

If the knocking stops with 93 octane then that's what you'll need to use. You must have some high compression to need that. Also, head gaskets come in different thicknesses and that will make slight variations to compression ratio.
As for you torque numbers, 95 Ft/Lbs is accurate for iron heads with bolts (small block). Torque settings go up when using studs but I've never seen different specs for 77 heads. According to MyMopar.com they used the same head on a 360 from 77-86.
Your plug gap seems a little big. What type ignition are you running? Aftermarket ignition systems with high output coils like larger gaps like 50. If you're running a Mopar ignition, I'd cut it back to 35-40. I'm not convinced the plug gap has anything to do with the issues you are having.
Pushrod length and valve geometry can get very complicated. However changing from iron head to iron head, I doubt if there is an issue.

 

[Mopar-Charger]

If the knocking stops with 93 octane then that's what you'll need to use. You must have some high compression to need that. Also, head gaskets come in different thicknesses and that will make slight variations to compression ratio.
As for you torque numbers, 95 Ft/Lbs is accurate for iron heads with bolts (small block). Torque settings go up when using studs but I've never seen different specs for 77 heads. According to MyMopar.com they used the same head on a 360 from 77-86.
Your plug gap seems a little big. What type ignition are you running? Aftermarket ignition systems with high output coils like larger gaps like 50. If you're running a Mopar ignition, I'd cut it back to 35-40. I'm not convinced the plug gap has anything to do with the issues you are having.
Pushrod length and valve geometry can get very complicated. However changing from iron head to iron head, I doubt if there is an issue.

Hmm. My service manual said there was a difference in torque. I have the Mopar electronic ignition. I can't remember, but i believe my old plugs were 50. Not sure my compression, the bottom end is stock.

Anyways, I still need to check the resistance in my plug wires, I'll get my volt meter tomorrow. Had a problem with the alternator wire (the one that is held on by a nut) the nut wasn't snug and ended up burning through the O connecter. Right now I have the wire wrapped around the stud, and a nut tightened down on it. This might not be a problem, but who knows with mopars.

Also, I wanted to thank you for helping me out. I really appreciate it! Shorthorse!

 

[ckessel]

Lots of little issues can cause alot of fun and get you praticed for creative words. Did you use your old harmonic balancer? Check to see if the outer ring has moved in position to the inner hub. If its moved, your timing cannot be set. East way to check is pull all the plugs out, put in a positive stop into the #1, rotate the engine BY HAND clockwise till it hits the stop, mark the balancer to meet with 0 on the front cover, rotate it counter-clockwise till it hits again, mark it. Half way in btween those two marks is your spot. Where does yours end up?

 

[Shorthorse]

Lots of little issues can cause alot of fun and get you praticed for creative words. Did you use your old harmonic balancer? Check to see if the outer ring has moved in position to the inner hub. If its moved, your timing cannot be set. East way to check is pull all the plugs out, put in a positive stop into the #1, rotate the engine BY HAND clockwise till it hits the stop, mark the balancer to meet with 0 on the front cover, rotate it counter-clockwise till it hits again, mark it. Half way in btween those two marks is your spot. Where does yours end up?

Good idea. That might explain the 15 degree jump in timing mentioned earlier. I can't remember exactly but I remember somebody recently talking about their balancer. It was so bad they could turn it by hand.