Does 0,5" matter? :)

[rumblefish360]

I am just seeking advise from people who can say "been there, done that" and if there would be any reason for picking a 3" over the 2,5" for my particular (or similar) setup.

You asked for the BTDT people?

This is the deal.

In the video above, the engine is plus 600hp. What the muffler test shows is the limitations of the muffler tested. The limitation of max HP. While it is strictly limited to that engine, installing the muffler that made, let’s just say 550hp, would show little improvement on a higher horsepower engine. So it is mostly valid.

Anyone of those mufflers making over 500hp would suite your engine no matter the pipe size.

What it comes down to is mostly personal factors of outside sound, inside sound & fitting the system in. All the mufflers used are short case mufflers. Longer case mufflers will be quieter.

For my personal “Road bound DRIVER” vehicle I used the long case Dynomax Super Turbo muffler with tail pipes @ 2-1/2 inches. Also the power difference between the X & H pipe YOU will not ever feel on the top end.

If your worried about ever last HP, then a short case muffler like the Hooker Max Flow or the similar Dyno Max@ 3 inches is what you want.

Not overly concerned about max power but want to talk and listen to the radio, then the long case Dyno Max Super Turbo is your muffler. It is capable of the power you make.

Been there done that!

 

[Charger Dana]

It’s easy to fall into the just-in-case mode and contingency build everything, and assume bigger is better. I have bb TTI headers, dynomax mufflers and x pipe exhaust 3” on my 67 Charger 383 4 speed (runs 13.7s at 104 mph but has run 12s). It installs like a dream, even by yourself, and 67 chargers are generally a pain over the rear axle - I am a huge fan of TTI! That’s said I’d put 2.5” in if I did it again. 1/4” clearance to tank, springs when not running is “okay”, but you get some banging until you completely remove all movement in the exhaust.

I recommend 2.5”.

 

[Cranky]

No one runs straights? Man....and I think dadsbee was being a bit sarcastic with the back pressure comment lol

Does anyone make 2 3/4" pipe? Might be an option for those with just a bit over 500 hp.....?

 

[Wietse]

Previous exhaust was a 3" with 2 mufflers and 4"!! side pipes.
Speaking loud....

 

[moparedtn]

Previous exhaust was a 3" with 2 mufflers and 4"!! side pipes.
Speaking loud....

holy crap! Sewer pipes....

I like the DynoMax stuff also, even though those are glass packed. They're made well and I MUCH prefer
their sound to that of the more generic Flowmasters.
They remind me of the old Walker Red Line Z line of mufflers from long ago, so much so that I wonder
if they're related somehow? Walker used to make some seriously good quality stuff and were a new car
supplier for some vehicles for many a year.

 

[Wietse]

Yes sewer pipes.
The drone was not nice.
It sounded awesome though but too loud for cruising around.

Walker still makes exhaust nowdays but all i've seen are like common, stock replacement exhausts.

 

[Yeahrightgreer]

Yes sewer pipes.
The drone was not nice.
It sounded awesome though but too loud for cruising around.

Walker still makes exhaust nowdays but all i've seen are like common, stock replacement exhausts.

View attachment 915951 View attachment 915952

Woah those babies are nice! Yeah I image the drone down Main Street would get annoying after only a few minutes

 

[451Mopar]

The '71 Charger has the TTI 3" H-pipe system with the Super turbo mufflers. It sounds good, and quieter than most other performance mufflers, but not quiet.

There is also the difference between a nice mandrel bent exhaust system, and the common muffler shop systems with crimped bends.
The Charger originally had a 3.5" exhaust system with race bullet mufflers, and turn downs before the axle. It sounded like open headers below 3,000 RPM, above that it was just a smoother open header sound. At idle it would set car alarms off just at idle.
I got tired of the noise, and used the full length 3" mandrel bent system (TTI), and it made no difference in performance (when I was only running 12.50's), but was much quieter.
I think the crimped bends on the 3.5" exhaust made the tubes flow worse than the 3" tubes.

For my Coronet, I was not looking for maximum performance. Fitment and selection of quieter mufflers were a higher priority than the quickest ET.

 

[33 IMP]

I stand by my recommendation in post 15, but you asked for BTDT. The under chassis shot is my 62, built for the next combo, a 522 nitrous engine. 3 1/2 mandrel bent, in and out, 3 1/2 series 50 flowmasters, tailpipe s to the bumper. Best of 11.11, 122 with a 440.
The other two: 3 1/2 in and out hooker aero chamber (less than half the price of the flowmasters) turndowns in front of the rear axle, made with leftover pipe pieces from the 62. In a nine second n/a small block car, but it was real light! And... 3" in n out magnaflow, hooked to fenderwell headers on my gasser opel, exit to the side, in front of the rear tires.
Of the three, I like the flowmaster sound best, but i got used to the hookers, really liked them after a while, surprisingly mellow. The magnaflows are very quiet, straight thru, but very long. I'm gonna try the aeros on the opel.

 

[Wietse]

The 2,5” TTI exhaust is in order!
I am still working on the engine but once it is back in the car with the headers this bad boy can be bolted on.

I had in mind to open the side pipes and install a layer of stainless mesh with some absorption material to get rid of the drone.
But i also like the sound of these full systems, so a full set installed and call it done!

Thx for the advises given here!

 

[68Moparmaniac]

2 1/2 with X pipe, no regrets

 

[451Mopar]

View attachment 918632
2 1/2 with X pipe, no regrets

I have the TTI X-pipe on the Convertible. I added flanges between the muffler and tailpipe to make it easy to drop the center section of the exhaust out for working on the transmission.

 

[33 IMP]

I have the TTI X-pipe on the Convertible. I added flanges between the muffler and tailpipe to make it easy to drop the center section of the exhaust out for working on the transmission.

Me too. It's a real good idea.

 

[Wietse]

I have the TTI X-pipe on the Convertible. I added flanges between the muffler and tailpipe to make it easy to drop the center section of the exhaust out for working on the transmission.

Good idea, i will likely do this as well.
Once i got the engine back in i will go for a straight installation first.
But sounds like a good job for next winter.

 

[hunt2elk]

I have the TTI X-pipe on the Convertible. I added flanges between the muffler and tailpipe to make it easy to drop the center section of the exhaust out for working on the transmission.

Band clamps are another solution for easy removal. I use them on all my old cars and have never had an issue.

 

[Wietse]

I had a Motordyne exhaust system on my 350Z which used these band clamps.
Works very easy indeed, specially for aligning the individual pipes.

 

[rlem1977]

Thx for the reply guys.
That video is one of many i've seen saying going bigger is better, but that has more hp then mine does.
I don't want too much noise either, i love that American V8 rumble but want to be able to have a conversation in the car as well.
I did pick the H-pipe design as well as i read that it sounds better then the X-pipe...although the X makes a few more horses.
So a 3" would be louder as the 2,5", i did not know it was that much hassle to get the 3" around the rear axle and fuel tank also.

Late to the party here, but yes, can’t make as tight of a bend radius with larger pipe. Space gets consumed quickly.

 

[khryslerkid]

I bought pieces from Summit and Jegs then welded up my own system. 2.5"

 

[Wietse]

I bought pieces from Summit and Jegs then welded up my own system. 2.5"
View attachment 933172 View attachment 933174 View attachment 933176 View attachment 933178 View attachment 933180

Looking good!
I had the same thought of making the exhaust system myself out of stainless steel, but the total price of all material required made me consider paying a bit more and just need to install it.
This SS exhaust material is seriously overpriced, if you find the right guy at the right place you would be able to find some cheaper source maybe.

 

[khryslerkid]

Looking good!
I had the same thought of making the exhaust system myself out of stainless steel, but the total price of all material required made me consider paying a bit more and just need to install it.
This SS exhaust material is seriously overpriced, if you find the right guy at the right place you would be able to find some cheaper source maybe.

Stainless anything has always been expensive. What I hate is the different grades out there. Some have a lot of steel content and will rust. The stronger a magnet will stick to it the more steel is in it.

You'll like your choice