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Dropped center link from Mancini or 440 Source. Where is it made?

More photos comparing 440 source link with OEM link from a 1970 Super Bee

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full metal jacket would it be possible to see some pictures of what you did? i was thinking about cutting mine and putting a chrome moly tube to make it the correct size as my oe one also.
 
full metal jacket would it be possible to see some pictures of what you did? i was thinking about cutting mine and putting a chrome moly tube to make it the correct size as my oe one also.
330.
I only have pictures of the finished piece. Unfortunately, I did not take any flicks during the process, though I did make drawings.
Basically, I used 4130 chromoly tubing of 1" inch OD circumference. The tubing wall is most important in order to be strong for such a critical part. I think it was .188 or so wall thickness or in layman's terms, about 1/8" thick. To be safe, I turned down the straight part of the link after the turn to create a male sleeve enough to slip tightly into the chromoly tubing. It was then butt welded through a small hole that was drilled into the chromoly tube, then it was seam welded all the way around at the fault line where it met the iron eyelets.
It shaved 2 Lbs off that part. A jig is most important to bolt it down tight while cutting and sizing to keep the exact measurements and orientation intact.
I'll post some pictures when I find them.
 
While we're on the subject underneath, does anyone have recollection of what tool they used to remove the drag link from the idler arm while still on the car? Any tricks or perhaps a pitch fork?
 
Here's a close up of the lightweight drag link with the seam weld where the factory curve drop transitions to the straight bridge section. The plug weld which was ground finished is hiding on the top section.

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I use a puller like a 27170 OEM to remove steering joints I want to reuse, a picture can be found on Summit racing website
 
I use a puller like a 27170 OEM to remove steering joints I want to reuse, a picture can be found on Summit racing website
Thank you, but I'm not pulling the pitman arm off. I just want to remove the center link from the idler arm while on the car.
 
Thank you, but I'm not pulling the pitman arm off. I just want to remove the center link from the idler arm while on the car.
I know, they call it a pitman arm puller but the one I have can be adjusted tighter in order to “pull” the center link or steering arms off the center link
 
Here's a close up of the lightweight drag link with the seam weld where the factory curve drop transitions to the straight bridge section. The plug weld which was ground finished is hiding on the top section.

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Did you use an OEM link? When the link was turned to fit inside chrome-moly tube did you offset turn it to drop it a little more? What saying turn it like a crank to gain stroke and use a rod with a smaller big end.
 
Did you use an OEM link? When the link was turned to fit inside chrome-moly tube did you offset turn it to drop it a little more? What saying turn it like a crank to gain stroke and use a rod with a smaller big end.
Yes, an OEM link original to the car.
NO, did not offset turn it.
I forgot the name of the Bridgeport that helped us make the male end (might have been some hand work in there as well) to slip in the receiving chromoly tube.
 
i installed a drop link. needed an alignment but not much of an issue at all. was rubbing hard enough on the oil pan that it was leaking.
 
i installed a drop link. needed an alignment but not much of an issue at all. was rubbing hard enough on the oil pan that it was leaking.
The drop link was rubbing the pan enough to make it leak or was it the old link before that?
 
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