From the 1970 FSM:IF I remember right, your adjusters are made to adjust going forward. If the bottom arm was above star wheel, it would adjust in reverse.
I just spit out my Jack n Coke,,lmaoCAUTION!!
I decided to take the car to town on a test run (and to pick up the other brake tool I need for the fronts).
I checked the master cylinder first, topped off fluids...
I go to back Fred out of the garage - and I always back him out into an uphill embankment directly
behind the garage - and when I went for the brakes, I got NOTHING.
Zilch. Nada.
Grab something substantial, Gertie - we're going for a RIDE!
Pedal went all the way down and the warning light lit up on the dash!!
I'm thinking:
View attachment 1125041
I had expected there to be at least some pedal, with the rest to be taken up by some rolling brake
pedal slams so the adjusters could do their thing....
Well, turns out it was a good thing I always back out of the garage uphill.
A futile trip across the front of the property and some gyrations with the brake pedal didn't
appreciably improve things, so back in the garage (CAUTIOUSLY) I went.
Up went the whole rear axle, then wheels and drums off....which revealed pristine new brakes,
sitting there like all was well; I almost thought I saw them thumbing their noses at me.
Grrr....
Then I really got PISSED....
I then proceeded to crank on the adjusters....and crank on the adjusters....pause, then crank
on the damn adjusters some more, test fitting the drums each time.
When I could barely get the drum back on the first side, I stopped and went to the other side.
Lather, rinse, repeat....
Slapped both drums on, ran a couple lugs up on them to square them against the axle flange,
then headed back into the car.
Well, I'll be damned. Car now had an actual firm brake pedal - and it was repeatable!
Got the wife involved at that point and had her sit behind the wheel while I manned each side,
spinning each drum by hand and telling her to SLAM on the brakes. Repeatedly...
Every time she hit the brakes, I felt it all the way through my shoulders, since I was the
horsepower turning the damn drums by hand.
SLAM! Sunova.... SLAM! Motherfluck.... SLAM! Sunofapreachersdaughter....
Once I was satisfied Fred wasn't going to get a repeat chance to kill me, we called it good
and I got him back down on all fours, then went for a "yard drive" once again.
Much hoonery ensued.... me taking off hard, then slamming on the brakes, over and over.
Across the yard, up and down the gravel drive, sliding sideways and generally acting like
I'd lost it...
Wife reported the rears were locking FIRST, as they should be at this point since they had the
new stuff and the fronts old stuff.
She also had some manner of less than complimentary commentary about my driving skills....
oh well, all is right in the universe again.
If you stumble across this thread years from now and you've made it this far, if you don't remember
anything else that has been written thus far in it, remember THIS:
Run those flucking adjusters up until you damn near can't get the drums on.
You'll thank me for it, if even posthumously....
A bit of air in rear brake lines? Shoes not seated yet to drums?A drive to town to fetch the missing retainer spring tool in Fred today was uneventful - but
always a freaking blast, too.
The rear brakes were totally silent and the pedal was good - especially with one pump, for
some reason.
I'll be doing the fronts this weekend, probably Sunday!
Ain't no telling - but I've bled hell out of the thing, more than once and by more than one method.A bit of air in rear brake lines? Shoes not seated yet to drums?
View attachment 1128206
I grabbed the "pre-assembled" right side getup and slapped it up on the car, then installed the shoe retainer
springs and keepers with the handy Chinese tool. After that, DON'T FORGET THE GOOFY WASHER UP TOP!
(I almost did).
Now is the time to loop the self-adjuster tensioner cable thingy onto the top post, before the top springs are
installed - making sure the washer up top is all the way on to the post and snug against the shoes.
I'm impressed with the paint job on the shoes, by the way - thick and isn't chipping or anything.
Note the new and improved self-adjuster assembly at the bottom is now in its' normal position, needing only
to have the cable hooked on.
Let's get those top springs installed!
View attachment 1128207
There we go, all done. No fuss, no muss.
From here, I pulled the bearings out of the hub and packed 'em up real good, then reinstalled it.
Before putting the old drum back on, just like with the rears, I ran the adjuster up....and up.....and up
until some pretty good shoe drag was experienced on the drum, then slapped the drum back on for good
and put the wheel back on.
Remember: RUN THAT ADJUSTER UP, Y'ALL! Back it off just shy of locking the drum up....but dragging
pretty good when you spin the wheel.
Feeling real good about myself and all, I headed over to the drivers' (left) side, figuring things would be
an easy lather, rinse and repeat.
It was....at least, until I encountered THE HUB FROM HELL!!
On the drivers' side, the hub and drum had not been separated - and of course, had no interest in doing
so easily for me.
No biggie, I can work with that...
Wheel off, dust cap off, bearing retainer nut removed, outer bearing out, hub/drum removed just fine.
I was greeted with about the exact same conditions for the brakes themselves, including yet another
"modern" hose replacement and everything being dry and clean, so I repeated everything I had done
on the right side to little fanfare.
Again, the drum on that side proved to be in better shape than anything I had to spare, so it was retained.
Adjustments made, all back together, time to reinstall the hub/drum and....
the damn dust cap, which had put up quite the fight coming off, refused to go back on.
Sonuva....
Just what the hell is the problem here?
I take the hub/drum back off and take it over to the bench for scrutiny - and what I found were all sorts
of marks on the bearing area indicative of someone beating hell out of it in the past, to the point where
the openings' lip above the outer bearing race wasn't quite round anymore.
Wonderful...
Decision made, I'll tote the hub/drum over to the machine shop tomorrow and instruct them I want the
hub and drum separated and new studs installed in the hub AFTER they get the dust cap lip straightened
up so that a new cap will install properly again.
A small setback for sure - and probably one I could cure myself if I really wanted to - but given the price
of those hubs these days, I reckon I'll defer to the pros on this one AND get my desired separated hub
and drum anyways, the way I like it.
All in all, a productive evening - if not somewhat tarnished by the last minute discovery of boogery.
Such is the price of fooling with 50+ year old cars - you never know what someone before you has been
up to until you dig into it.
Onward and upward!
Looking forward to seeing how well these new shoes actually BITE - and it appears I'm in the market
for a sweet deal on drums, all the way around, if I truly want this to be as good as it can be.
There was a time, not too long ago, where there was some real expertise in that store.Sounds like you need to teach a shop class at that shop or get a discount for you edjumacatin them.