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edelbrock 650 boiling fuel 383 big block

shovelluv

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Factory built 1970 383 big block. last fall i replaced my carb with a edelbrock 650 tunder series. tuned it in great until it gets hot out. After it sits, when warm, ill take the air cleaner off and i can see the fuel dumping into the intake. I installed the spacer edelbrock suggested but its still boiling when warm. From what ive been reading i can....1) lower the float level 2) block off the intake heat passage in the middle 3) buy a holley. I was wondering if anyone else had this problem with the edelbrocks and how is it fixed?
 
had the same prob on a 68 charger with a factory iron intake.changed to an aluminum intake and installed a heat seperator.several aluminum plates(one larger then the rest as a sheild)seperated by gaskets.worked good until i got vapor lock.fixed that with an electric pump.
 
Factory built 1970 383 big block. last fall i replaced my carb with a edelbrock 650 tunder series. tuned it in great until it gets hot out. After it sits, when warm, ill take the air cleaner off and i can see the fuel dumping into the intake. I installed the spacer edelbrock suggested but its still boiling when warm. From what ive been reading i can....1) lower the float level 2) block off the intake heat passage in the middle 3) buy a holley. I was wondering if anyone else had this problem with the edelbrocks and how is it fixed?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8722

If your problem is extreme you can use one of the metal plates on each side of the wood. I have the same problem with the stock AFB on mt '66 383-4 that is wearing the stock intake, manifolds, and choke stove. I hate it! Running 50% 110 Torco eliminates the problem but it's $10/gallon around here.
 
What is the engine temperature? Ethanol boils at 173 so it does not have to overheat to cause problems. **** gas in my opinion. They want us all to go to F I. I will not. I did the 1/2 spacer, wrapped and moved the fuel lines. Electric fuel pump does not seem to help. Big Block characteristic is difficult hot re-starts.
 
You are correct. The fuel is most certainly the culprit. I see a turbo and Mega-squirt in my '66 Coronet 440's future. Hard starting is irritating.
 
Its runs at at 170 degrees. I called edelbrock and they recommended i block off the heat riser passages. Any dangers to doing this in a factory application. Yes, i do believe, the use of ethanol in todays gasoline is for sure lowering the boiling point.
 
Block off heat riser. No issues with doing that. That, the posted gasket and wrapping fuel lines will most likely cure it n
 
I Have the same problem on my '70 383. Exact same symptoms. Had verified the floats had the correct spacing, wrapped the fuel lines, and still have the percolating fuel when it's shut off and warm. Did the 1/2" phenolic spacer and it seems to have helped a small bit. Right now, I am just living with it as I have other items I am doing to the old gal but blocking off the heat crossover is in the future. I really like EFI but just not on this car.
+1 on the fuel being crap. Corn liquor is fer drinkin', not fer racin'.
 
I Have the same problem on my '70 383. Exact same symptoms. Had verified the floats had the correct spacing, wrapped the fuel lines, and still have the percolating fuel when it's shut off and warm. Did the 1/2" phenolic spacer and it seems to have helped a small bit. Right now, I am just living with it as I have other items I am doing to the old gal but blocking off the heat crossover is in the future. I really like EFI but just not on this car.
+1 on the fuel being crap. Corn liquor is fer drinkin', not fer racin'.
Agreed, same here.

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I had the same problem with my 70 GTX 440. Solved the problem with a CoolCarb plate workes greatView attachment 257850
Have not seen this before. Don't see an application for my 850 Demon.


http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0LEVxq6WVtVDrcA9ETBGOd_;_ylu=X3oDMTByOHZyb21tBGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNzcg--/RV=2/RE=1432078907/RO=10/RU=http%3a%2f%2fwww.coolcarb.com%2f/RK=0/RS=_A3I3hr1mN2XOq4mF2jI4aciirM-
 
I have a deamon also I used the holly open bore part #H1154and T154 spacer solved my problem oh also got the stainless stud pkg
 
Phenolic spacers help the most I think.
 
70gtxguy- I looked at the website for the CoolCarb plate and saw in the warnings that it might not be effective with a crossover. It looks like your intake has one, is it blocked off or did you just install the plate and it works fine. I too am interested in this as I haven't seen it either.

not trying to hijack the post. Think this could be a viable option to the original question.
 
My problem with blocking off the crossover is winter driveability/choke operation.
 
Blocking off the crossover has always been the most effective solution.
Yes do this, you can get a valley pan that has it blocked off already. Also use a good heat shield and spacer. We have a 383 with a 650 Holley dbl pumper on top of an Edelbrock TM-6, 3/4" spacer, and the fuel in it NEVER boils. So if all else fails, try that.

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We are also using an electric fuel pump and nitrous.
 
i run the vally pan that is blocked off

I have a 383 and 650 avs. I have insulated lines, Edelbrock insulating gasket and fuel pressure at 5psi. Crossovers open with fan shroud and 180 thermostat with aluminum m1 intake. Don t have hot restart problems anymore.
 
I had the same problem with the fuel boiling at times and the eng was not overheating as it would be around 180 to 190 when it might happen and I have always used an electric fuel pump. And even after I installed a phenolic spacer it still did it some times. I also did a few other things like I changed my fuel line and ran it up inside the passenger wheelwell on the outside to keep it away from eng heat as much as I could. The other thing I found was when I ran a larger 14" air cleaner that it would hold alot of heat under it right on the carb bowls so I changed to this 9" air filter to let more air around the carb bowls. I also added the heat shield under the phonlic spacer to help even more. So far I have been ok but I also noticed when they switch to winter gas here in Md around November that it makes the gas even worse with more ethanal in it. They switch back to summer gas around late March I believe. Ron

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