expected idle?

[33 IMP]

I didn't read anywhere that this is a drag race only car. This is what MVA can do.....

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Top of post #12.
1/4 mile car, no street driving.
So.... I'd still set total timing where it needs to be, and set idle speed where it's comfy in gear, and where it ends up in park is where it ends up.
1200 in neutral wouldn't surprise me or bother me.

 

[Virg464]

Virg,
The centri curve & total mech advance is the LAST thing you do.....
The First thing you do is get the idle timing correct. Failure to do this will result in the car not performing at it's best. One member has already told you his combo needed 60* at idle. Hint, hint.

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I appreciate the education G. This is the first engine beyond OEM/mild street stuff for me, so I'm hesitantly taking the steps forward towards the numbers you have been showing. It's not that I don't believe you and others on this site, with WAY more time and experience under the hood, than I. It's just that I'm taking steps into an unknown for me.

 

[Geoff 2]

To determine the correct amount of idle timing, you do this simple 5 min test:
- engine warmed up to operating temp, mixture adjusted as best as possible, engine idling in gear.
- slowly rotate dist CW [ advances the timing ].
- keep going until you get the highest rpm/smoothest idle. Toggle the dist to make sure.
- now check what the timing is.

Report back with the result & we go from there....

 

[Virg464]

To determine the correct amount of idle timing, you do this simple 5 min test:
- engine warmed up to operating temp, mixture adjusted as best as possible, engine idling in gear.
- slowly rotate dist CW [ advances the timing ].
- keep going until you get the highest rpm/smoothest idle. Toggle the dist to make sure.
- now check what the timing is.

Report back with the result & we go from there....

I will give that a shot.

 

[Virg464]

Finally got a break in my sched and set up to run the initial timing test. Warmed up the engine, tools and remote tach ready to go, checked shifter operation. Pressed the brake pedal just because, and it went to the floor, checked the M/C, rear reservoir empty! No puddle of fluid under the car, so I suspect I have a couple of brake drums full of fluid. We shall see.

 

[Virg464]

Well, easy enough to find the source of the leak, "T" fitting at the bottom of the line lock solenoid. At least the wheel cylinders are good and the rest of the system is OK. So, R&R fittings and bleed the brakes, then start over with the timing issue. Only question that comes to mind is, no fluid on the garage floor, line lock mounted to the inner finder, under the M/C, could the fluid have run down along the frame and will I have paint peel then rust issues in those seam/joint areas?

 

[Rishi]

Well, easy enough to find the source of the leak, "T" fitting at the bottom of the line lock solenoid. At least the wheel cylinders are good and the rest of the system is OK. So, R&R fittings and bleed the brakes, then start over with the timing issue. Only question that comes to mind is, no fluid on the garage floor, line lock mounted to the inner finder, under the M/C, could the fluid have run down along the frame and will I have paint peel then rust issues in those seam/joint areas?

When was the last time you checked the fluid levels? I would not normally pop the cover off my M/C and look unless I was experiencing a braking issue. Could it have been this way a long time?

Refill it, bleed the brakes, and look for signs of a leak. Drive it. Some leaks won't occur unless your driving it.

But it's a mystery where the fluid went. I t's hard to imagine the reservoir will go empty a second time, without leaving signs of a leak.

 

[Virg464]

When was the last time you checked the fluid levels? I would not normally pop the cover off my M/C and look unless I was experiencing a braking issue. Could it have been this way a long time?

Refill it, bleed the brakes, and look for signs of a leak. Drive it. Some leaks won't occur unless your driving it.

But it's a mystery where the fluid went. I t's hard to imagine the reservoir will go empty a second time, without leaving signs of a leak.

It's been sitting since earlier this year. The car is on jack stands and not road ready, that's what I'm working toward right now. Just the rear brakes reservoir is empty, the front brake is fine. The entire line to the rear brakes is clean and dry, no fluid seeping out of the bottom of the brake drums, the only fluid leak is at the "T" fitting on the bottom of the line-lock solenoid. Pretty sure that's where the issue is. The line-lock sits just above the front frame rail, have a feeling the fluid ran right down the rail and into the body/floor pan panels.