wannadrag
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Ive done it,its not a one person job.Once down thats pretty much it.Did mine myself and wished i would have got help and it was a bitch.Did it half at a time and do any trimming ahead of time.
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Propwash
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Thanks for the info gent's and thanks for asking your dad Morbid.
Dave, $375 for just the install. That includes reinstalling trim. The tops are readily available for around $100-120 bucks.
Wannadrag, after hearing your story and talking with a few more folks that attempted it themselves, and it seems it may be a bit easier just to fork over the lute, don't sweat it, and let the pro's deal with it.
Dave, $375 for just the install. That includes reinstalling trim. The tops are readily available for around $100-120 bucks.
Wannadrag, after hearing your story and talking with a few more folks that attempted it themselves, and it seems it may be a bit easier just to fork over the lute, don't sweat it, and let the pro's deal with it.
northerndave
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I like learning but some things I'm willing to let go. Especially if I identify the fact that what I am about to learn is sort of an art itself that requires practice.
Example, I built my own house, I framed it, sheeted, did the plumming, wiring, I did everything except the concrete work and I also hired a crew to hang the sheetrock and tape/mud/texture.
I'm ok with not learning concrete work and I'm ok with letting an experienced crew race through the sheetrock work. :grin:
And now I'm thinking I'm ok with letting someone else put a vinyl top on my car (if my vinyl goes back on)
Example, I built my own house, I framed it, sheeted, did the plumming, wiring, I did everything except the concrete work and I also hired a crew to hang the sheetrock and tape/mud/texture.
I'm ok with not learning concrete work and I'm ok with letting an experienced crew race through the sheetrock work. :grin:
And now I'm thinking I'm ok with letting someone else put a vinyl top on my car (if my vinyl goes back on)
morbidgoat
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well Will, i talked to my old man today and i got nothing but bad news. first is yours he recommends to have a professional do your vinyl he said one person can do it themself but it is a b!tch and you need to be pretty strong. he recommends doing it at about 75 degrees in the shade and also said NOT to pre trim it. you need the exra material so you can clamp the top nice and tight so it will dry with out air bubbles (recommends cutting some strips of wood and using vice grips to clamp the excess to the drip rails) then after dry come back and trim with a new sharp razor blade. on the plus side he said that 375 is not a bad price for you
now as for my bad news, it looks like my car is going to get pushed back another week. he tells me he can't help me this weekend now. maybe by the end of summer it'll be painted
now as for my bad news, it looks like my car is going to get pushed back another week. he tells me he can't help me this weekend now. maybe by the end of summer it'll be painted
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:app: damn' Will, i see you resurrecting this old bird, and it makes a man think.. 
....
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Propwash
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Ditto on that dave..............
Morbid...Thanks for asking buddy. I think with you telling me that, it pretty much puts the nail in the coffin. I'll have the pro's do it. I could see doing it if it was something I was interested in and wanted to expand my capabilities, but honestly that does not really sound like a whole lot of fun to me..Bummer on the car hey!!! I can't imagine being that close and having to wait that much longer....Ummm, I'll shut up, probably not helping out the situation much.......
You should jump all over that 69' RR for sale in iowa MarPar. We could mail each other chunks of rust and rotten body panels from each others car...LOL
Morbid...Thanks for asking buddy. I think with you telling me that, it pretty much puts the nail in the coffin. I'll have the pro's do it. I could see doing it if it was something I was interested in and wanted to expand my capabilities, but honestly that does not really sound like a whole lot of fun to me..Bummer on the car hey!!! I can't imagine being that close and having to wait that much longer....Ummm, I'll shut up, probably not helping out the situation much.......
You should jump all over that 69' RR for sale in iowa MarPar. We could mail each other chunks of rust and rotten body panels from each others car...LOL
roadrunnerman
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will,got the same problem you have on the vinyl.maybe if you had a friend,warm weather,rollers to get the wrinkles out...yea you're right,there's no price for getting it professionally done.:grin::grin:
Propwash
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Yeah, no doubt roadrunnerman......The top is kind of like seat covers or installing a headliner. Not really interested in learning or doing (or screwing up!) either. Just don't find that type of work that appealing. Now give me a welder, sawzall, and a set of wrenches...Life is good!
Got a bit more work done on Skeletor over the weekend..I'll post some pic's soon!
Have a good one guys.....
roadrunnerman
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i'll be waitin' will.hopefully the guy is coming today to p/u my pickup and then when i get home i can pull my RR out and get some photos of it for you guys to look at.i took my vinyl off so then you can tell me if my roof looked like yours.
Propwash
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Excellent!! Can't wait for your pic's
Propwash
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Thanks swede and no problem on the tips, always willing to help out fellow mopar cats like myself.
Got a couple pic's to toss up. With work running me at full tilt and a billion other things to do, the old Plymouth isn't getting as much TLC as i'd like...Soon to change though!
Started on the full rocker replacement (what a treat!) I'll post some pic's when i get a little further in the removal installation.
I did get the rear crossmember completely installed now. The rear is actually starting to have a firm feel to it. Lot better than a couple months ago when i just had some hacked up quarters which made up my whole rear of the car.
The crossmember is welded to the frame rail flanges and shackle mount flanges in the rear. The top of lip of the crossmember is the welded to the bottom side of the trunk pan inside the outer lip of the fill panel. The fill panel is welded to the bottom trunk gutters and tail light buckets. The trunk pan is welded to the rear floor rise at the hump, also then to the frame rails, shackle mounts, inner wheelhouses, and then the fill panel. Of course the trunk brace is tied in as well as the tank supports.
The trunk pan will also be tied into the extention panels, which weld onto the outer wheelhouses, quarters and then the top of the crossmember lip as well as the crossmember extentions.
whhewwww......... Holding off on fully installing the trunk extentions till the quarters are being fitted, just to avoid any issues with fit up back there.
Getting some R & R this weekend guys. Hitting up a 4-day weekend of camping, hiking, fishing, and plain old kicking back having a few cold ones.
Take care all!
Starting to feel a lot better after dealing with this just a short bit ago
Got a couple pic's to toss up. With work running me at full tilt and a billion other things to do, the old Plymouth isn't getting as much TLC as i'd like...Soon to change though!
Started on the full rocker replacement (what a treat!) I'll post some pic's when i get a little further in the removal installation.
I did get the rear crossmember completely installed now. The rear is actually starting to have a firm feel to it. Lot better than a couple months ago when i just had some hacked up quarters which made up my whole rear of the car.
The crossmember is welded to the frame rail flanges and shackle mount flanges in the rear. The top of lip of the crossmember is the welded to the bottom side of the trunk pan inside the outer lip of the fill panel. The fill panel is welded to the bottom trunk gutters and tail light buckets. The trunk pan is welded to the rear floor rise at the hump, also then to the frame rails, shackle mounts, inner wheelhouses, and then the fill panel. Of course the trunk brace is tied in as well as the tank supports.
The trunk pan will also be tied into the extention panels, which weld onto the outer wheelhouses, quarters and then the top of the crossmember lip as well as the crossmember extentions.
whhewwww......... Holding off on fully installing the trunk extentions till the quarters are being fitted, just to avoid any issues with fit up back there.
Getting some R & R this weekend guys. Hitting up a 4-day weekend of camping, hiking, fishing, and plain old kicking back having a few cold ones.
Take care all!
Starting to feel a lot better after dealing with this just a short bit ago
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detmatt1
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Looking really good Prop, I am on the verge of taking a few days off to focus on the "DOG", it feels like it's been over a month since I worked on it, oh yes, it has been.
northerndave
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Oh she's lookin good!!
Propwash
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Thanks Dave.....I cannot wait until I get these stinking rockers put in! After that.......The quarters! She will finally start looking like something again.
Matt.......What the heck man! You on a sabbatical now? Lets get rolling dady'o..You heading down to Woodard Dream Cruise on the 21st?
Matt.......What the heck man! You on a sabbatical now? Lets get rolling dady'o..You heading down to Woodard Dream Cruise on the 21st?
northerndave
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Are you thinking bout putting sub frame connectors in too?
Is your cowl cracked at all where the windshield posts come down to the cowl?
How about the quarters right at the forward top edge of the quarter where it wraps in to the door opening (right below the 1/4 window)?
Seems like if these B bodies get too structurally floppy from rust they can start cracking in these areas from body twist, more likely if someone has been running them hard though, hooking up good & putting some twist on them.
Is your cowl cracked at all where the windshield posts come down to the cowl?
How about the quarters right at the forward top edge of the quarter where it wraps in to the door opening (right below the 1/4 window)?
Seems like if these B bodies get too structurally floppy from rust they can start cracking in these areas from body twist, more likely if someone has been running them hard though, hooking up good & putting some twist on them.
Propwash
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By far putting sub frame connectors in the car Dave. With a 512 stroker, I need all the support I can get. As soon as I tidy up the new front floor pans, those puppies will be welded in. As far as my cowl, no she isn't cracked up there but I did notice some mud work on the forward edge thats coming apart and it looks like some yahoo used a pry bar or big screwdriver in the past to remove the wiper arms, in turn dents in the cowl and the vent openings are all bent up. I actually got a new outer cowl from AMD I will be putting in.
The quarters are cracked where it makes the turn into the jam up top. I have definitly seen this before as well. I plan on templating in reinforcement metal to the inside of that area. Tac it on before full install, then full weld once installed through the opening in the inside door panel. Gonna be tough, but I had a 72' roadrunner crack there only 2 years after new quarters.
On the trunk pan I not only spot welded the pan to the top of the rails/shackles, but I also tac'd from the bottom side as well for more support. I also got more aggressive with the amount of welds to the inner wheelhouses as well. With the Trugrip Detroit Locker mounted on the Calvert Racing Cal Trac Traction system, when she grabs I sure don't need the rest of the cars structure twisting up like an accordion
The quarters are cracked where it makes the turn into the jam up top. I have definitly seen this before as well. I plan on templating in reinforcement metal to the inside of that area. Tac it on before full install, then full weld once installed through the opening in the inside door panel. Gonna be tough, but I had a 72' roadrunner crack there only 2 years after new quarters.
On the trunk pan I not only spot welded the pan to the top of the rails/shackles, but I also tac'd from the bottom side as well for more support. I also got more aggressive with the amount of welds to the inner wheelhouses as well. With the Trugrip Detroit Locker mounted on the Calvert Racing Cal Trac Traction system, when she grabs I sure don't need the rest of the cars structure twisting up like an accordion
northerndave
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Awesome, looks like I will be following your lead on structural integrity and I'll be watching your traction mods & locker upgrade as well.
My suregrip is slipping and my old school slapper bars don't really get things done for me when the suregrip does grab. I get too much tire chatter back there right now.
On the 68 coronet I did for my buddy I did the same as you have planned for your cracked quarter areas. Wasn't too bad since I had the skins cut off anyways.
512 stroker? holy cow!
My suregrip is slipping and my old school slapper bars don't really get things done for me when the suregrip does grab. I get too much tire chatter back there right now.
On the 68 coronet I did for my buddy I did the same as you have planned for your cracked quarter areas. Wasn't too bad since I had the skins cut off anyways.
512 stroker? holy cow!
northerndave
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looking at my 69 RR closer last night, it took a good hit to the drivers side somehow back in the day before it's signed & dated 1976 paint job.
quarter is thick with bondo, some evedince of the door seeing some of that hit with the door latch assembly being out of place, shoved inwards so the door closes too far... I might be in for all kinds of surprises when I start taking mine apart this winter.
quarter is thick with bondo, some evedince of the door seeing some of that hit with the door latch assembly being out of place, shoved inwards so the door closes too far... I might be in for all kinds of surprises when I start taking mine apart this winter.
roadrunnerman
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hey will,looking good on your end.finally got those pics i promised take a look,i'll value yours and everybody else's opinion.
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