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did you overlap the window channel or did you butt weld the new piece in?
 
Not quite sure what your asking Roger.
The new window channel sits on top the roof/window frame. The piece has a tab that stretches horizontally towards the middle of the car. That tab pinches in between the window frame and lip of the deck filler. On the vertical side running towards the roof, there is no tab or extension that needs to be pinched in between anything. To secure it, I drilled (5) 5/16" holes equally spaced in the new part and plug welded them in. I also lifted up the lip of the deck filler and slid that tab in between, crimped back down and plug welded in the hole left behind from drilling out the spot weld originally holding the deck filler to the roof/window frame in that area. On the vertical side I welded across the front leading edge lip of the new window channel to the roof/window frame and ground flush. I also used a bit of 3M seam sealer on the bottom side of the new window channel to frame when all said and done.

Does that kind of answer your question? It really is a pretty easy to install and probably a heck of a lot easier to understand once you pull it apart.
 
sorry will,had a brain fart. i was asking about just the corner of the window channel that always rust bad.guess i'll have to pay attention better just like my teachers told me to do.LOL
 
LOL...Gee, I remember hearing that from mine as well.

This area I swapped out is definitly a very common cancerous area Roger and that is probably the area you are thinking about. How it all fits together is the quarter panel is spot welded over the top of it. Then you have the little window channel piece under that ( kind of a "L" shape, maybe 3" X 4"). Under that is the cars large stucture of the roof/window frame. All of these are piched together and spotwelded all the way through the three layers. At the end of the quarter where it meets up with the sides of the deck filler panel, the layers pinched and spot welded together are the deck filler lip, that little tab from the window channel piece and the window frame.

Make a little more sense or am I just butchering up worse?...LOL
 
Holy Crap Will!! Your runner is gonna be done in no time!! Cant wait to see u hang the quarters!
 
that's what i was asking about was that "L" shaped window channel.if i only have to replace that,do i overlap that to the existing channel or do i butt weld it in place?I see from your latest pics you haven't got that far yet,so maybe i am getting ahead of you,so i'll wait until you get to that point.
 
I see what you're saying Roger.....The "L" shape piece over laps on top and then the quarter panel over laps over the "L" shaped window channel. I'll snap a pic tonight of the other side where the quarter is still on a bit and you can see how it all goes together from the inside.
 
that would be great will,thanks. that area and also the seam where the roof pillar meets the rear quarter will be one of the main concentration on my RR when i can get all the parts ordered.
 
Here's some pic's Rodger...........

Roof-need to take a propane/map gas torch to melt all the old factory lead out at the roof to quarter seam.

r3-1.jpg


r2-1.jpg


View looking in from outside to in drivers side

r1-1.jpg


New AMD L-shaped window channel bracket, or some call deck filler patch

wc.jpg


Hope it helps
 
I've put these in before, only to end up changing the entire qtr as if this piece goes, much of the rest of the steel is shot too, from my experience.
 
You Bet Morbid!


Feels pretty good to get to the point of fresh quarters. I was kind of getting sick of looking at half hacked sheetmetal


e1-1.jpg


I don't think anyone makes perfect panels and these full quarters from AMD are no different. I addressed these issues before I even fit them up. If you have 68-69 Plymouth B-Body, be prepared to tweak these areas

e2-1.jpg


e3-1.jpg


e4-1.jpg


e5.jpg


Here she is with the initial fit up.....There is going to definitly going to be some more tweaking going on. Window corner area, bumper indent area and seam running up the roof will all need work

e6.jpg


e7.jpg
 
This looks awesome! I cant wait to see her w/ the 1/4's on I only have the 1's that go to the top of the body line and I am gonna try to hang them a little under the original body line so I can keep it the same after looking at the over all fit maybe I should have went w/ full 1/4's! Keep up the awesome work! And thanks 4 all the p.m.'s helping me w/ everything!
 
Hey, no problem Ben....Glad to help. I usually like to go with the skins like you got, but this one was way too rotton. Would have got a bit more done today, but was a little tied up checking out a 69' Dart GTS project. Awesome car!
 
Love the darts!! 68 is my favorite but the 69-70 are pretty sweet 2,Even though I have my work cut out 4 me, I would like my next project 2 be a 68 charger,68-9 coronet/super bee,or possibly a 70 challenger,Your runner and next project will probably be done before my satellite at this pace though!
 
Thanks Donny.......Got to keep rolling to make her ready for paint come spring. Can't believe I've been pegging away for 6 months already. Everytime I look at the car i think of 10 other things that need to be done to it....lol Tonssssssss of work do do yet before paint.

Ben....I agree on the Dart's. I've had a 70 and 71'. Both really fun cars. Zippy little things without cramming tons of dough into a big block. A 68 Charger would be really nice. The Dart I looked at is worse off than the runner as far as rust. Still trying to figure out if i want another car to dissect or find one a bit more solid and a bit more pocket book/time friendly. It does have a 340 with a 4SPD in it though.
 
Man Propwash,that runner is coming out sweet going to be done in no time if you continue at this paste.
 
Thanks gent's!

Trying to keep a vigerous pace before the sleds start sucking up my time here shortly.
 
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