First questions on my 727 rebuild journey

[AR67GTX]

Could be wrong , but would think you could get those sun gears all day long.
Good deal is, your getting the pleasure of picking your own parts! Knowing what you have is half the battle, and fun.

I thought I remembered seeing them a lot earlier too but when I went back to look the only one I quickly found was at MAKCO. I asked T'Flight Patty if they have any since they asked if there was anything else they could help me with. I suspect the one for later 727s (after 75 or so, with a little different tooth angle) may be more available. I've seen a few included with the carrier but no reason to replace the carrier if I can find just the gear.

 

[miller]

Yes sir...could be right on the later trans part. Of course, you want one that's for your year model, or in that range of years.
Finding those older, but common, parts...depends on where you look, I guess. The parts supplier I've used, in Dallas, has been around for quite a while. Dang, can't remember the name...maybe a search for trans parts supply houses in Dallas, unless you can find something closer.
If I find the name, I'll let you know...

 

[miller]

Whatever It Takes transmission...
https://www.wittrans.com/

 

[AR67GTX]

Some of these parts are hard to completely dry with air such as the two piece welded carriers and hubs. Anyone think it's a problem to spray a very little amount of WD40 to run inside those hidden joints and recesses to displace any remaining moisture? My other option is to place them in front of an electric heater for awhile. But I wouldn't think a small amount of WD40 would cause a fluid contamination issue????

 

[miller]

What are they wet with, AR67GTX? I always use clean kerosene, and simply let them air dry. Then, the WD40. If the part sits long enough, with WD40 on it, it will also somewhat dry, no contamination probs.
You might also hit one of your local shops, and see if they will give, or you can buy, just a part of a tube of trans assembly lube. Doesn't take much, but make assembly much easier. Lol, a full tube probably will do 100 trans.

 

[AR67GTX]

What are they wet with, AR67GTX? I always use clean kerosene, and simply let them air dry. Then, the WD40. If the part sits long enough, with WD40 on it, it will also somewhat dry, no contamination probs.
You might also hit one of your local shops, and see if they will give, or you can buy, just a part of a tube of trans assembly lube. Doesn't take much, but make assembly much easier. Lol, a full tube probably will do 100 trans.

I've been using my parts washer and sometimes a spray with engine degreaser and then spray off with the hose and blow dry.

Found this place - I probably skipped over them since the name "Cobra" made me think they were a Ford site - but not the case. They have a lot of good stuff including new planetary and sun gears.

https://cobratransmission.com/index...n=1&keyword=A727&inc_subcat=0&sort=20a&page=1

 

[miller]

Yeah. I go ways, where I don't use water on parts. Though, if it works for you, good enough! My years of working parts, some plain rusted up, cured me of water use.

Even a dip, in some kind of solvent, or thinner, would wash away any water on a part. But, just a matter of preference.

 

[Fran Blacker]

I use rubbing alcohol to get rid of water. Look at label some is 50/50 water others are 75/25, 75% alcohol, I use the 75% Used it to get water out of gas tanks. The water mixes with the alcohol and evaporates. Then there's dry gas.

 

[AR67GTX]

Here's a question. Cleaning parts and got down to the servo and accumulator. As I disassembled the transmission I put all the related parts in separate cups and labeled them to keep everything sorted. Just notice I don't have a spring with the accumulator piston and in looking back at my photos as I was taking things apart - I don't see a spring on the accumulator after removing the valve body.





The 67 manual mentions installing a spring - but this is a 68 tranny.

Carl Munroe's book mentions reinstalling the spring but doesn't say much more about it that I've found.

The TransGo valve body kit I bought says some have one spring, some have top and bottom springs and some have no springs - reassemble as it came apart.

In looking at the piston and the valve body I don't see any wear marks like it's been riding on a spring.

Hoping someone can weigh in on this as I don't see how I could have misplaced it. Doug - in your service work did you find some without a spring?

Edit: well, after googling around a while it looks like a very, very common modification to throw away the accumulator spring. I remember when I bought the car about 15 years ago that he said when he went through the transmission he had done something with a spring - now I wonder if it was to throw away this one (accumulator spring). And I also wonder what the value of the sleeve and replacement piston kit is that I bought to repair the badly scored accumulator wall is????

 

[oldbee]

I remember a second spring being talked about in the books,BUT not in a hi-perf trans; just the one big one. Never tore any of mine apart & had 2 springs. Just go with the main big one. Think that smaller one cushioned the apply a little.

 

[dvw]

Seen them with out the spring. I have plenty of springs if you need one. All planet gears are the same angle. The front planet has different pressure angles on the splines and do not interchange on the wrong year output shaft. I have never had to replace a sun shell gear.
Doug

 

[miller]

The left out spring is a fairly common thing done, but easily tossed back in, too.
All is what I consider the beauty of the 727. They can be built many different ways, depending on what your looking for...shift like a caddy, or a thumper.

Don't know all the details, but only car that out ran my 63 SF, was a 64 Ply. Had the push button shift...when he put it in reverse, to back out of the shop, it literally jumped back 6"...same on the forward gear.

 

[AR67GTX]

After reading a lot of Google results and Carls book it's hard to get a consensus. I'm leaning towards putting it back the way I found it without a spring. Mine doesn't seem to engage reverse or drive overly hard and the 1-2 shift was fairly firm but not excessively so.

About the only harshness I had was an occasional harder than normal shift into 3rd if I were moving from a stop and let off the throttle just before it went to 3rd. It would sort of clunk into 3rd. That might be a result of no spring(?).

Sounds like racers like to put a spacer under the piston to keep it seated against the valve body so it can't move but from various sources it sounds like that is not a good approach for a mostly stock street cruiser.

Edit: Doesn't look like the accumulator plays any real role in the 2 - 3 shift after doing a little more studying.

 

[miller]

Yeah. Of course, playing with someone else's handy work, there's plenty of write ups, so you can check things, and make your own decisions.
Can't help on the repair sleeve part. Never had to use one...maybe some one else?

 

[dvw]

I've never sleeved a bore eitther. My bet is that yours is fine. Assemble it and give it an air check.
Doug

 

[Fran Blacker]

I've read the accumulator spring softens the 1/2 shift. Thought DVW would comment, like to know his thoughts. My t-flite doesn't have one.

 

[dvw]

The spring has no effect on rolling shift quality. What it does do is cushion the apply of the rear clutch when you select a forward gear from park/neutral. There have been instances where the belleville spring will break. The spring is said to address this issue. The accumulator itself cushions the 1/2. Shift. So installing a blocker under the piston so the piston is always in the upper position will firm the 1/2 shift.
Doug

 

[AR67GTX]

After extensive Googling and reading - Doug's the man and got the correct info. I think I will go ahead and try to find a spring to install as softening the shift into drive or reverse has only good consequences and does no harm to the 1-2 shift.

I sleeved the accumulator today. I looked at honing it but it was really badly scored and my hone was too big to go into the smaller bore. Plus I have the sleeve kit. Seemed to work fine - put the sleeves in the freezer for awhile, coated them with some blue Loctite (out of red) and tapped them in place. The main servo bores polished up nice although I had to hone one a little.






Working on valve body mods now with the TransGo kit.

 

[AR67GTX]

Here's a puzzler - looking at the front clutch hub bushing and the replacement bushing in the bushing kit. Installing the pump reaction shaft in both bushings the installed bushing is actually 1 to 2 thousands tighter than the replacement bushing (using feeler gages). I got about .007 on the new one and .005 to .006 on the old one. The shaft does rock a bit in the old bushing however. When knocking new bushings in will they actually deform and tighten up enough to make up that 1 or 2 thousands??

 

[oldbee]

Well they have to tighten up a little when knocked in,right?