First questions on my 727 rebuild journey

[AR67GTX]

I ran into the same thing, on my current build, two years ago, and also the real proud prices on new ones.
I was looking for 4/4 gear sets, front and rear. Wound up finding a useable used set from a local trans shop, one man op. Would be a tough row to try to rebuild them, even if you had access to parts. Any trans parts suppliers local, you could check with?


Guess your wanting to re-use your driveshaft?
Easily can be wrong, but after some research, 1330 joints are for 'light' setups, 1350 for heavier (BB). Of course, on mine, was starting from nothing.
Should be able to find parts at a good driveshaft shop.

I know of a couple reputable transmission shops I might check with on the planetary. I'm not sure anything is really worn out on mine but sure whine's badly. I would at least like to change the whine level.

I ran into the 1330/1350 issue on my rear u-joint because I have a later 489 rear with 1350 yoke. I made one up out of a 1330 and 1350 u-joint. Strange thing is the trunion for both was the same - only the caps were different. So I switched the caps on two poles. I always thought the trunion was the main factor in the u-joints strength.

It is possible the previous owner put a small block driveshaft in it. But on at least one auto parts look up, I came up with 1330 being the correct u-joint for my GTX so I don't know.

 

[miller]

reputable transmission shops

Hmmm...here's the naysayer in me...are there any? Many nowadays don't know a 727 from a hole in the ground! Those that do...I've ran into some that do, know the hard-to-find parts, and hang on to them. (That's how I found my pinion sets.)
Naw, can't say that about all of 'em, but I've walked into all kinds.

The u-joint bit...maybe help.

Hard to say what's considered standard, though 7260/1330 are for light duty, 7290/1350 for HD set-up.
I had run into a cobbled mess on mine, since my rear had a 1350 yoke on it. Wound up staying with it, using a combo u-joint there 1350/7290, 7290 the rest of the way.
Though, of course, had to start new on the driveshaft. Worked in a 29/30 tail shaft on the 727.

 

[AR67GTX]

I know of two who are supposed to be the go-to places for older car auto transmission repairs and rebuilds amongst the local car collector crowd - so maybe they can help me out.

Kind of wondering if the 67 GTX automatics might have been a one - year driveshaft/yoke set up - left over from 66 and earlier. And maybe they went to the larger u-joint in 68 or 69. My driveshaft has a big harmonic balance ring on the front of it - would that be typical on a 67 GTX?

If a combo u-joint is pretty readily available I guess that might be an easy solution.

Thanks

Hmmm...here's the naysayer in me...are there any? Many nowadays don't know a 727 from a hole in the ground! Those that do...I've ran into some that do, know the hard-to-find parts, and hang on to them. (That's how I found my pinion sets.)
Naw, can't say that about all of 'em, but I've walked into all kinds.

The u-joint bit...maybe help.
View attachment 392044
Hard to say what's considered standard, though 7260/1330 are for light duty, 7290/1350 for HD set-up.
I had run into a cobbled mess on mine, since my rear had a 1350 yoke on it. Wound up staying with it, using a combo u-joint there 1350/7290, 7290 the rest of the way.
Though, of course, had to start new on the driveshaft. Worked in a 29/30 tail shaft on the 727.

 

[Fran Blacker]

1330 u-joints came on 66 I know and 67 ( 67 I think) Hemi cars, my 66 Hemi auto came with 1330's. I have a 68 Hemi GTX drive shaft with 7290 u joints. Back in 1986 I made two combo u joint by purchasing a 1330 and a 7290 by switching 2 cups from u joint. I ended up with 2 combo u joints. I was looking for a 1330 yoke also and looked at spec's of u joints. Can't swear to this, if I remember the only difference is cup size between u joints. The cross piece is the same in 7290, 1330 and 1350 u joints.

 

[AR67GTX]

1330 u-joints came on 66 I know and 67 ( 67 I think) Hemi cars, my 66 Hemi auto came with 1330's. I have a 68 Hemi GTX drive shaft with 7290 u joints. Back in 1986 I made two combo u joint by purchasing a 1330 and a 7290 by switching 2 cups from u joint. I ended up with 2 combo u joints. I was looking for a 1330 yoke also and looked at spec's of u joints. Can't swear to this, if I remember the only difference is cup size between u joints. The cross piece is the same in 7290, 1330 and 1350 u joints.

Fran - that's what I discovered when I cobbled something together for a u-joint at the rear end - bought two u-joints and made one. The cross piece was the same. I think the yoke on my 489 used a 7290 so I ended up with two external clips and two inside clips - works though.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Needed a drive shaft for my 65 Dodge, the Dana 60 has a 1330 yoke. Had a drive shaft made with 1350 front u/j and a 1350 u/j in back on drive shaft with 1330 cups or a combo joint.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Pulled this off a web site. The extra strength in 1350 over must be in the center part of the joint not the pin diameter where needle bearings ride IF they're the same diameter as 1330 joint.

 

[miller]

Kind of wondering if the 67 GTX automatics might have been a one - year driveshaft/yoke set up - left over from 66 and earlier. And maybe they went to the larger u-joint in 68 or 69. My driveshaft has a big harmonic balance ring on the front of it - would that be typical on a 67 GTX?

Good 'ol 67. Almost laughed...since both trans, and 8 3/4" rear, in my 64 Ply, are out of a 67 Dodge Coronet RT! Not the same one.

Could easily be, as you say in your quote. I have one of the like driveshafts in the shop, with the balance ring on it. Had to ask, and told not much use...but, if it works...
Didn't matter to me, since I had to have one made. Do remember that shaft had 7260s on both ends.

 

[AR67GTX]

Good 'ol 67. Almost laughed...since both trans, and 8 3/4" rear, in my 64 Ply, are out of a 67 Dodge Coronet RT! Not the same one.

Could easily be, as you say in your quote. I have one of the like driveshafts in the shop, with the balance ring on it. Had to ask, and told not much use...but, if it works...
Didn't matter to me, since I had to have one made. Do remember that shaft had 7260s on both ends.

Miller - what's the details on your 64 Plymouth. My first car was a 1964 383 Sport Fury black on black - loved that car and still keeping my eye out for one.

I ordered a 7260 yoke - only one I could find matching the length of my current one at Summit, and a 1330/7260 combo u-joint. So, I guess that will work.

 

[miller]

I hear ya...as long as it does what you want it to. I knew there are differences between yokes, and u-joints. For mine, let's say I wanted a little more 'beef ', as if I might put a little HP to it. The 7260 is narrower, and smaller diameter u-joints...but still goes round and round. Just normal to use the bigger stuff, when you add HP to the deal.

My 64? Made a wild attempt to add all the 'good stuff (lol)' to it. Pretty much knew most of the weak points, and wanted to deal with it. Plenty of 'em out there just like it.

It's a Sport Fury. 'Upgraded' 69 440 engine, 67 727 trans, 67 8 3/4" rear axle, and biggest disc/drum brakes, all by using later parts and pieces, gluing all together.

I'll toss in, on my trans, I too was looking at the choices on slip yokes. That was the main reason to use a later model trans. But, once I got it out of the dirt, found out what year it was. Maybe bad, maybe good, and the tailshaft splines were badly rusted from sitting outside. So, decided to fit a later output shaft to it, with 29/30 splines, to have easier pick on a slip yoke.

 

[AR67GTX]

All of my servo pistons have metal sealing rings. It seems I see a lot of pictures of servos with rubber O-rings including pictures in the TransGo shift kit instructions I was reading last night. Is one preferred over the other? Which one is considered a better choice? Or does it matter?

It looks like I'll have most of my parts rounded up today except the front planetary. I found a "refurbished" one on Ebay from T'flite Patty that I may try to get. I have a feeling the various gasket, seal and bushing kits I ordered may lack some of the interior seals I will need like the clutch plate o-ring seals and maybe even pump seals - so I may have to wait on a few more pieces.

Got lots of cleaning to do in the meantime though.

 

[miller]

All of my servo pistons have metal sealing rings.

My preference is Teflon seals, though the bores need to be in good shape. Metal rings have worked good for me, too, but Teflon is easier on wear.
Can't help on the Transgo kits, never tried one. Maybe one of the other guys will comment.

 

[dvw]

In my case I have always used the stock metal sealing rings. Seldom are they even worn.
Doug

 

[AR67GTX]

In my case I have always used the stock metal sealing rings. Seldom are they even worn.
Doug

I wouldn't think so riding in an aluminum bore. Guess I'll stick with them.

 

[AR67GTX]

Cleaning parts today and took a close look at this sun gear for the planetary gears. The teeth are a bit irregular and worn on it. It may not show up to well in the photos.




Is it likely this be contributing to the planetary noise? Does this have to be replace very often?

 

[oldbee]

I do believe you found your noise..Replace.IMHO...

 

[oldbee]

Too be truthful, I couldn't see anything wrong planetary's in previous pics but I rush past too much w/o blowing up the pic. But that sun gear has to be it; 3-4 planetary gears spinning on that thing? whew..

 

[miller]

Does this have to be replace very often?

Very rarely! But, it is an easy change. Never have seen one that bad.

 

[AR67GTX]

Thanks - Looking for a replacement. I did find a listing for one at one outlet and also asked T' Flite Patty if they have a new or excellent used one. It does seem to be strange wear and may explain the scoring on the front planetary gear teeth. Fortunately the rear P-gear looks OK although the sun gear teeth back there exhibits some of the same wear pattern. Maybe it was poor surface hardening of the gear. I'm feeling more confident I may end up with a little less whining now. If I can reduce the converter drain back or at least seal it up where all the fluid stays inside the transmission now - I'll be happy.

 

[miller]

Could be wrong , but would think you could get those sun gears all day long.
Good deal is, your getting the pleasure of picking your own parts! Knowing what you have is half the battle, and fun.