Looks normal to me. DVW seem s to be the expert. Noticed a small opening in first picture upper left corner in Post #98 looks made that way? that's where torque converter control valve I believe is.
First questions on my 727 rebuild journey
- Thread starter AR67GTX
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Looked at service m looks like it normal.
miller
Well-Known Member
Sludgy...probably fine particles off clutches, or rings.
The sharp edges on the shift body valves, are also for correct flow on the shifts. Read about it in the book. If any 'polishing' is done on the valves, the edges need to be kept like they are. If the scoring, caused by crap in the fluid, is too bad, probably the valve bores in the body, too...personally, I'd replace it. Too hard to clean up, and those clearances are fairly close, which are needed for a good shift.
But, again...your call...listen to the experts.
Fine scoring is normal. Grey/black muck is normal. Carb cleaner and compressed air will clean it. Carb clean works better than brake clean. Each valve should fall with it's own weight when tipped sideways.
Doug
Doug
Here are some pictures of the converter control valves. After looking at them closer I think they look pretty good. There's a little spot of plaque or tarnish on the one valve that will probably rub off with some 2000 sandpaper. The valve body bores look smooth also.
Overall I think the old transmission is in fair shape except for the converter, accumulator bore, a couple bushings and possibly the front planetary gear.
Overall I think the old transmission is in fair shape except for the converter, accumulator bore, a couple bushings and possibly the front planetary gear.
miller
Well-Known Member
My dead eye was playing tricks, from your first pics.
Looks good! Just a little cleaning/polishing on the valves will fix it up.
Looks good! Just a little cleaning/polishing on the valves will fix it up.
Have we found the source of the whine?
Doug
Doug
Hopefully you're not referring to me.
I'm counting on it being the front planetary with the lightly scored gear teeth. I'm definitely going to replace it. However all I've found so far are a refurbished gear set and expensive billet, straight tooth sets.http://www.chryslertransmissions.co...te-727-front-planetary-4-pinion-gear-set.html
It may not quiet it down a lot but at least maybe the sound of the whine will change for better or worse.
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Thanks AR67GTX for doing this thread!
It may not quiet it down a lot but at least maybe the sound of the whine will change for better or worse.[/QUOTE]
Local trans wholesaler or try Prndl123. Used will be fine. 3 pin is fine. I run a 3 pin behind 900 hp. I probably have some 4 pin. What year output shaft is yours?
Doug
Local trans wholesaler or try Prndl123. Used will be fine. 3 pin is fine. I run a 3 pin behind 900 hp. I probably have some 4 pin. What year output shaft is yours?
Doug
Local trans wholesaler or try Prndl123. Used will be fine. 3 pin is fine. I run a 3 pin behind 900 hp. I probably have some 4 pin. What year output shaft is yours?
Doug[/QUOTE]
It's a 69 transmission so I assume the major contents are 69. It has 4-gear planetary gears in it.
What is Prndl123? I didn't get it to come up with google.
Sorry www.prnddl.com. I'll look tonight when I get home.
Doug
Doug
Yes - I've never dived further into one than a filter change and once to reconnect the throttle valve lever that came disconnected on the valve body. I was going to just pull it and take it down to a transmission shop but everyone sort of dared me to just rebuild it myself. I figured what the hell - I'm rapidly sneaking up on 66 years and haven't ever torn one apart before so better do it now.
I've only got a year on you; pretty fun though,huh?? Course then we can get into 5.0 kickdown levers,hemi frt. drum, AND the big bugaboo--- 2 to 3 shift overlap.!!!!!!!
Having a tough time finding rebuilt or new 4-gear front planetary sets - anyone know of a supplier? I can find new steel cage 5-gear sets but they are about $350.
Also having a heck of a time finding a new, stock 727 sliding yoke for stock 1330 u-joints. Most of them I find are for either larger 1350 u-joints or inside clip u-joints. Anyone know of a source for them?
Also having a heck of a time finding a new, stock 727 sliding yoke for stock 1330 u-joints. Most of them I find are for either larger 1350 u-joints or inside clip u-joints. Anyone know of a source for them?
Could use a 1350 yoke and buy a combination 1350x1330 u-joint. Don't know if you have to re-balance drive shaft. What came out of car? Those 1330 yokes I think are tough to find.
miller
Well-Known Member
I ran into the same thing, on my current build, two years ago, and also the real proud prices on new ones.
I was looking for 4/4 gear sets, front and rear. Wound up finding a useable used set from a local trans shop, one man op. Would be a tough row to try to rebuild them, even if you had access to parts. Any trans parts suppliers local, you could check with?
Guess your wanting to re-use your driveshaft?
Easily can be wrong, but after some research, 1330 joints are for 'light' setups, 1350 for heavier (BB). Of course, on mine, was starting from nothing.
Should be able to find parts at a good driveshaft shop.
I had to do this on the rear one because of the later 489 rear but I was hoping to avoid it on the front. Front yoke on driveshaft and slip yoke are both for a 1330.
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