Five Years of "Chrysler TorqueFlite A-904 & A-727 Transmissions: How to Rebuild".

[khryslerkid]

I may end up just doing that for now... Jegs lists a hughes 19 spline still but hughes doesn't have it on their page so that more than likely isn't a thing..

I think a 19 spline can still be found if you look hard enough. I thought someone was still building them on request.

Depending on your rear gear it might not be necessary. I'm running 3.23 and it doesn't take much to break them loose with a stock converter. If I was running brackets I'd want a good stall for getting out of the hole.

 

[icetech]

I think a 19 spline can still be found if you look hard enough. I thought someone was still building them on request.

Depending on your rear gear it might not be necessary. I'm running 3.23 and it doesn't take much to break them loose with a stock converter. If I was running brackets I'd want a good stall for getting out of the hole.

Yeah.. not gonna worry that much about it for now... no big thing.. gonna just try to get the car mobile and iron it out then i will upgrade as i go.

 

[dvw]

I may end up just doing that for now... Jegs lists a hughes 19 spline still but hughes doesn't have it on their page so that more than likely isn't a thing..

If you need a higher stall converter the swap for the late conveter is easy. If using a stock conveter then its not necesary. But early 18 spline converters are few and far in the performance world. Get a later rear clutch carrier/input shaft assy. Get either a late pump or late reaction shaft support and pump gears. If the donor parts are 1970 or earlier, your front drum will still fit. 71 and newer you need the matching front drum as well. If it's a performance apication make sure the front drum will hold 4 friictions (they have a higher snap ring groove location). Don't leave out the drive ball that connects the rear pump rotor to the shaft if using the stock valve body. They won't shift without the rear pump functioning. TF2 shift kits will work in your stock valve body. Any other push button question just ask. I've been racing them for years.
Doug

 

[icetech]

If you need a higher stall converter the swap for the late conveter is easy. If using a stock conveter then its not necesary. But early 18 spline converters are few and far in the performance world. Get a later rear clutch carrier/input shaft assy. Get either a late pump or late reaction shaft support and pump gears. If the donor parts are 1970 or earlier, your front drum will still fit. 71 and newer you need the matching front drum as well. If it's a performance apication make sure the front drum will hold 4 friictions (they have a higher snap ring groove location). Don't leave out the drive ball that connects the rear pump rotor to the shaft if using the stock valve body. They won't shift without the rear pump functioning. TF2 shift kits will work in your stock valve body. Any other push button question just ask. I've been racing them for years.
Doug

Thanks for the info and help doug, i'm sure i will need more before the end.. for now i'm not gonna sweat the converter thing too much.. just wanna get the car on the road this summer before i burn out on it Starting to order parts for my motor.. and... man crap is expensive now.. and then i also get to wait 4 months for them to show up.. fun time we live on

P.S. building a small block... had a ton of BB b-bodies when younger, never ran a small block before and kind of interested to see how i can do with it..

 

[dvw]

Thanks for the info and help doug, i'm sure i will need more before the end.. for now i'm not gonna sweat the converter thing too much.. just wanna get the car on the road this summer before i burn out on it Starting to order parts for my motor.. and... man crap is expensive now.. and then i also get to wait 4 months for them to show up.. fun time we live on

P.S. building a small block... had a ton of BB b-bodies when younger, never ran a small block before and kind of interested to see how i can do with it..

I feel your pain. I spun a bearing and broke a rod in May 2021. Had to weld and sleeve the block. Weld the head. Weld the oil pan. Bore, hone, line hone, deck, balance, lifter bushings, valve job, mill heads. New crank, rods, bearings, pistons, rings, valves, springs. Didn't get back out until 2022. Did a lot of side jobs to cover that cost. The 360 small block stuff runs pretty well. Not to hard to build a easy 12 second street cruiser.
Doug

 

[icetech]

I feel your pain. I spun a bearing and broke a rod in May 2021. Had to weld and sleeve the block. Weld the head. Weld the oil pan. Bore, hone, line hone, deck, balance, lifter bushings, valve job, mill heads. New crank, rods, bearings, pistons, rings, valves, springs. Didn't get back out until 2022. Did a lot of side jobs to cover that cost. The 360 small block stuff runs pretty well. Not to hard to build a easy 12 second street cruiser.
Doug

Jesus that's an insane amount of machine work.. hope it was a special block I'm actually just doing a 318 (MAYBE 390).. TFS heads (4 months backordered..) RPM intake... blah blah.. just a good street setup.. I got an 85 block which is a LA block with a magnum valley so i can use a factory spider/dogbones and roller lifters which i trust more than aftermarket (had a roller lifter die and eat a motor once)

The only thing stopping me from going 390 is finding a local machine shop i can trust (just north of Detroit).. last 2 times i had a block done they messed it up. one was a 400BB, just had it cleaned and cam bearings done.. guy didn't line up the oil hole.. which i didn't think to even check, luckily a cam also wouldn't fit in it. He actually tried to say i spun the cam bearing while putting the cam in which i can't even imagine how that is possible.

P.S. just to say it before someone chimes in... give me a REAL tangible reason to make a 408 instead of a 390 or don't mention it
(not you personally, but everytime i mention 318 or 390 the 360 guys have to talk it down) ... it's 18 cubes.. not worth finding another block. Unless there is some magic that the number 408 creates that i don't know about..

 

[dvw]

Jesus that's an insane amount of machine work.. hope it was a special block I'm actually just doing a 318 (MAYBE 390).. TFS heads (4 months backordered..) RPM intake... blah blah.. just a good street setup.. I got an 85 block which is a LA block with a magnum valley so i can use a factory spider/dogbones and roller lifters which i trust more than aftermarket (had a roller lifter die and eat a motor once)

The only thing stopping me from going 390 is finding a local machine shop i can trust (just north of Detroit).. last 2 times i had a block done they messed it up. one was a 400BB, just had it cleaned and cam bearings done.. guy didn't line up the oil hole.. which i didn't think to even check, luckily a cam also wouldn't fit in it. He actually tried to say i spun the cam bearing while putting the cam in which i can't even imagine how that is possible.

P.S. just to say it before someone chimes in... give me a REAL tangible reason to make a 408 instead of a 390 or don't mention it
(not you personally, but everytime i mention 318 or 390 the 360 guys have to talk it down) ... it's 18 cubes.. not worth finding another block. Unless there is some magic that the number 408 creates that i don't know about..

I did a Magnum 360 with Eddy heads. 9.0-1, mild hyd roller, RPM intake. 3.23, low gearset 904. in a 68 Satellite convertible. It ran very well. For machine work. Dave Harmon at 248 778 8133 Looks old school and messsy. But he knows his stuff.
Doug

 

[icetech]

I did a Magnum 360 with Eddy heads. 9.0-1, mild hyd roller, RPM intake. 3.23, low gearset 904. in a 68 Satellite convertible. It ran very well. For machine work. Dave Harmon at 248 778 8133 Looks old school and messsy. But he knows his stuff.
Doug

i like old school and messy.. it means they actually do work The best diners were always the ones that looked like you were gonna catch something there...

 

[dvw]

His work speaks for itself.
Doug

 

[icetech]

His work speaks for itself.
Doug

View attachment 1405283

Damn man.. that's awesome.. i just want a nice low 12/high 11 street beater Main thing for me is making something that won't blow up.. i like overkill. I will give him a call this week.. was planning to space out the stroker kit til next year to help the pain of paying for it but since heads are gonna take forever.. i got time
Money is a weird thing.. i grew up super broke and to this day i rarely ever spend a penny on myself i don't have to.. i think the worry never leaves.

 

[Mike 71X]

Sounds like this is the book for me. Would like to swap a '68 case for a 71. The 68 was already rebuilt so my thought is I can just move the parts from one case to the other. Sound reasonable or am I missing something? Never touched the inside of a transmission before so sounds like a huge job to me but I keep seeing comments like its not that crazy to do.

 

[SF_James]

I just read Tom's book. Very informative, but light on the units made before the change over about 4 month into 1965. The flange units went into the 1965's until about January of 1965. You can see the change in the Master Parts book.

I picked one up to use in a 1964 300K.

One thing I would like to have seen in the book was some discussion on the rear pump. With the rear pump the cars will compression stop going down a mountain. They can also be push started. With a heavy car and drum brakes, the rear pump is a nice to have item.

On this particular 300K, I am building for cross country trips, I would have liked to have more discussion on HD or Towing modifications as apposed to higher HP and Race Discussion. I am sure that many of the modifications for more horsepower or racing are applicable, but it would have been more helpful to specify which items would be overkill.

Also, in the age of raising fuel costs, a little more discussion of changes to the transmission and/or the converter would be appropriate with a numerically lower rear end ratio. I also would have liked to see some discussion on Hemi Andersen's commentary on the factory end-play range being was too much.

In my case the HP 413 is no slouch, but with a 2.76 rear-end the take off is leisurely. (yes, I swapped out the 3.23)

I worry about the converter stall speed being below the cruise RPM and generating heat. I called a couple of converter re builders and seem to struggle with the concept. I wish Tom had talked about those situations a little more.

All in all a good book. Just a little lacking in the older stuff as well as discussion on the "appropriate" modifications for heavy duty but but not racetrack usage.

I am leaning to replacing almost everything I can as I never want to go back into this transmission again. I plan on using better disks and plates, and a bolt in sprag. I had a buddy in high school that did a 2-1 downshift with 4.xx gears and it blew apart. left an impression on me.

I may also look into A&A wide ratio planetary, not because of low power, but low gear ratio. Trying to get a "correct" set up with the HP 300K but the New Yorker highway rear end gears.

James