Found a pleasant surprise. Need help from pros and experienced folks to make next decisions.

[Challenger340]

Another inconvenient/harsh statement nobody likes to hear ?

From the COMETIC Website
"A surface finish of 50 RA (roughness average) or finer, is recommended for a proper gasket seal. Anything rougher may conflict with the gasket design."
https://www.cometic.com/tech-support

Refers to both the Heads and the Block finish present.

 

[Challenger340]

That's a harsh assessment, seems to me he's still asking questions and trying to figure out a low budget solution.

Worth noting the Whiplash cam is likely tough on the valve train. Idle quality is poor and tough to tune but yes it will make some power.
Depends what you want and like.

Didn't intend to be harsh so much as respond according to the threads TITLE being
"Need help from pros and experienced folks to make next decisions."
IMO,
After sitting for so long ? 30 years "open" Lifter Gallery ? ? /rust ? (see the Pics on Page 1)
The OP is well advised, again IMO for best results... that there is no nice way around the fact that this Engine really should come apart and be checked ?
Full disclosure at that point as well...again IMO, would be to inform the OP that he is also well advised to consider New Pistons for a more conducive Cylinder Pressure while it is apart ?
a few pages later....
and Presto.... no intention to be harsh, but the popular course of action ? unless I am mis-understanding something ? is to now bolt the Engine together 'as is' without checking anything internally ? the only real 'decisions' being Heads and the Whiplash Cam stamp of approval ?
You are going to take it apart FIRST right ?

My apologies here if I seem "harsh".... not intended, but I just feel you are well advised to STOP.... and reconsider the basic FIRST step of taking this Engine apart for inspection/assessment/checking after it sitting 'open' for 30 years ?
Any "low budget' solutions afterwards being a moot point until you know it's a viable Engine for usage ?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Spot On...

 

[TX73SE]

Thanks to all for your input... my primary questions were to determine compression ratio... I’ve owned Ford mustangs, a GTO, an old impala and a classic chevy pickup... I’ve never experienced such disrespect for asking a simple question: help determining compression ratio, and if the heads were shaved.


That being said, I appreciate your perspective and wish you well in your future endeavors. The way I was raised, if you give respect, you get respect.


Life’s too short to get caught up in negativity in a discussion board.

All the best to you and yours.
Dan

Didn't intend to be harsh so much as respond according to the threads TITLE being
"Need help from pros and experienced folks to make next decisions."
IMO,
After sitting for so long ? 30 years "open" Lifter Gallery ? ? /rust ? (see the Pics on Page 1)
The OP is well advised, again IMO for best results... that there is no nice way around the fact that this Engine really should come apart and be checked ?
Full disclosure at that point as well...again IMO, would be to inform the OP that he is also well advised to consider New Pistons for a more conducive Cylinder Pressure while it is apart ?
a few pages later....
and Presto.... no intention to be harsh, but the popular course of action ? unless I am mis-understanding something ? is to now bolt the Engine together 'as is' without checking anything internally ? the only real 'decisions' being Heads and the Whiplash Cam stamp of approval ?
You are going to take it apart FIRST right ?

My apologies here if I seem "harsh".... not intended, but I just feel you are well advised to STOP.... and reconsider the basic FIRST step of taking this Engine apart for inspection/assessment/checking after it sitting 'open' for 30 years ?
Any "low budget' solutions afterwards being a moot point until you know it's a viable Engine for usage ?

 

[TX73SE]

Looking at the head pic, you NEED to replace the springs due to rust, so get the springs that match the cam.

I am I’m full agreement. If I run these heads, they’ll get a spring kit to match whatever cam I run, thanks for your input.

 

[IQ52]

"..............With this new info I’m trying to adjust and make a better decision since I don't need to pull the short block. (italics mine)


Thanks in advance for any and all thoughts."

Daniel

WRONG! (bold caps mine) Looking at your provided pictures the engine needs to be completely dismantled and cleaned or it will destroy itself shortly after initial fire up.

Your compression ratio is approximately 7.5:1

Unpleasant as they may be, those are my thoughts.........Jim

Oh............
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/dyno-a-7-5-1-400-sure-why-not.293381/

Please, feel free to ignore the harsh Challenger340 and myself, between us we haven't enough experience to fill a thimble.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

"..............With this new info I’m trying to adjust and make a better decision since I don't need to pull the short block. (italics mine)


Thanks in advance for any and all thoughts."

Daniel

WRONG! (bold caps mine) Looking at your provided pictures the engine needs to be completely dismantled and cleaned or it will destroy itself shortly after initial fire up.

Your compression ratio is approximately 7.5:1

Unpleasant as they may be, those are my thoughts.........Jim

Oh............
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/dyno-a-7-5-1-400-sure-why-not.293381/

Please, feel free to ignore the harsh Challenger340 and myself, between us we haven't enough experience to fill a thimble.

Yup... Couple rookies....

 

[Babyblue66]

View attachment 1099456 View attachment 1099457 I appreciate it guys... there is no rust in the bores. Just some dust, I cleaned it up looks like good cross hatching still. I rubbed oil on the piston tops and the bores to be safe until I figure out next steps.
What would you think about using as is with the 906 heads and the Hughes whiplash cam that’s specifically made for lower compression engines?
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...V2hpcGxhc2ggTXVzY2xlIENhciBjYW1z&partid=30173



thanks again for the input. It’s greatly appreciated. I will say if I have to tear it down and replace pistons, any funds for aluminum heads is probably out the window As I’d need a machine shop to help me with the reassembly. My prayer when I saw this was they’d work well with the edelbrock 74cc aluminum heads. Or roll with the 906s and the whiplash cam to better compensate.

These were just my thoughts based on reading the forums regarding lower compression. The two cams I’ve considered would be the whiplash cam or the summit k6401.

The whiplash cams do make power in a low compression engine. You won't be able to run power brakes, you'll need your distributor curved with a lot of initial advance, and it'd be good to have a stall around 2500. I have one in a 7.5 to 1 440 I built over the winter. It made 415hp on the dyno. No bullshit! And yes you have to take it apart clean and inspect it first. Unless you want to take it apart and replace all the bearing shortly after you get it running.

 

[glen e gates]

Didn't intend to be harsh so much as respond according to the threads TITLE being
"Need help from pros and experienced folks to make next decisions."
IMO,
After sitting for so long ? 30 years "open" Lifter Gallery ? ? /rust ? (see the Pics on Page 1)
The OP is well advised, again IMO for best results... that there is no nice way around the fact that this Engine really should come apart and be checked ?
Full disclosure at that point as well...again IMO, would be to inform the OP that he is also well advised to consider New Pistons for a more conducive Cylinder Pressure while it is apart ?
a few pages later....
and Presto.... no intention to be harsh, but the popular course of action ? unless I am mis-understanding something ? is to now bolt the Engine together 'as is' without checking anything internally ? the only real 'decisions' being Heads and the Whiplash Cam stamp of approval ?
You are going to take it apart FIRST right ?

My apologies here if I seem "harsh".... not intended, but I just feel you are well advised to STOP.... and reconsider the basic FIRST step of taking this Engine apart for inspection/assessment/checking after it sitting 'open' for 30 years ?
Any "low budget' solutions afterwards being a moot point until you know it's a viable Engine for usage ?

 

[glen e gates]

send it to the machine shop when u have rust in the cylinder hope like h they can bore it out or put a sleeve in but it is a total rebuild to save the motor spend the money do it wright

 

[68-500]

A lot of good advice here. I would recommend at least pulling the oil pan and timing cover to look inside gaskets are very affordable. I would also measure how far your pistons are below deck then you can make an informed cam choice. Keep your 906’s if they are actually fresh, use a steel shim head gasket,get correct springs for your specific cam.

 

[Runcharger]

He may have left when he didn't hear what he wanted to. He never did give a deck measurement or indicate that the engine had been taken down as suggested and cleaned up.
I find this common on message boards and yet people still try to give good advice.

 

[dadsbee]

Hasn't been back since a few minutes after his tantrum after not hearing what he wanted to.

 

[RemCharger]

Hasn't been back since a few minutes after his tantrum after not hearing what he wanted to.

Try running a shop lol