fresh 440 build has 90 lbs of oil pressure at idle

[YY1]

glad you got it

 

[jprather]

By 'switch', assuming you mean relief valve.
There was your problem. No pressure relief...oil pressure too high, rubber seals getting blown out.
I'd also bet...at first, with no oil pressure...relief valve was jammed OPEN. Barn door got slammed shut, closed, and jammed in place.

Builder's fault 100%! Slapping crap together.

Even I'm dumb enough, with a new oil pump, to tear it down, look and make sure things are okay.

Builder did swap oil pump after the no pressure then too much pressure. this was another new oil pump.. 2 bad pumps back to back from melling
I spoke to him last night, he is out of town on vaca.. said send him receipts and oil pump and he will reimburse.. also gave me #'s for bearing clearances !

so, he is standing by his work !

 

[Challenger340]

big red flag.. when i first went down, it would not build oil pressure, there were no galley plugs put in behind the water pump housing, he said machine shaop was supposed to put them in and he never checked behind them. But I am way to trusting

So if I am understanding correctly here, your Engine assembler does NOT do the machining ? He relies on a "Machine Shop" to do the "machining", then he picks up the machined parts and assembles them ?
Still incumbent upon your Assembler to CHECK all Bearing Clearances when assembling, as being satisfactory for the application/intended usage, and to take them BACK for re-Machining/adjustment if NOT to his liking ? Which compounds the costs/efficiency of being an Engine assembler vrs a "builder" who BOTH Machines to HIS Liking and then Assembles his own product.
Just say'in....
when assembling someone else's Machining.... what happens when something or a Bearing "clearance" is NOT quite where you want it ? NOT like you can just walk over to the Rod Resizing Machine and hone a bit to ADD a bit of Bearing clearance more conducive ?
NO, you gotta pack it up.... take it back to the Machine Shop.... come back later and pick it up and try again ??
"Time is Money" if you get my drift ?
And just who is warrantee'ing WHAT for the 12 months here ?
The Machine Shop ? The Engine RAN didn't it ?
The Assembler ? The Engine RAN didn't it ?
IMO, if you experience a problem ? you may also experience a bunch of finger pointing back and forth until ultimately it costs YOU money ?


It is good that the Std Volume Oil Pump you installed brought pressure down sufficiently, nonetheless, if it were me ? I would still be suspect of what actual Bearing Clearances are present within the Engine given the intended "performance" application ?
Again here,
Bearings subjected to higher rpm & loads(performance) are exposed to higher Heat.... which that Heat is removed by the free flow of lifeblood Oil IN and OUT again constantly replaced by cooler Oil IN again.... hence the need for some added Bearing clearance as insurance in "performance" applications ?
Even Chrysler factory "HP" and so-called "Magnum" engines came down a side assembly line with Cranks selected that were ground Mid to Low-side of spec to provide some extra Bearing Clearance versus their "stock" brethren ?
Same-same for Piston selection etc., "D" Pistons went in "E" holes, etc., etc.

If you are now satisfied with your Oil Pressure using the Std Volume Oil Pump and thinner Oil, I would suggest monitoring your actual Oil TEMPS moving forward given IMO, you have tight Engine Bearing Oil Clearances.... or at the very least if you experience a HOT running Engine in the Water Temp, then add an Oil Temp gauge as a possible root cause.
Yes, I am saying TIGHT Engine Bearing Clearances can also INCREASE Engine Water Temps, as Oil Temps rise.

Good luck with that phone call.

 

[TrackPack]

Running a HV oil pump, and installing a lighter spring only appears to me as a waste of energy as all the extra volume is thrown back to the sump and also causes more friction which increases unnecessary heat.

The real answer has to be.....it all depends. The pump/spring (or adjustable spring) combination needs to be blueprinted to your specific application, there are countless variables. One size does not fit all.

 

[TrackPack]

Builder did swap oil pump after the no pressure then too much pressure. this was another new oil pump.. 2 bad pumps back to back from melling
I spoke to him last night, he is out of town on vaca.. said send him receipts and oil pump and he will reimburse.. also gave me #'s for bearing clearances !

so, he is standing by his work !

If you want to sell those bad pumps....let me know, I need some parts.

 

[YY1]

interesting case of "what are the odds?"

that's pretty typical of anything I'm involved in

 

[Bee1971]

“I spoke to him last night, he is out of town on vaca.. said send him receipts and oil pump and he will reimburse.. also gave me #'s for bearing clearances !”

What where the main and rod bearing clearances he gave you ?

 

[Challenger340]

“I spoke to him last night, he is out of town on vaca.. said send him receipts and oil pump and he will reimburse.. also gave me #'s for bearing clearances !”

What where the main and rod bearing clearances he gave you ?

That's what I would like to know as well ?
Curious what the Main & Rod Bearing Clearances are ?
and,
why they weren't included in the assembly Engine's paperwork along with ring end gaps, cam degree, piston to wall clrc., pin-fitting and on and on and on ?

 

[jprather]

i'm not an engine builder, so I MAY have this wrong.... .18 or .0018 ??

 

[beanhead]

Would be .0018, is that rods or mains? I think that's considered on the tight side, but maybe the pros will weigh in on that? I'm .0027 main/ .002 on the rods and get 60-65 lbs at high cruise 2500-3000 rpm with the (builder recommended) 15-50 oil and my old melling high-pressure pump. Idles down to about 20-25 lbs which is fine for me..

 

[PRHeads]

just installed a 440 build by a "professional builder " when I went to pick up motor, it pegged the oil pressure gauge, blew out rear main seal and oil filter ( was on run stand ) . builder says he put a new oil pump on and fixed read main and replaced oil filter, I went back picked up motor, still on run stand, he ran it, all looked find, but he did not have oil pressure gauge hooked up, I dont remember his reason why.

just got it all plumbed and wired up yesterday, fired it up, still has 90 lbs of oil pressure at idle, and pegs pressure gauge at 1500 rpms, blew out oil filter seal again.

Imo, that whole scenario is very fishy.

Go to pick motor up and the oil pressure gauge is disconnected?
To me that says he knew the pressure was too high and sent you home with the motor anyway.

I’m also pretty skeptical that there were two oil pumps involved here.

 

[Challenger340]

Imo, that whole scenario is very fishy.

Go to pick motor up and the oil pressure gauge is disconnected?
To me that says he knew the pressure was too high and sent you home with the motor anyway.

I’m also pretty skeptical that there were two oil pumps involved here.

VERY fishy indeed !

 

[Challenger340]

i'm not an engine builder, so I MAY have this wrong.... .18 or .0018 ??

.0018" would explain lots around your 90psi Oil pressure,.

 

[jprather]

I know he changed the oil pump, 1st one was painted, 2nd was now and was obviously new. He is standing by his work.

and I gotta say, drove it for the 1st time wednesday late afternoon, its a BEAST

 

[YY1]

you got a dyno sheet?

or did they do that?

 

[jprather]

you got a dyno sheet?

or did they do that?

no dyno, but hope to get it to a shop with a dyno and have it fine tuned in the near future

 

[YY1]

I believe "Jimmy's Auto Clinic" in Lakeland has a chassis dyno.

They're Mopar guys, too.

 

[PRHeads]

Hopefully you get many miles of enjoyment out if it.

 

[jprather]

I believe "Jimmy's Auto Clinic" in Lakeland has a chassis dyno.

They're Mopar guys, too.

Jimmy's no longer dyontunes !

 

[YY1]

Whaaaaat?