Fresh 727 leaking oil from the inspection plate?

[miller]

Some thing that worries me was the amount of metallic in the bottom of the pan, very fine, like when you sand metal with a high grit paper.

I donno if it's toast or not but it might be time to take it to a specialist.

Sorry to hear that, Malicious.

Unfortunately, if it's making metal, there's only one way to find out where it's coming from, and what needs to be fixed, or replaced. Your looking at a complete tear-down to do it right, including (at the very least) a good flush of the converter.
Even that real fine metal, getting into the shift body, will lock it down, meaning the slide valves are sticking. The clearances are VERY close on them, and doesn't take much.
So, even if the fluid is getting there...nothing. Probably looking at burned clutch packs, maybe both, or the bands.

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Just a last note...I've seen my share of 'em overhauled at a shop, and the trans was going to make metal, no matter what you do. Not saying that's the deal, though. Just one of those things. Trans have to be broken in, too.

 

[Malicious]

Just doing some research, saw you can remove the valve body in the car, would pulling that and cleaning it make any difference? Then maybe using a heavier weight fluid?

If that's no good I'm finding time to pull the trans in the weekend.

 

[miller]

Believe me...know that kinda stuff is frustrating. No such thing as 'heavier' trans fluid, it is what it is.

Sure thing on dropping the shift body, while trans is still in the car. GET INFO on your trans, model, year, etc.

Have in your hands good reference on 'your' shift body, before you pull it. You'll be looking at a particular shift body number, locations of check balls, various shifting valves, where they go, and how the go into the body. Absolutely clean is the name of the game on these things.
While you have the shift body out, you can see the clutch drums, bands and the like. Look for signs of heat, metal turned blue, or burnt.

How much metal is the big ? Some say a 'little' is normal on a new re-build...I don't. Neither here, or there. But, at least having a look, won't hurt. Might as well know though, busting into the trans could wipe out any warranty on the work. Your call.

Getting to the pump is a different story. Trans must be pulled. Good luck on it.

 

[Malicious]

Hers some pics of the valve body. Anyone recognize it?

Fount a couple of flakes of metal in the valve body, looked brassish? Looked like the would have already been in the system and ended up there rather than broken/shaved off.

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Sorry pics of the valve body... Number on the plate 045

 

[miller]

From here, Malicious, it all looks good. Don't see any galling on the valves, drums look good. Do the valves slide easily in the body, without sticking?

In the first photo, trying to make out the pickup. Too dark...had you already pulled the filter? All extended pickups I've used were aluminum, the filter attaching to the bottom surface.

Only you know how much loose metal is in there. Fluid looks clean. A 'few' flakes could be normal, like your describing, coming off a new spacer, or the like...usually bronze.

But, some reason it's not picking up fluid, or if it is, not making pressure. Might be plain as the nose on your face! If it all looks as good as it does, just look closely at things. You have any kind of manual?

 

[Roadrunner528]

Thought I had issues with mine.
The o ring on the dipstick tube was leaking, running the lip and leaking out at dust cover. The fluid in the converter would leak down some when sitting for a while and would raise the fluid high enough to leak thru the o ring seal.

 

[miller]

Maybe I'm just seeing things wrong. Photos #4 and 5...rear servo piston...is it there??

Guess it is. Main things causing no shift is bad pump, problem in shift body, problem with servos. If you have a book, since the valve body is off, there's ports you can apply air to, testing the servos.

 

[Malicious]

Not sure on the rear servo, the only thing that has come out is the pan, filter, extension and then valve body. Nothing else came out. I'm a bit concerned about what it is, because of the block off plates (brassish plates on the valve body), I haven't sen them in any of my images searches...

Also the whole time my kick down lever had no pressure or spring back. In fact the box never came with a kick down lever(on the outside gear selector), I had to source one. I have heard people say that some times manual valve bodies can be picked by a lack of kick down lever (on the gear selector shaft). Thats why I'm keen to work out what the valve body is, because if it is a manual, I don't want it. Just looking for a slightly worked cruiser.

 

[miller]

Not sure on the rear servo, the only thing that has come out is the pan, filter, extension and then valve body. Nothing else came out. I'm a bit concerned about what it is, because of the block off plates (brassish plates on the valve body)

Thats why I'm keen to work out what the valve body is, because if it is a manual, I don't want it. Just looking for a slightly worked cruiser.

Pretty sure the rear servo is right (just looked odd, when I first saw it), been two years since I've been in one. But, as mentioned, there's air into port tests that can be done, to be sure they are working right.

Re-looking at the valve body, quite possible it could be modified. Those brass plates don't seem stock. Problem is there's so many modifications that can be done to these things, hard to keep track. I've only built 727B's, so not aware of the difs.
The kick-down lever valve should be spring loaded, so that probably another sign. Never been a fan of some of those mods, except for all out racing. Surprised no one else hasn't chimed in on this, who's used some of the shift kit stuff.

But, that's what your probably looking at. Stock shift bodies can be had fairly cheap. Sorry not much help...just don't know much on the shift kit stuff...never needed it. Any chance the rebuild shop could tell you anything?

 

[Malicious]

Google images to the rescue. Its a Transgo TF-3 full manual conversion. Found the instructions, I'm going to look over it now. However I don't want a full manual box, anyone converted a manualised box back to auto? or do I need a new one?

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Also, being a full manual box, would it need to be filled etc in a different way?

It came with a shallow pan, would I be better off going back to a shallow pan to see if it engages properly that way?

 

[Malicious]

Cleaned out the valve body, all seamed good except this piece: it seems to have been filed. Also the transgo instructions high light the small ledge as only being on a 76 and later valve body, but I think this might be a pre 76 unit. Could this cause issues?

 

[miller]

Shouldn't matter on pan depth, as long as the pickup fits the pan.

You can go through the Transgo instructions, to see what all is done...at very least that valve would need to be replaced, since it's been 'worked'. Good you found the instructions! Doesn't mean it was done right, though. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!!!
When you had the trans overhauled, did you ask for that valve body, or to have the 'kit' added?

Any rate, if things were right, it would shift. Don't suppose you have a copy of the 727 handbook. It tells anything you ever wanted to know on 'em, including simple, but effective things to do on them.


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Little side note...it's only the valve body (brains of the trans) that's be modified. Rest of the trans should be good to go, as long as the pump is okay. Change the valve body, and hit the road.

 

[Malicious]

Good to know on the valve body! Saves me some dollars. I'll start looking. Is a valve body from a small block 727 or 904 going to work?

Definitely going to have to pick up a book. But it looks like the box is going to have to come out either way. Might pick up a converter to suit this time.

With the rebuild, it came from the states already built with the car. All I got was that it was rebuilt and ready to use. Probably should have dug into it, but I was hoping to just get it in and going. Wasn't expecting it to be built for drag racing.

Alright, out she comes and off to the shop.

 

[miller]

Good to know on the valve body! Saves me some dollars. I'll start looking. Is a valve body from a small block 727 or 904 going to work?

No. But don't quote me on that (what the hell do I know!). Far as I know, to get the right shift body, trans type, in your case a 727B for big block, and year.

Up to you if you pull the trans. At least the pump could be checked, and all the working parts. Just need to check line pressure adjustment on the 'new' shift body, just a measurement.

My current build, have total of $250ish in my 727B, plus cost of converter, and that includes the $100 the out of the dirt trans cost. Modified to my liking.

 

[miller]

No. But don't quote me on that (what the hell do I know!).

Flat wrong on that...guess they are the same.