From 3 to 4 Now to a 5 Speed - Installing the 5spd Tremec into a B Body!

[Kern Dog]

I'm surprised to see the K E I S L E R name still cast into the bellhousing.

*** Edited the word KEISLER because I screwed it up.***

 

[Dennis H]

Word Police. It’s Keisler.

 

[Will-Fonkjam]

Yep, I also still have the T-shirt they sent me too! Because I purchased from Keisler a kit to convert the 727 to an 833 and not their 5spd Tremec, I got the aluminum bell housing. The only difference between the Tremec & A833 is the retainer (large hole) dia.

So. here's what I have after another day of social isolation...

The Tremec wants to sit a bit forward than the panel template suggests. So, more cutting is required. Hence, a perfect reason not to have burned it in yet!

I need to move it an inch or so forward.

 

[Will-Fonkjam]

I had to make a few modifications in order for things to fit just right.

First, cut up the patch panel and put it where it needs to be.

Second, remove a bit more metal from the tunnel so that the Tremec is centered w/o interference. It looks ugly but the plate will now cover it perfectly!

Finally, place this with that and....this is what it looks like welded & sealed!

Final mock up. Notice the 1" forward offset I had to create in the patch panel.

Next... bell housing TIR alignment tasks.

 

[Will-Fonkjam]

Back at it!
Good thing I hadn't driven the Coronet with the 4spd yet because the pilot hole to bell housing alignment was likely way out of OEM specification. TIR measurements I took with the TREMEC bell housing showed it was .027 biased (.0135) at the 12 O'clock position. This is likely due to the block having being line bored. It is a huge stroker motor! To compensate I ordered .014 adjustable dowels from Brewer's'.

The unexpected challenge this time was removing the dowel pins and pilot bushing. fortunately I had help from some good friends: Patience and Determination.

Oh, the grease or bread extraction hack seen on Youtube won't remove the stubborn outer ring of my pilot bearing and the bearing puller can't grip it either! Key: drill/tap or weld.

Note to self: When welding on your back, be prepared for the burn!

 

[watermelon]

yep....those dowel pins...

i did same with my mig....just added enough metal on the pin to grab with vise grips and spin against a pry bar. that was an experience.

im still welding on my back closing up some floor pan gaps. youll be driving before i finish mine.


watermelon

 

[moparedtn]

Asking the obvious... the shifter isn't going to smite thine fingers against the dash in 1st/3rd, is it?

 

[Will-Fonkjam]

I was concerned too but there is good clearance.

 

[Will-Fonkjam]

Back at it!
Offset dowel pins arrived from Brewer's and installed. After all adjustments, and there were a many, finally got it to .002 T.I.R. Note: Tightening sequence can effect this! Future plans includes adding EFI so I added bongs with plugs to both headed tubes although kits only require one.
Offset dowels:

Took some time, but finally got it to .002; spec is +/- .005:

O2 Sensor bong & cap ready for weld. I added one to each tube (optional).

Hydraulic bearing position w/2 spacers (tough to see in image but there are .250 thick ea. between the retainer & throw-out bearing). Install kit explains this.

Next... Final install, add oil, lower car then measure for drive shaft & to send to SST for the new drive shaft already included in package price.

 

[Will-Fonkjam]

DONE! except a few miscellaneous items. Order a 58 1/2" long driveshaft (w) U joints for a 1330 yoke, splice in the wiring connections, connect the speedo cable, bleed the clutch, install inspection cover -not necessarily in that order, but that's about all that's left!

I also modified this $20 universal driveshaft to bolt onto the supplied crossmember.

 

[Kern Dog]

Future plans includes adding EFI so I added bongs.

They legalized pot in Illinois ?

 

[watermelon]

i might copy that driveshaft loop if you dont mind

looking good



watermelon

 

[Aron]

This is a fantastic thread!!! Thank you for posting in such great detail. I am using the Pandemic for the same reason : starting my '68 Charger rebuild. And, like you, I got the SST manual swap kit in the mail. I finished my US Car Tool subframe connectors, four torque boxes and I have the radiator support on the way. I'm about to crack into the Tremec swap, then I came across your thread, it's awesome!! The difference is I am swapping it into a 727 auto car that was never manual. I have a few strategy questions, I would LOVE your insights:

1. Big Picture: After I finish the suspension, brakes and perhaps the gas tank, I plan on sending it out for paint and body - it is completely stripped down right now - all body panels are on but interior is stripped, engine is out and engine bay is cleared out. I plan to have it media blasted, blocked, primed and painted. (I cannot afford a full rotisserie resto - not in the budget and the car is pretty clean and rust free anyway.) One of the things I would like done by the shop I choose is smoothing the firewall. If you were at my stage, would you install the trans now or would you wait until it came back from paint and body?

2. Small questions from a mechanical idiot:
a. After you welded the patch panel in after making the adjustments, you said you sealed it - what does that mean? Do the SST instructions address this? I am a VERY new welder -- my subframe welds score a solid 2 on a scale of 1-10 pretty welds....turns out it's damn hard to lay down dimes when you're way out of position under jack stands.

Those are all I have for now - thanks again for posting this, really cool read and very timely. My only friends are patience and determination as well....;)

-Aron
[email protected]

 

[watermelon]

Aron -

I’d install after all body work is done and before interior goes in. Welds generally are Tack welds and you’d want to alternate side so as to not make the metal warp from the heat; good practice for a new welder. Also, for “sealing it up”, after metal hump goes in you need to seal it up with some 3M Seam Sealer (caulking).


Will -

I have a question on the CSC measurement. Without any 1/4” spacers installed, my measurement came right within the spec range and was 0.28125”. I probably already have my answer but was going to ask anyway: If my CSC measurement without any spacers is 0.28125”(within spec range), I do not need to install the spacers correct?

Any feedback is appreciated.


Thanks,

Watermelon

 

[watermelon]

Hello Will-fonkjam,

did the new driveshaft come in?

how did the driveshaft loop you built end up working? ive got exact same loop in a box


thanks,

watermelon

 

[Will-Fonkjam]

It seems I need to catch up...

1st Watermelon - Yes! Go ahead copy the driveshaft hump mod! Lesson learned: Tack weld & test fit with driveshaft in place before final weld as clearances can be tight!

2nd Aron - I sent a PM to answer your Q's. Basically I would do all prep before final paint if budget, time and/or skills allow. The hump work will get covered by carpet anyways! Also, welding was new to me before I took on this restore-modification adventure (not just the transmission mod. I also needed frame connects). I practiced welding techniques and equipment setup on scrap parts before welding on the Coronet convert.

3rd Watermelon - Drive shaft came in. My measurement (relaxed on all 4s) was spot on & fit is nice! Loop: I've only driven the car out the garage & into the street to turn it around so no real time test data yet. However, plan is to add a rubber insulator on top of loop because it seems like it just might hit the tunnel as things flex.

Will-Fonkjam

 

[Will-Fonkjam]

Hey, I got something new I want to share with FBBO, but 1st here's a short video I put together marking the day it finally moved under its' own power. Yes, I did all the restoration work myself -even the paint in that tight garage!

Soon I'll be starting a new thread of me installing the convertible top.....ugh boy!
I'll call it "Some Nerve - Convertible Top Installation"

For now enjoy this video!

 

[watermelon]

thats awesome!!! congrats!

i could see those paint spray test patterns on the plastic sheeting. very cool.

so its a Coronet 500. i am partial to those. mine is a 66 Coronet 500.



watermelon

 

[CoronetDarter]

Very inspirational video. And there's no better rear end on a car than on the Coronet 500 and R/T.

 

[Will-Fonkjam]

Thanks!
Plus now I think I've found a good use for all the security camera footage.