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From Ren n nator to stock orange box

I'll be happy to buy that rev n nator from you send a PM, wouldn't mind having a spare. Ive been using one off and on since 2016 with a blaster II or revnnator coil. it runs great on a 499. Chrome box is my backup ECU.
 
Back when these were first introduced, there were some magazines that did tests comparing them to other factory styled ECUs.
One test was done by Dunnick Racing. I clearly remember that name. The article was published in Mopar Muscle magazine.
They flat out GUSHED over the Rev-N-Nator. The dyno testing they provided showed some dubious claims of increases over a stock ECU.
I bought in to the hype and bought one.
It worked fine and the rev limiter was a great feature but I noticed no HP gains with it. I ran the timing right at the limit of detonation (Backed off just short of knocking) and it wasn't any faster than before. The unit may have been better with more timing and better fuel but one thing that did annoy me was their recommendation to plug the vacuum advance. I followed their advice though.
One year on a 900 mile road trip, I drove one half with the Rev-N-Nator and the other half with a Chrome ECU and vacuum advance. The car ran about the same but got 2 mpg better with the vacuum advance connected.
I sold the unit for almost what I paid for it. It may work for those with access to better octane fuel. For me, it wasn't a good fit.
 
Agreed, horsepower claims are not likely but the rev limiter is useful. I run vacuum advance with a firecore distributor and it performs really well. All in all I like the ECU, about the same as a chrome box with an adjustable rev limiter.
 
Personally I went to Rev-N-Nator more due fiability than Performance, after 2 years of chrome Mopar box and the A688 FBO box constant failures, last longing less than a year per box.

At the time my A688 box failed, Don from FBO decided not to build anymore that box because the manufacturer moved his plant to China (he told me the box was being made by Standard, under his specs)… or that was what he told me. It replaced for the HR688 box which was kinda a scam. An HEI control unit hidden down a Mopar kinda ECU unit. Then after that he floated on the HRR688.

Between Rev-N-Nator and the other two, I found the Chromed box more “sparky” but could feel some missing beats giving revs. The FBO was slightly less sparky but more constant (but just last long maybe 800-1000 miles?). The Rev-N-Nator more stable and quite fast and stable responsive along all the revs. Allmost like a stock but you could feel the difference.

Need to say I’m not a tune up expert. Not quite a rookie LOL. I still have to learn about that. I’m just sharing feelings. So don’t take my words as a rule. (Looking forward to critics from somebody around)

Troy advice me also remove the dist vacuum advance. I’m not toward to that since even I have added some performance to the engine, is still a driver. But I added some spring pressure to the vaccum pod to somehow “limit” a bit the vacuum advance.

While I was waiting for my Rev-N-Nator being delivered in Venezuela, I got the 7500RPM unit being sold by Rick Ehrenberg(sp?). Claimed to be like the Chromed box… eeeeehm, not. Basically I felt like a stock replacement, althought I never revved it up high. I just used by couple of weeks. Is (it will be) my trunk spare now.
 
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Just want to throw it out that Pertronix makes a stand alone rev limiter.
I used one with a orange box for a couple years and it worked well.
 
If somebody around is thinking on get rid off their Rev-N-Nator box, I will be happy to get them from you!

(also some FBO A688, if someone is still alive)
 
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Hey Bob, just curious, where do you get your distributor parts? Is there a brand that you are partial to?
I've got a stock of MOPAR NOS points, condensers, rotors, cap accumulated over several years. But Standard Motor Products BLUE STREAK is great but try snd contact @HALLIFAXHOPS. He has a good supply of MOPAR stuff as well.
BOB RENTON
 
Personally I went to Rev-N-Nator more due fiability than Performance, after 2 years of chrome Mopar box and the A688 FBO box constant failures, last longing less than a year per box.

At the time my A688 box failed, Don from FBO decided not to build anymore that box because the manufacturer moved his plant to China (he told me the box was being made by Standard, under his specs)… or that was what he told me. It replaced for the HR688 box which was kinda a scam. An HEI control unit hidden down a Mopar kinda ECU unit. Then after that he floated on the HRR688.

Between Rev-N-Nator and the other two, I found the Chromed box more “sparky” but could feel some missing beats giving revs. The FBO was slightly less sparky but more constant (but just last long maybe 800-1000 miles?). The Rev-N-Nator more stable and quite fast and stable responsive along all the revs. Allmost like a stock but you could feel the difference.

Need to say I’m not a tune up expert. Not quite a rookie LOL. I still have to learn about that. I’m just sharing feelings. So don’t take my words as a rule. (Looking forward to critics from somebody around)

Troy advice me also remove the dist vacuum advance. I’m not toward to that since even I have added some performance to the engine, is still a driver. But I added some spring pressure to the vaccum pod to somehow “limit” a bit the vacuum advance.

While I was waiting for my Rev-N-Nator being delivered in Venezuela, I got the 7500RPM unit being sold by Rick Ehrenberg(sp?). Claimed to be like the Chromed box… eeeeehm, not. Basically I felt like a stock replacement, althought I never revved it up high. I just used by couple of weeks. Is (it will be) my trunk spare now.
Nacho..
Keep in mind..
Each ignition box can have a different latency which directly affects timing.
Also the performance specs of the NPN power transistor used in the box can cause some changes...

Just my $0.02...
 
Nacho..
Keep in mind..
Each ignition box can have a different latency which directly affects timing.
Also the performance specs of the NPN power transistor used in the box can cause some changes...

Just my $0.02...
Not sure he knows what "different latency" means.....and FYI....the external switching transistor is specialized Power Darlington design capable of switching high inductive loads (coil based) that is integrally protected against coil transients, with fast recovery time. Just thought you might like to know rather than hearsay from an uneducated source.
BOB RENTON
1692133996160.png
 
I doubt that 2% of this forum knows what "Different latency" is or ever needs to know.
Why use unusual terms like this anyway?
 
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So my question is has the cap and rotor been checked for movement or build issues?
Had a rotor where the metal pickup moved causing my car to misfire at high rpms.
Oh and stock Chinese orange box does the same thing. I had that happen before I bought a rehrenberg solid state box.
 
Not sure he knows what "different latency" means.....and FYI....the external switching transistor is specialized Power Darlington design capable of switching high inductive loads (coil based) that is integrally protected against coil transients, with fast recovery time. Just thought you might like to know rather than hearsay from an uneducated source.
BOB RENTON
View attachment 1510216


Can you stop being AN IDIOT ARROGANT? Or is your REGULAR DAILY LIFE BEHAVIOUR?

GET SOME FRIENDS!!… IF YOU STILL CAN OR CARE…
 
So my question is has the cap and rotor been checked for movement or build issues?
Had a rotor where the metal pickup moved causing my car to misfire at high rpms.
Oh and stock Chinese orange box does the same thing. I had that happen before I bought a rehrenberg solid state box.
All MOPAR ECU's or their clones from alternate sources are considered to be "solid state" devices or anything containing semi-conductors or are you referring to something else?
BOB RENTON
 
My apolgizes if I caused some confusion.. :(
The term latency has to with a delay in its response..
For example... Within the various ignition modules depending upon certain designs, internal components and different brand of power transistors, its output timing will vary.. I have done multiple tests using an MSD box, OE orange box, chrome box, standard motor LX101, keeping the other ignition parts common...
But after just changing the ignition box.. I found variations of ignition timing up to to 6 degrees different.. Thats why whenever an ignition box is swapped out, it is a good point to go back and check engine's timing as it may have changed. I recall a few years back when the Rev-N-Ator was getting alot of press, and often the point was made the engine picked up response and HP. But i don't recall seeing the confirmation that the increase may have been due to changes in ignition timing... For an objective comparison test, after changing the box the timing of the ignition system may need to be reset to return to factory specs...

Just my $0.02... :rolleyes:
 
Can you stop being AN IDIOT ARROGANT? Or is your REGULAR DAILY LIFE BEHAVIOUR?

GET SOME FRIENDS!!… IF YOU STILL CAN OR CARE…
You know what an engineer uses for birth control?

His personality.
 
AAahhhhh.....Something cryptic......perhaps you're aware of the expression, from George Orwell's book 1984: "Ignorance is bliss"........????
BOB RENTON
Cryptic? If you don’t understand it, I rest my case.
 
My apolgizes if I caused some confusion.. :(
The term latency has to with a delay in its response..
For example... Within the various ignition modules depending upon certain designs, internal components and different brand of power transistors, its output timing will vary.. I have done multiple tests using an MSD box, OE orange box, chrome box, standard motor LX101, keeping the other ignition parts common...
But after just changing the ignition box.. I found variations of ignition timing up to to 6 degrees different.. Thats why whenever an ignition box is swapped out, it is a good point to go back and check engine's timing as it may have changed. I recall a few years back when the Rev-N-Ator was getting alot of press, and often the point was made the engine picked up response and HP. But i don't recall seeing the confirmation that the increase may have been due to changes in ignition timing... For an objective comparison test, after changing the box the timing of the ignition system may need to be reset to return to factory specs...

Just my $0.02... :rolleyes:
I would assume your variations are based on Total Mechanical Timing

And at what RPM - I could see variations at much higher RPMs

Idle , probably nothing or you would notice a huge difference in Idle RPM

All the boxes I have tested , and i have a collection , didn’t see anything timing related say below 4500/5000 RPMs on a car

Would love to have a distributor machine

And 90% of the people on the street are shifting around 5,500 RPMs or less I would guess

I have had more issues with Ignition Coils failing at certain RPMs , or just failing all together then any ignition box honestly
 
Some cheap ECU's I've used like the grey ones would break up over 4000 rpm they were complete junk. I've had an orange box fail on me while driving, but there are several versions of the "orange box". Mine was a parts house generic. Mopar performance chrome ECU I have had for almost 10 years, rev n nator more recent. Both of these are no longer produced which seems to be a recent trend in the hobby, forced me to become somewhat of a hoarder of certain Mopar parts.
 
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