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Front/Rear subframe connectors. Best that DON'T require welding to floorpans? I'm WELDING mine in!!

CoronetDarter said:
One thing to keep in mind prior to installing: the E-brake cable has to run through the driver's side connector so measure entry and exit point and drill an elongated hole on each side.
Click to expand...

I drew a line across the bottom and then welded a tube large enough for the threaded end to fit through. I didn't want to worry about crap getting inside the frame.
 
DeltaV said:
Is @biomedtechguy going with the level 2 stiffening setup?

http://store.uscartool.com/b-body-chassis-stiffening-kit.html

or level 3

http://store.uscartool.com/Level-3-...0-B-Bodies-US-Car-Tool-Mopar-Dodge_p_113.html
Click to expand...
I already have the additional factory bracing, which I understand to be torque boxes and a plate that is up front by the K-member and radiator support IIRC.
I'm at least doing the front to rear subframe connectors, and I think that is all for now.
I'm going to wait to see if I need to relocate the spring mounts, in homage to my "modify if necessary" mantra.
I'm going to get the components for the rear suspension that either are "stock height" or possibly +1" because the inverted U of the upper rear fenderwells would be a possible point of limitation on tire width, as the next pair of rear drag radials or bias ply drag tires are going to have taller sidewalls.
Ultimately if I have to, I'll mini tub the wheelwells and get my trunk floorpan "addressed" whether that means replacement or repair.
 
I get that the connectors need trimming in areas to fit perfectly, and the floor is not a perfect level straight shot, but why don't they have a flange in at least a few locations?
Similar to the factory frame rails.
 
When welding in subframe connectors, just be sure to stitch weld and have a bucket of water and a wet towel to wet down the welds with. Weld for an inch or so and stop. Wet the weld and continue. Have someone watching the back seat carpet, if left in the car. It will catch on fire if you aren't careful. You also want to be mindful of blowing a hole through the floor pan by welding to long without stopping to cool the weld down.
 
Go from side to side also this helps with heat and I agree one inch at a time
 
You can always make your own. I did and for a few bucks I'm happy with mine. There is a tread on here were everyone shows the connectors.
 
bearman said:
You can always make your own. I did and for a few bucks I'm happy with mine. There is a tread on here were everyone shows the connectors.
Click to expand...
I'm better served doing my medical equipment repair and service, and letting a capable shop I trust that has reasonable rates that does welding all the time do the work on the frame ties.
 
This is splitting hairs, I know.

Whilst the US car tool connectors when welded in do kind of look like a factory piece, the factory would never have right-angle welded the chassis to floor pan like this.
They would have a right angle fold of material along its flanks that would be spot welded to floor (like everywhere else on the chassis.) Same with the chassis-chassis joins. Right angle tabs spot welded or longitudinal overlaps welded. Could easily be made and welded on to connectors prior to welding in. Small holes could be drilled in floor or connector tabs and welded through to connector or chassis to replicate spot welds.

Splitting hairs, yeah, but IMO more factory looking, and something I would do.
 
What is the best weld in sub connecter to install.
Product name & why please.
 
Has anybody put frame connectors on a '64 Dodge? I want them for my '64 Polara 500. They are all listed for '66 and up. For what it's worth, we put the mopar bolt in ones on my brothers Roadrunner and they made a huge improvement in the cars rigidity. That was 20 years ago with 4.56's and DOT slicks and a pretty serious 383, and they show no signs of shifting.
 
Late to this one to answer the 64 question. I put them in my 64 but used 2x3 tubing. I asked alot of questions from everyone on here. I was going with us car tool but after talking to everyone I went with home made and very happy. I'm now adding outriggers for rollbar and finishing the mini tubs from us car tool.
 
My '65 Coronet was done in '75 with springs moved in, frame tied with 2x3 .120 thru the floor & rear subframe where needed,welded to a plate welded to the OEM spring mount. Welding done by a pro welder for Don Ness Pro Stock builder '70's & '80's. Stiff as hell. Through the floor pan takes advantage of all shapes. My 'Satellite is the same. However another option 2x2 below the floor pan contour with angles up to the floor pan will get nearly the stiffness. Cutting the welds on each end & the angle attaching points on the floor pan can give back the "stock" appearance if desired. The US Car Tool product does look great, Seen one in person.
 
dvw said:
I've never been afraid to modify anything. To many worry about what happens "IF" they sell. Not what they really want. Build what you want. Don't build by committee.
Doug
Click to expand...
Installed weld in on my 65 coronet convertible, I brought it back east from a western state but roof was rotted so it filled w/water when it rained - I put new floor panel in & sliced them front to rear, welded solid front & back after relocation spring kits and super stock spring mounts , I only spot welded floor pans every 1-1/2" then sealed/bonded with urethane adhesive to seal and give a neat finish, I also added 2 additional 2×3 crossmembers rocker to rocker and reconfigured front/tranny mount area for strength & front and rear shaft safety loops , convertible is equipped with torque boxes already - I installed front & mid plates , now I'm trying to talk myself into front rail bars to my firewall and lower rad support ? ( I really like working on my toy, probably more than driving it ) , what fun !! Stronger the better for my 440 Max clone !!

IMG_20190628_111026_376.jpg 20180324_162354.jpg
 
LOUIS AMSLER said:
Has anybody put frame connectors on a '64 Dodge? I want them for my '64 Polara 500. They are all listed for '66 and up. For what it's worth, we put the mopar bolt in ones on my brothers Roadrunner and they made a huge improvement in the cars rigidity. That was 20 years ago with 4.56's and DOT slicks and a pretty serious 383, and they show no signs of shifting.
Click to expand...
I used Us car tool for my 64' Polara ,they do make them . They fit surprisingly well , only had to clearance a very small amount around a couple of bead rolls and i'm sure all 64's vary a little do to how the overlap of front and rear pans may have been spot welded. I would make my own or go with Us car tool and definitely weld them in. It may help to have someone weigh down the floor in spots and help to push up in spots to achieve to tightest fit.
 
dvw said:
I've never been afraid to modify anything. To many worry about what happens "IF" they sell. Not what they really want. Build what you want. Don't build by committee.
Doug
Click to expand...
Doug, your posts are always of particular interest and I appreciate them.
Although I was convinced to change my year old "decision" from doing a triangulated 4 link to split mono leaf springs and Assassin traction bars, one of the reasons was I believe that I have a better chance of getting that setup dialed in than a RMS StreetLynx or Gerst setup. I am confident that the performance will be fine, even with my stroker motor I have planned.
It being less "intrusive" is a bonus.
Just like mini tubs, if ultimately I need them to put the width tire I WANT, well then that's what I'll do, but not until I explore other options. So far, a 10.5" wide tread without even doing a spring relocation is pretty darn good, and no other mods but the wheels themselves.
As far as the weld in frame ties, I have no objection or hesitation, because I'm convinced that is a much better way to go.
 
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