Frustrated with my car

[dvw]

I've built close to 30 727's in last year or two. No leak complaints except one. It was due to a worn converter hub. Most all had stock pans and cork pan gaskets. If the converter and drive shaft yoke are good, they won't leak. If it restarts imediately after stalling it shouldn't be a coil issue. Could be a poor connection in the primary circuit. I'd look at the ignition switch, firewall bulkhead connector, ballast resitor, underhood wiring, wiring internal to the distributor.
Doug

 

[yella71]

your in box is full get in touch with me

 

[Mackman]

I recently had the same type of transmission leak. Would leak after it sat a while. Dip stick tube o-ring.

 

[cosgig]

First things first….
Go through the entire electrical system and clean all of the connections. Bulkhead, grounds, connectors, all of it. It’s free and will eliminate a variety of problems. Replace the ballast resistor and coil with extra pieces if you have them, which you should always have around.

Transmission…..shifter pivot seal is a likely candidate. And I concur that cleaning the entire trans, putting new cardboard down and checking for the leak will help to centralize the culprit. Also, if you have to go in and take the pan off, make sure the surface of the pan is flat, hammer the bolt hole area flat with a smooth faced hammer. . Don’t over torque the bolts, just like the cork valve cover gaskets, it’s easy to get carried away when it still leaks.

These are the joys of owning an old car, don’t look at working on them as a bad thing, it will help you get to know your car even better.

 

[ckessel]

To find the source/sources of the incontinence, wash down the engine and trans with some degreaser. I have had very good luck with ZEP orange concentrate which I put into a small Hudson sprayer. With the wand you can get into all sorts of areas which cannot be gotten with spray cans. The citrus degreaser won't kill your painted items either btw. Once that is done, put some oil dye into the engine, trans and p/s pump. The dye can be had a parts stores or off of tool trucks. Also new car dealers carry them too for their tech's. Take it for a drive, say an hour. Get it up in the air and shine a black light on the units. Wherever the thing is leaking from will show up easily. Fix from there.

 

[MoparThunder]

I appreciate all the advice. I will try them. I'm used to my old classics leaking but this is almost ridiculous. Hopefully one of the suggestions will help. As for the starting issue, it does seem to me that it is out of fuel and has run back into the tank. All the fuel lines have been replaced along with the fuel filter. Nothing is leaking. I have poured a little fuel into the carb and it starts then shuts off so I know the fuel isn't there. I've owned this car for over 9 years so the newer fuel hasn't been an issueuntil about 6-7 months ago so not positive on the evaporating. I do get some leaking from the steering box but not a lot. I wish I had a lift so I could see more. I've lost confidence in local shops.

 

[MoparThunder]

Well I have been concentrating on just starting it. Even thought I had the battery checked I know sometimes when it is underload it will drop amperage so I just replaced the battery adn it started right up. Sp on tot he next isue. It still just cuts off. I started it adn after 2 minutes it cut off. I restarted it and took it for a ride. 2x while driving it just cut off. it starts right back up but cuts off like turning the key off. it doesn't stumble at all like if gas is running out.

 

[Dave6T4]

Well I have been concentrating on just starting it. Even thought I had the battery checked I know sometimes when it is underload it will drop amperage so I just replaced the battery adn it started right up. Sp on tot he next isue. It still just cuts off. I started it adn after 2 minutes it cut off. I restarted it and took it for a ride. 2x while driving it just cut off. it starts right back up but cuts off like turning the key off. it doesn't stumble at all like if gas is running out.

Try a different coil on it. I had this problem with my R/T, except mine would not restart. I put a new coil on, and away it went.

 

[MoparThunder]

Try a different coil on it. I had this problem with my R/T, except mine would not restart. I put a new coil on, and away it went.

I will try that. Is there a way to check the coil prior to buying a new one?

 

[Dave6T4]

I checked continuity from + terminal to - terminal. Since my coil completely failed, it showed no continuity on my meter. Your coil may fail when it gets hot, so could check OK when cold. New coil is only $40.00, so cheap way to check it.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

after you sort the coil issue, a nice trick for cold starting I learned just a few months back that helps with our high ethanol gas when I also had the issue of hard starting after car sits for a week - pump gas pedal to floor 3x. Wait a full 10 seconds. Turn key no throttle and it should fire. The 10 sec wait time allows time for the fuel to atomize. Someone in another thread posted a video on this and my car started immediately after sitting for 2 weeks. I almost couldn't believe it as I've had this issue for years.

 

[MoparThunder]

after you sort the coil issue, a nice trick for cold starting I learned just a few months back that helps with our high ethanol gas when I also had the issue of hard starting after car sits for a week - pump gas pedal to floor 3x. Wait a full 10 seconds. Turn key no throttle and it should fire. The 10 sec wait time allows time for the fuel to atomize. Someone in another thread posted a video on this and my car started immediately after sitting for 2 weeks. I almost couldn't believe it as I've had this issue for years.

I'll give it a try, Thanks

 

[MoparThunder]

OK, got a coil wire question. I was going to remove the coil and replace it with another one to see if that is an issue. Well my son tried helping and thought he would surprise me but removing the coil before I got home. Well I'm not a wire expert and he didn't think to check were the 3 wires went, + or -. Can someone give me guidance on where the wires shoud go? There are 3 wires, one grey, one what appears to be blue and one black with a yellow tracer stripe. They are all taped up so I'm not sure where they come from.

I believe the black wire with the yellow tracer goes to the negative terminal on the coil.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

OK, got a coil wire question. I was going to remove the coil and replace it with another one to see if that is an issue. Well my son tried helping and thought he would surprise me but removing the coil before I got home. Well I'm not a wire expert and he didn't think to check were the 3 wires went, + or -. Can someone give me guidance on where the wires shoud go? There are 3 wires, one grey, one what appears to be blue and one black with a yellow tracer stripe. They are all taped up so I'm not sure where they come from.

I believe the black wire with the yellow tracer goes to the negative terminal on the coil.

you are correct. The blue goes to coil positive and the other 2 to the coil negative terminal. Tell your son next time the rule of thumb of taking photos prior to disassembly

 

[Demonic]

Post 2 - the strut pivot rod o-ring leak is famously mistaken for a pan leak. Dipstick, and hope they checked both seals on the shift/kickdown shafts. One at the top for the kickdown lever too.

As others stated, the coil is likely when it's hot. I had the same issue on a Duster. Hard to test the coil, because it cools off as soon as you open the hood.

 

[1STMP]

You might check your ignition switch/
lock cylinder. A bunch of keys on a
keyring can leverage quite a bit of
wear. Had an old pickup shut off
as you describe.

 

[MoparThunder]

OK, well it got to where it wouldn't even crank. Changed the ballast resistor, changed the battery finally went old school and banged on the starter......and it cranked. still have the starting issue but at least it cranks now. Going to get a starter. Any suggestions? I heard a 94-96 Durango mini starter works but wanted to double check. I would like a high torque mini if possible.

 

[ckessel]

With all of this troubleshooting fun thats going on, I wonder if in the near future you need to replace all of the wiring bumper to bumper. Old cars with bad connections, corroded wiring and terminals, not enough grounds, old switches etc etc, cause many headaches. My 65 was being fun to get lit over time and then one day got starter working only but no run. At least I was in the garage at the time. It had done that before several times but was able to get it going after doing the wiggle the connections routine.

 

[MoparThunder]

With all of this troubleshooting fun thats going on, I wonder if in the near future you need to replace all of the wiring bumper to bumper. Old cars with bad connections, corroded wiring and terminals, not enough grounds, old switches etc etc, cause many headaches. My 65 was being fun to get lit over time and then one day got starter working only but no run. At least I was in the garage at the time. It had done that before several times but was able to get it going after doing the wiggle the connections routine.

That is probably in the future.

 

[ckessel]

On my 65 project, the first thing I did was start cutting out the old wiring. I saved the various plugs/connectors as they can be hard to find but everything else got the boot. Depending on skill level, there are many options out there to be had. From reproduction units which are unplug/plug back on etc to custom units which allow for adding in accessories/upgrades. Like a/c, efi, electric windows, boom box, electric fans etc. No matter which way you go, it would be very wise to add additional grounds to the works. There were not enough grounds to begin with and sketchy ones can cause a multitude of problems. If you go the custom route, invest in a good soldering gun and crimpers.