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Headers or no headers?

Aesellitto

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I need some help talking me into, or out of, headers for my 72 charger with a 318 (mostly stock besides the edlebrock preformer intake and street demon carb). I am looking for better performance, but am not sure what price I will have to pay to install headers and if it is worth the money, and hassle, required to install them. I have a dual exhaust off of the factory manifolds. Will the rest of the exhaust have to be replaced also? What modifications are required and how easy, or hard, are they to install? And finally, what complications will I have to deal with (burnt wires, starters, etc.). It is a column shift with PS.
Thanks
 
Headers. TTI. Ceramic. Expensive. Breathes better, sounds better, less weight, and lower under-hood temperatures with ceramic coating.
 
Expensive Yes- worth it Yes TTI headers are the best, but does your build require them, meaning is the car clean or restored, if not then just run headman headers, and yes i would replace the entire exhaust if it's never been done, or just replace the mufflers if your system is newer, Good Luck !!
 
I am currently having the same debate with my 318, and have been consulting many people on the concept.
Over all for ultimate performance header are a must. However as has been pointed out to me, the 318 has small ports an does not really breath all that great so if you have not changed the heads to breath better; and/or put in a cam, headers may not actually provide much of an improvement. At least that's what has been pointed out to me.. IE- if the only upgrades are an intake and 4 bbl carb the stock manifold is sufficient. Now sufficient vs improvement is really the question. Will headers give you more juice? Probably... Will you notice the improvement, that is questionable. Over all if money is not an object then headers are obviously more desirable then the stock manifold. If you don't plan to do any motor work to the block and aren't putting in a cam then it may not really be worth the hassle.
On to the hassle....
From my understanding getting headers onto the drivers side may require removing your steering column, as well often need a bit of banging and bending to get them to fit properly. It's not a simple plug n play style slap it on and your running. Almost every one I have talked to and threads I've read about them have some kind of horror story trying to make them fit. Cheap headers are more work usually then good headers like TTI.
That all being said, I would consider whether or not your future build in the block involves putting in a Cam and or possibly 360 heads etc. If you are going to build up the 318, go for the headers, if not maybe spend your money else where to increase performance.
ATM I am resolved to remain with the stock manifold for now and just run intake and a 4bbl. Then buy a big block and start building it up over the next years and preparing the car for some serious juju.
Note it has been pointed out getting an exhaust system with an X pipe will increase your torque and give you a bump in how hard the car pulls.

Please any one with more experience on the matter with 318's please chime in and correct me if I am wrong, as I am also just researching the idea now of how to make more tq/power out of my 318, and whether its worth it to build it up or just wake it up for now and start building my big block.
 
IMO. headers in most cases is a waste of money. If you don't have high air volume heads and intake Why get them? They make a lot of under hood heat, many times hard to install spark plugs, noisey, problems with flange gaskets, hard to install, and don't last like cast iron exhaust do. I don't think you would notice any change in performance useing a stock -small cubic inch engine...........................MO
 
I chose not to install headers when I did my 79 300.Same thought, it's a driver and no real gain needed.I did install TTI's complete exhaust system.
 

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I think the question is best answered by asking yourself what do you want out of your car? I have used TTI headers on all of my mopars (73 Challenger, 69 Charger, 69 Roadrunner) and I couldn't be happier with them. Its an easy way to get a boost in HP for your car, they sound better and can generate less heat. The TTI headers fit perfectly in my experience as they are made specifically to fit your application and are fairly easy to install. You're looking at approximately $1000 depending on the exhaust and headers you buy and then if you have to pay for the install you would need to add that cost. In my OPINION, headers are one of the best upgrades you can do and they are a simple change. I put my first set in with the help of my father and it really wasn't that hard and I believe well worth the investment for the HP gains alone.
 
I went through this same debate last year and got a lot of good info from the members here. It really boiled down to what is your intended use and preference.

My 74 Charger has the original 400 block, stock pistons (I think) with the Edelbrock E-Street aluminum heads, performer intake and 650 performer carb. The cam is not stock but mild and I do have the factory HP exhaust manifolds. I ended up calling Mancini Racing and Chicago Connection. Both of these gave me the same exact answer for a my car, which is the headers (even TTI) are not worth it even with the upgrades. They will be louder, run hotter and probably only gain about 10-15 HP at max when you get above 3500 RPMs or so. Both however did suggest the TTI 2 1/2" H-pipe exhaust system, which I did purchase. Their reasoning was the same for the X-pipe as the headers. These upgrades are really more for the upper RPM range and will see little to no benefit street cruising, which is my primary use of this car. I'm very happy with it so hope this helps.
 
I try to go with proof when looking for components to add...there are many dyno test articles on motors from bone stock to all out race that compare stock to various header configurations. There are a few manifolds that perform as well as a header but I think over all, if you plan on doing simple bolt on, a header/ exhaust is a great place to start... Will it be noticible??? Probably not...I'm not a 318 expert and many of these guys here have real world knowledge but my suggestion is just do as much research as you can... Good luck!
 
Biggest kick in the pants for the $$ is to swap out the rear gear. A 3.91 will wake up the teen but then you will restrict your highway cruising speed but as far as headers go....all of my cars picked up power with the installation of a set of tubes from Ford 289's to Mopar's 318 and up. Yeah, the stock heads are restrictive but not so much that a set of tubes won't help. Main thing is to think small. The teen is small and has small ports so a set of large tube headers will only hurt it so keep the primary tube size within reason. I would also take a look at what's in the rear end. Probably has a 2.94 gear in it? A 3.23 would help but a 3.55 would help more and will still allow decent highway speeds. It just depends on what the car is used for. If it's used mainly for stop light to stop light romps, throw a 4.56 in it! That will surprise some people :grin:
 
Hey Cranky, how does too large a tube affect performance? Are you talking about back pressure? I've heard this before, but I'm not sure why.

I was also thinking about headers, but my '64 is to be a cruiser, particularly since it's a ragtop, so headers don't make sense to me. I'd like to slap on some repro max wedge manifolds just for a more correct look, but they're pricey, more than ceramic coated headers I think. I'll likely just install the bb magnum manifolds I picked up for $300.

good luck!
 
expensive yes- worth it yes tti headers are the best, but does your build require them, meaning is the car clean or restored, if not then just run headman headers, and yes i would replace the entire exhaust if it's never been done, or just replace the mufflers if your system is newer, good luck !!


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As Lazerwolf mentioned, marginal gains may be noticed above 3500 RPM, but you may even notice a slight drop in performance at lower RPM ranges
 
In my experience, headers will always give you improvement (as long as they are too big for the engine) over manifolds. They will also dissipate heat better than manifolds. I had a set of flowtech headers on my 71 318 charger and never had to bang on any tubes. They fit really well for a cheap header. I ran power steering with the set too. The only thing was the intermediate bar on the steering ran between the driver side header tubes.
 
In my experience, headers will always give you improvement (as long as they are too big for the engine) over manifolds. They will also dissipate heat better than manifolds. I had a set of flowtech headers on my 71 318 charger and never had to bang on any tubes. They fit really well for a cheap header. I ran power steering with the set too. The only thing was the intermediate bar on the steering ran between the driver side header tubes.

Definitely headers! Power difference is usually noticeable. You can find cheap headers off ebay or craigslist, I've seen used for less than 100 dollars. Hooker headers are on summit for around 200, probably less for small block. TTI is really expensive and awesome but for a 318 it's probably not necessary. Definitely get the smallest primary tubes you can find, no 2" headers.. I think the small blocks use 1 5/8'?
 
Hey Cranky, how does too large a tube affect performance? Are you talking about back pressure? I've heard this before, but I'm not sure why.
You mainly want to size the tube pretty close to the head port size on a mild street engine that won't be seeing high rpm but even a small tube header will generally let the engine breathe better throughout the rpm range. There's also a lot of info on the net that shows you how to size a set of headers to your engine/vehicle combination which also factors in how the car will be used. Just doing a quick search brought up this vid....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qnn6zP2P7OY

As Lazerwolf mentioned, marginal gains may be noticed above 3500 RPM, but you may even notice a slight drop in performance at lower RPM ranges
I've never experienced any drop in performance below 3500 even with just a header install. If anyone experiences that with just the addition of headers, something is wrong. Now when headers are installed, the components that will compliment them is usually a better downstream exhaust system, a better intake and carb and even a cam but I've had good results with just the installation of headers and kept the stock intake and carb but the engines that benefit the most with just a header install are usually factory high performance engines. The OP already has an intake and carb.

In my experience, headers will always give you improvement (as long as they are too big for the engine) over manifolds. They will also dissipate heat better than manifolds. I had a set of flowtech headers on my 71 318 charger and never had to bang on any tubes. They fit really well for a cheap header. I ran power steering with the set too. The only thing was the intermediate bar on the steering ran between the driver side header tubes.
I hope you meant to say 'as long as they are NOT too big for the engine' :)
 
I need some help talking me into, or out of, headers for my 72 charger with a 318 (mostly stock besides the edlebrock preformer intake and street demon carb). I am looking for better performance, but am not sure what price I will have to pay to install headers and if it is worth the money, and hassle, required to install them. I have a dual exhaust off of the factory manifolds. Will the rest of the exhaust have to be replaced also? What modifications are required and how easy, or hard, are they to install? And finally, what complications will I have to deal with (burnt wires, starters, etc.). It is a column shift with PS.
Thanks

If the engine is a stock head, stock cam engine then headers will not do much for the initial expense. There are more than a few camshaft companies marketing cams to run well with factory manifolds. I think in terms of value and reward, changing the camshaft and valve springs to something moderate will get you more bang for the buck. And - should the new found power not be enough, then upgrading to headers will provide much greater of a reward for dollars spent.
As for issues - the column shift will have to be modified or replaced with a floor shifter. The starter will work, but I'd recommend a mini starter for a lifetime of happy starts with them. You will want to make sure you have looms and top quality wires to keep them intact with the added heat.
They are not hard to install but some require the steering to be seperated to allow the linakge to pass through the tubes. Others (more pricey) don;t require that but are 2-3 times the cost.
 
Cruiser...no headers.....not worth the hassel installing them
1/4 miler.......depends on the amount of mods done to the engine....lots of hp go with headers
Every time I have seen guys putting on headers they all have the same problem......fitting around steering column and steering box on the left side and if the car is A/C equiped interference with the big heater box......then always chasing exhaust leaks and broken headerbolts.
 
Wow! Awesome responses and very much appreciated being a new classic car owner. Replacing the gears was one of the items I considered. Would a 3.55 gear ratio still allow for decent highway speeds? Seemed to me that RPMS would be pretty high? What would the cruising speed be for me with the torque flight trans?
 
Wow! Awesome responses and very much appreciated being a new classic car owner. Replacing the gears was one of the items I considered. Would a 3.55 gear ratio still allow for decent highway speeds? Seemed to me that RPMS would be pretty high? What would the cruising speed be for me with the torque flight trans?

Depends on tire size (and gear ratio.)
Here is a calculator:
http://www.wallaceracing.com/calc-gear-tire-rpm-mph.php

I haven't done a small block in a car in a long time, but I have bad memories of the old headers that ran under the steering and the tubes would get smashed and cracked.
I know the TTI's don't have this issue and fit great, but have a hard time spending $700+ on headers and then still needing to finish the exhaust system.
If you main goal is racing the car, then get the headers, but for crusing, daily driving, car shows the manifolds are fine and you can still make some power.
My friend has a '70 Challenger 318 with manifolds, dual exhaust, 3.55:1 gears, a higher stall converter, mild cam, 9:1 compression, small 4-bbl and it is a fun car to drive and has been on several long 100+ mile trips, although I don't think you would would want to drive cross-country with those gears/tire size. If you did plan to do more long highway driving, you could just swap on taller tires.
 
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