HEI Conversion Coil Question

[dadsbee]

Bob, go have a nap...

 

[Bee1971]

LOL

Maybe he is DIZZY

 

[GTXDAN]

I wasn't going to go there it was to easy. LOL

 

[RJRENTON]

LOL

Maybe he is DIZZY

ABSOLUTELY.....but.....HOW DIFICULT IS IT TO SPELL ENGINE COMPONENTS CORRECTLY? Or perhaps the person using the word ("dizzy") doesn't know how to spell the component correctly......it's not "funny"......it just sounds stupid for a grown, reasonably educated person to talk in euphemisms......like a child......
BOB RENTON

 

[Kern Dog]

ABSOLUTELY.....but.....HOW DIFICULT IS IT TO SPELL ENGINE COMPONENTS CORRECTLY?

Come on, man… you’re making this easy. How hard is to spell the word difficult?

 

[Bee1971]

I had to look that up

Six common euphemisms are:

• A bun in the oven: pregnant.
• No longer with us: dead.
• Let go: fired.
• Plastered: drunk.
• Time of the month: menstruation.
• DIZZY - Distributor

Pretty much sums it up - LOL




Time for bed - Hopefully I won’t bee DIZZY at the Town Hall tomorrow

 

[RJRENTON]

I had to look that up

Six common euphemisms are:

• A bun in the oven: pregnant.
• No longer with us: dead.
• Let go: fired.
• Plastered: drunk.
• Time of the month: menstruation.
• DIZZY - Distributor

Pretty much sums it up - LOL




Time for bed - Hopefully I won’t bee DIZZY at the Town Hall tomorrow

You probably never heard of this euphemism either: "picking your nose and rolling booger pills with your thumb and finger" = a soothing experience......and "dizzy never equals a distributor" ..... only to the uneducated or someone that doesn't know how to spell....
BOB RENTON

 

[Bee1971]

First - I wasn’t the one who initiated the word DIZZY on this thread

Second - You might want to look up the meaning of DOUBLE STANDARD in regards to your last comment

My opinion of course

 

[dadsbee]

Just can't wait for his next "RPM" abbreviation....

 

[1973dodger]

Back to the original purpose of this thread, concerning the start and run position of the switch. Since hooking up the HEI module in my Charger it has worked as intended until the other day when I started the car to move it out of the garage to work on my daily driver. After working on the daily driver, went to put the Charger in it's rightful place, no spark, no start. Long story short, after taking the general advice of this thread, I ran both the crank and run wires to the + side of the coil, with the run wire on a 10 amp fuse. The fuse keeps popping for the run wire, thus no spark when in run position? Engine seems to have spark in crank position and immediately dies when key is released to run position. My original concern when creating this thread is, Is power from the crank wire backfeeding power to all the circuits that are normally off while the starter is engaged when cranking? What's confusing is this setup has worked for a couple of months w/o issue. It's either that or something is grounding out in the run circuit or HEI module is crapped out? Ignition switch is new. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[GTXDAN]

Are you still running a resistor in the system? If so it needs to be bypassed by soldering a wire across the terminals or just making a jumper to plug the wires together. I would try to isolate the system by unhooking the power to the coil and crank it to see if it blows a fuse, and if it does, unhook the power to the module and try. Why the fuse in the ignition wire?

 

[Geoff 2]

[1] If the coil being used requires a bal res [ such as factory coil ], then the bal res MUST be used, even with a HEI module.
[2] I fuse HEIs with a 10 amp fuse, never had the fuse blow. You could have a faulty coil or module.
[3] Make sure the ign fuse only feeds the ign coil & module.

 

[1973dodger]

Are you still running a resistor in the system? If so it needs to be bypassed by soldering a wire across the terminals or just making a jumper to plug the wires together. I would try to isolate the system by unhooking the power to the coil and crank it to see if it blows a fuse, and if it does, unhook the power to the module and try. Why the fuse in the ignition wire?

I did not run a resistor but am considering. Upon further thought, I think what is happening is when cranking, I'm back feeding power to the electric cooling fan, electric water pump, electric fuel pump and electric vacuum pump, which is in fact easily overloading the 10a fuse.

 

[1973dodger]

As I suspected, the current was being back fed to the accessory items mentioned above, thereby causing the circuit to blow the fuse due to current being drawn through the HEI circuit. My solution was to use a 10A diode purchased on ebay which limits the current to flow in one direction only, thereby eliminating current being drawn through the circuit while cranking. My suspicions are; most on this forum don't have as many electrical accessories as I have and have not run into this problem if you use mechanical fuel pump, mechanical cooling fan, mechanical water pump and have enough vaccum for power brakes naturally. Goes to show you, when you start customizing features on your classic Mopar, one thing leads to something else down the line.

What I've learned;

-A ground going to the HEI module, if mounted to the chassis, will function better if a ground wire goes directly to the engine block to ground terminal on the module, instead of totally relying on a ground to the chassis. If existing ground connections to the block or chassis are suspect, could lead to resistance. If module is mounted to the distributor, it shouldn't be an issue.

-If using aftermarket ignition 3 terminal solenoids, you will need one for the cranking wire and one for the run wire, or else starter will continue to spin in run position. (Don't ask me how I know)

-If using a diode, be advised you will lose around 7/10ths of a volt to your HEI circuit, if that becomes an issue for you then you will need to find another solution. Hasn't been an issue for me to this point, I'm at 14v while running after diode.

If any other issues arise, I'll keep those interested posted.