Helicoil question

[JG1966]

I've got a stripped header stud thread in the head on my 340 and plan to use a helicoil to fix it. I'm have a lot of room to work. It's the outside stud next to No. 1 cylinder. Headers are off car. I'm going to use grease on the 90 degree angle drill bit to catch most of shavings and try to blow out the rest. And I'm not too worried about a couple renegade shavings that manage to get in antifreeze (I'll flush system after, too). But how do I prevent the helicoil tang from getting into water passage when I punch it out? They are stainless steel, so not sure how much magnetic properties they have. No way to get needle nose pliers in there. Any suggestions? Thanks.

 

[Yatzee]

I've got a stripped header stud thread in the head on my 340 and plan to use a helicoil to fix it. I'm have a lot of room to work. It's the outside stud next to No. 1 cylinder. Headers are off car. I'm going to use grease on the 90 degree angle drill bit to catch most of shavings and try to blow out the rest. And I'm not too worried about a couple renegade shavings that manage to get in antifreeze (I'll flush system after, too). But how do I prevent the helicoil tang from getting into water passage when I punch it out? They are stainless steel, so not sure how much magnetic properties they have. No way to get needle nose pliers in there. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Well if you feel queasy about using needle nose pliers, pick up "key locking inserts" or "knife blade inserts". Use a light coating of red loctite on the outer threads only before inserting and chase the inside threads with an oiled tap after the loctite cures.

 

[JG1966]

Well if you feel queasy about using needle nose pliers, pick up "key locking inserts" or "knife blade inserts". Use a light coating of red loctite on the outer threads only before inserting and chase the inside threads with an oiled tap after the loctite cures.

Thanks Yatzee. I'd have no problem using needle nose pliers but can't imagine they make them small enough to fit an inch inside a 3/8 inch hole and be able to grab something. That would be the easiest way for sure.

 

[Daves69]

.........I'm have a lot of room to work..........

Go bigger rather than repair?

 

[JG1966]

Go bigger rather than repair?

Thanks Dave. That's certainly an option but I'd prefer to not have to drill out my brand new ceramic headers to fit a larger bolt. I was thinking maybe tapping for a metric size barely above 5/16th but would prefer a helicoil and same sized bolt.

 

[Daves69]

Maybe something such as ...........

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-22488-675-097.aspx?origin=keyword

 

[JG1966]

Maybe something such as ...........
View attachment 506113
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-22488-675-097.aspx?origin=keyword

Very interesting!! Thank you.

 

[AR67GTX]

I don't think the tang will hurt anything if it does end up in the cooling system. It would probably just settle down in the cooling jacket in the block. But - you might be able to tie a piece of fishing line around the tang, feed it up the insert along the installation tool, and after breaking the tang and withdrawing the tool, retrieve it by the piece of fishing line. Might put a dab of super glue on the line wraps around the tang so it doesn't slip off.

 

[JG1966]

I don't think the tang will hurt anything if it does end up in the cooling system. It would probably just settle down in the cooling jacket in the block. But - you might be able to tie a piece of fishing line around the tang, feed it up the insert along the installation tool, and after breaking the tang and withdrawing the tool, retrieve it by the piece of fishing line. Might put a dab of super glue on the line wraps around the tang so it doesn't slip off.

Thanks AR. That's a good idea. And I guess even the worst-case scenario -- the tang gets in my coolant -- isn't that bad.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Use a shop vac to suck it out.

 

[miller]

Or a piece of wire, with a dab of grease on the end.
That's how I got all ten of mine out.

 

[ckessel]

Fastenal has some really nice thread repair inserts. I found out about them when I needed to fix a way stripped out water pump/timing cover hole on the block of a 340. The hole was so big that a 31/64" bit just barely bit some material as this was the pilot drill size. They have them in thin and thick [what I used] wall inserts. The pilot drill is just one under from a 1/2" and the hole is supposed to be 3/8 coarse thread to give you an idea as to how jacked up it was.

 

[JG1966]

All good!! Thank you for help, especially Daves69, whose advice I took. I ended up drilling out hole with 5/16 drill (I didn't even need 90 degree adapter after I took out battery, battery tray and moved some starter relay wires and power steering hose). Then I tapped it with a 3/8 16 tap (which happened to be the only tap I own - from pinion snubber clogged bolt holes). Took some time and patience, but I tried a 3/8 bolt and it snugged perfectly. Now I'll use a double sided stud with 3/8 in head and 5/16 on header side (no drilling out my nice new headers). Thanks everyone!!!

 

[451Mopar]

I've got a stripped header stud thread in the head on my 340 and plan to use a helicoil to fix it. I'm have a lot of room to work. It's the outside stud next to No. 1 cylinder. Headers are off car. I'm going to use grease on the 90 degree angle drill bit to catch most of shavings and try to blow out the rest. And I'm not too worried about a couple renegade shavings that manage to get in antifreeze (I'll flush system after, too). But how do I prevent the helicoil tang from getting into water passage when I punch it out? They are stainless steel, so not sure how much magnetic properties they have. No way to get needle nose pliers in there. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Use a TimeSert thread insert. Only issue is the install kits are expensive ($74.30)
http://www.timesert.com/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JK23O6/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A2J41G0RQ2IUXB

 

[SublimeSixpack]

It looks like he resolved the issue.
But for those that don't know, or haven't had to repair the threads that go into a water jacket, a helicoil will seep! I tried this on a 360 and it seeped coolant. So I ordered Time-Sert kit. Pulled out the helicoil and installed the Time-Sert (both use STI threads) with High Temp. sealer, then the stud with high temp. sealer and no seepage.

If I had to do it again I'd go with the double ended stud that Daves69 suggested. Wasn't aware of those.

 

[JG1966]

It looks like he resolved the issue.
But for those that don't know, or haven't had to repair the threads that go into a water jacket, a helicoil will seep! I tried this on a 360 and it seeped coolant. So I ordered Time-Sert kit. Pulled out the helicoil and installed the Time-Sert (both use STI threads) with High Temp. sealer, then the stud with high temp. sealer and no seepage.

If I had to do it again I'd go with the double ended stud that Daves69 suggested. Wasn't aware of those.

Thanks Sublime. I didn't know about them either. I'm still not sure it won't leak, but with some copper rtv, I'm optimistic. And fixing it was so much easier -- and cheaper -- than I thought it would be.

 

[AR67GTX]

All good!! Thank you for help, especially Daves69, whose advice I took. I ended up drilling out hole with 5/16 drill (I didn't even need 90 degree adapter after I took out battery, battery tray and moved some starter relay wires and power steering hose). Then I tapped it with a 3/8 16 tap (which happened to be the only tap I own - from pinion snubber clogged bolt holes). Took some time and patience, but I tried a 3/8 bolt and it snugged perfectly. Now I'll use a double sided stud with 3/8 in head and 5/16 on header side (no drilling out my nice new headers). Thanks everyone!!!

Good deal - the thread adaptors that Daves69 suggested are a good idea in many locations. There are a variety of them out there if you look for them. McMaster Carr has a good assortment.

 

[JG1966]

Good deal - the thread adaptors that Daves69 suggested are a good idea in many locations. There are a variety of them out there if you look for them. McMaster Carr has a good assortment.

I looked all over Mcmaster-Carr website and couldn't find any double-ended studs that were different sizes on each end. Maybe I missed them but they were all the same size. I had to order the Dormans from Summit.

 

[ckessel]

I put JB Weld on the insert since it was going into the cooling jacket. Let it cure overnight before putting it back together. If that stud you found is going into the end hole of the head, for sure get some sealant on it as its exposed to the coolant jacket too.

 

[miller]

a helicoil will seep!

Depends on how their put in, and the fit. On my 906 heads, every stud hole was too loose. Drilled, and tapped each hole, and when I installed the helicoils, painted the outsides with Stud-loc. Let that cure, and coated the stud threads with #2 Permetex. Not even a drip.

Those two-sized studs mentioned, are called step-studs. Used all the time on radial engines.