Help building a Street/Strip 727

[robinsonwr]

Guys,
I want help to accumulate a parts list to build a robust 727 Torqueflite for my 1966 Satellite with boosted 426ci 6.4 BGE hemi. The engine should make 900-1000hp on a streetable pump gas tune. The car will mostly be street driven with occasional trips to the strip. I was thinking about sourcing some 46/48RE parts if possible. The car will be foot braked. Suggestions are needed please.

 

[mopar373]

A&A Transmission Nothing but Mopar (317)813-3066.

 

[robinsonwr]

A&A Transmission Nothing but Mopar (317)813-3066.

I really want to try to build a 727 myself if possible. A & A is really reputable company with great products.

 

[ykf7b0]

I will recommend to you Mr. Ed Becker up in South Haven, MS. He is a master mechanic and retired from Chrysler. Ed races in Nostalgia Super Stock with his 1965 Plymouth. He rebuilt my 727TF around 10 years ago and he beefed it up real nicely with a bolt in sprang and other upgrades and it has handled my 700 hp set up flawlessly.

 

[R413]

I really want to try to build a 727 myself if possible. A & A is really reputable company with great products.

This 1000 horsepower car is not really the one for a newbie to start building transmissions for.

 

[493 Mike]

I really want to try to build a 727 myself if possible. A & A is really reputable company with great products.

If you have the common 727 build manuals there is no reason you can't attempt to build. Cope sells good parts too. For sure, purchase a billet steel front clutch retainer.
Mike

 

[493 Mike]

This 1000 horsepower car is not really the one for a newbie to start building transmissions for.

It's only money (or legs)!
Mike

 

[R413]

Don't bother with cope. A&A is the place.

 

[mopar373]

I really want to try to build a 727 myself if possible. A & A is really reputable company with great products.

I have built over a thousand of them, A&A has all the parts and will help you!

 

[snakeoil24]

A&A the only way!!

 

[Curiousyellow71]

I don't think you will be sourcing much from a 46/48re for a 1k hp 727 build. Billet front drum is a must..and a good bolt in sprag. Their really isn't anything I would call street in building this kind of 727. But that doesn't mean a race transmission can't be street driven.
We use A&A and Cope. This is copes:build it yourself kit. Some of the parts like the input and output shafts get pricey. Some items.. depending how you drive it..could maybe utilize some stock parts. Don't skimp on the front drum or the sprag..if you like your feet!

 

[R413]

With 1000 horsepower it will be in the 9's at first and damn well better be in the 8's with some sorting out. So it's going to need all the SFI certified parts and pieces. This is no 13 second backyard built vehicle.

 

[dvw]

I can tell you what works in mine. Good front drum. I prefer the aluminum version as its far lighter. Do not use Teflon rings on the reaction shaft support if using an aluminum drum. Do not use a Kevlar band on a aluminum drum. Good steel front planet. Solid smooth red lined band. I feel it's stonger than a flex band. If using a soild band fit it to the drum and hold it up to the light. Make sure it's round all the way around it's circumference, some aren't. Ultimate 16 element sprag. If you want a good trans brake valve body, 727Specialist. Mine uses a modified old Turbo Action Cheetah. Alto red frictions and Kolene steels. .010"-.012" clearance in the front clutch with 15 springs .025" clearance in the rear clutch. 4.2 lever. Drill a .060" hole intersecting the rear cooler line passage where the sprag inner race rides. Modify the reaction shaft support per Cope's instructions on his site. Make sure to get the 1.75" filter spacer with this pan as it's extra deep. Use the cloth style Daycron filter. Use this trans pan.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0876WSHZ...p_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM. I've refreshed more than a few Pro-flites. They don't not use billet servos, neither do I. Mine does have torington bearings and and additional billet aluminum parts. But this is a race deal and those parts have no real strength advantage, just lighter. The stock 3 pin rear planet is the original that has been in the car for over 12 years and 1000 passes. Car has run a best of 8.96@150, 3350lbs. It looks like yours will be a boosted deal. A&A is a great source for the other parts listed.
Doug

 

[robinsonwr]

I can tell you what works in mine. Good front drum. I prefer the aluminum version as its far lighter. Do not use Teflon rings on the reaction shaft support if using an aluminum drum. Do not use a Kevlar band on a aluminum drum. Good steel front planet. Solid smooth red lined band. I feel it's stonger than a flex band. If using a soild band fit it to the drum and hold it up to the light. Make sure it's round all the way around it's circumference, some aren't. Ultimate 16 element sprag. If you want a good trans brake valve body, 727Specialist. Mine uses a modified old Turbo Action Cheetah. Alto red frictions and Kolene steels. .010"-.012" clearance in the front clutch with 15 springs .025" clearance in the rear clutch. 4.2 lever. Drill a .060" hole intersecting the rear cooler line passage where the sprag inner race rides. Modify the reaction shaft support per Cope's instructions on his site. Make sure to get the 1.75" filter spacer with this pan as it's extra deep. Use the cloth style Daycron filter. Use this trans pan.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0876WSHZ...p_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM. I've refreshed more than a few Pro-flites. They don't not use billet servos, neither do I. Mine does have torington bearings and and additional billet aluminum parts. But this is a race deal and those parts have no real strength advantage, just lighter. The stock 3 pin rear planet is the original that has been in the car for over 12 years and 1000 passes. Car has run a best of 8.96@150, 3350lbs. It looks like yours will be a boosted deal. A&A is a great source for the other parts listed.
Doug

Thank you!

 

[robinsonwr]

With 1000 horsepower it will be in the 9's at first and damn well better be in the 8's with some sorting out. So it's going to need all the SFI certified parts and pieces. This is no 13 second backyard built vehicle.

Yes you are correct. I've had a couple street driven nitrous Bowtie vehicles in the mid to low 9's. Big learning curve for me on the Mopar suspension setups. My cousin has a crank driven F1 supercharged 1100hp pump gas LS Trans Am. I want to shut him up.

 

[robinsonwr]

The turbo setup will be twin 78/75's capable of 1500-1600hp on race tune.

 

[Rebelrouser]

Guys,
I want help to accumulate a parts list to build a robust 727 Torqueflite for my 1966 Satellite with boosted 426ci 6.4 BGE hemi. The engine should make 900-1000hp on a streetable pump gas tune. The car will mostly be street driven with occasional trips to the strip. I was thinking about sourcing some 46/48RE parts if possible. The car will be foot braked. Suggestions are needed please.

Never built a 727 for 1000 hp, but have for 800hp drag car. As much as you want to get your feet wet and build your own trans, from my experience it will be cheaper to buy one built A&A is a good choice. I will say a 727 is very stout, my combo had a billet drums, and a low gear set with needle bearings instead of bushings, heavy rear sprag, rollerized output housing, and a manual valve body, kolene steels and red clutches, and a deep pan. I would think at 1000hp bigger input and output shafts would be a must, and that leads to drums to use the bigger diameters. You need to check on what kind of machine work will be needed. Next will the stock case handle 1000hp? And for a trans it is not really the HP but the torque and usually a blown engine has big torque down low. If you really want to pay your dues and build your own, then research and asking people who have done it is a big must.
I know on my trans it required some machine work on pistons to get clutch clearances exactly where I wanted them. The big issue on a 727 is the overlap on the 2/3 shift, band lever ratio, band adjustment, and band material may need to be tweaked to keep the 2nd band from burning. That requires pulling it in and out to keep track of how it is living until you find a sweet spot. On the billet drums, for me, the ones with the stainless sleeve on the outside seemed to me to be the best friction surface to keep the band alive.

I have done transmissions for over 40 years and the Chevy guys with Powerglides at high HP levels, are a good example, you will always spend more money collecting parts than buying a unit already built from a good suppler that has worked out a combination. If they are on a budget, I tell them to buy a good used unit and then freshen it.

 

[dvw]

I've had no issue with overlap. If the clearance and spring pack are correct with a good valve body it's not an issue. No problem setting clearance either. There are 2 thickness steels available, 2 thickness frictions, and various thickness snap rings. The A&A drum is machined well enough that most times it's a drop in. There is also has a large piston option. I haven't swapped a band since 2014, the clutch pack lasts for years as well. The car gets run every other weekend. The hardest abuse will be leaving off the trans brake. That being said we ran a 3875 lb turbo car for over 10 years with a brake. Broke the ears off a aftermarket driveshaft, snapped a pinion shaft in the rear end. Never hurt the trans.
Doug

 

[robinsonwr]

I've had no issue with overlap. If the clearance and spring pack are correct with a good valve body it's not an issue. No problem setting clearance either. There are 2 thickness steels available, 2 thickness frictions, and various thickness snap rings. The A&A drum is machined well enough that most times it's a drop in. There is also has a large piston option. I haven't swapped a band since 2014, the clutch pack lasts for years as well. The car gets run every other weekend. The hardest abuse will be leaving off the trans brake. That being said we ran a 3875 lb turbo car for over 10 years with a brake. Broke the ears off a aftermarket driveshaft, snapped a pinion shaft in the rear end. Never hurt the trans.
Doug

That information is great to hear. That kind of eases my mind somewhat. I plan to footbrake the car which should help stress on parts.

 

[robinsonwr]

I've had no issue with overlap. If the clearance and spring pack are correct with a good valve body it's not an issue. No problem setting clearance either. There are 2 thickness steels available, 2 thickness frictions, and various thickness snap rings. The A&A drum is machined well enough that most times it's a drop in. There is also has a large piston option. I haven't swapped a band since 2014, the clutch pack lasts for years as well. The car gets run every other weekend. The hardest abuse will be leaving off the trans brake. That being said we ran a 3875 lb turbo car for over 10 years with a brake. Broke the ears off a aftermarket driveshaft, snapped a pinion shaft in the rear end. Never hurt the trans.
Doug

DVW I would be interested to hear more about the turbo car.