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Help purchasing a seized engine

66bluewhale

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mission viejo, CA
Found a 383 that is seized. It has been sitting for years with no oil. Front two cylinders removed and the walls look like they need honing. Seller says it just needs a rebuild. What should I ask or be looking for before making an offer?
 
While I am no expert, I would plan on needing to overbore (and of course hone) the block at the very least. Depending on "how seized" it is, the block could be almost junk. Seized bores can often be brought back by soaking that cylinder (if not at TDC) with penetrating oil.

Others with more experience can maybe speak better to this, but I would be very careful to purchase that engine. There are likely much better engines available...
 
Im not trying to be smart here, but why bother? 383's are so cheap.
 
Found a 383 that is seized. It has been sitting for years with no oil. Front two cylinders removed and the walls look like they need honing. Seller says it just needs a rebuild. What should I ask or be looking for before making an offer?
You should ask the seller if you can take it to your machine shop to check if it's a good block, and if it is, you'll give him a hundred dollars for it. That's it.
 
:thinker:that was what I was just going to post there a dime a dozen ,unless this was a numbers matching one of anything why not pick up another one ? wouldn't even offer what a core is worth .
 
Depends on how much is their and how rusted. Sight UN seen 100- in weight for #1Detroit iron.
 
Buying any engine is kind of a crap shoot. Even engines that are running can have cracks in the block or heads. About the only way to be sure is to tear down and inspect (magniflux) the engine. That's usually not possible beforehand if you are buying from a private party. Some wrecking yards used to guarantee that their engines are rebuildable but I don't know if they do that anymore. If you know the seller well, maybe he will be willing to guarantee that the engine is good. If not, just don't pay too much for it. Nothing worse than buying a $500 boat anchor.
 
Im not trying to be smart here, but why bother? 383's are so cheap.

i just picked up a running 68 383 and 727 out of a running car for 500 bucks

running, meaning, I drove the car the day before it was pulled, they are out there, its a roll of the dice if its not torn down to see exactly what is going on with it .
 
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Oops I ment it won't turn over. I just got a hold of him. He says it won't turn over due to surface rust on lifters. Won't let cam turn.

It also has forged crank, 906 heads and 4 Speed Transmission Pilot Bearing Shaft Hole in Crank
 
I've had to take my share of seized engines apart here at my business, and sometimes there isn't a lot of good stuff left. That 383 could me more difficult than others in the fact that sometimes you can't get to the rod nuts because of the block skirting. I know people will say you can soak the cylinders in penetrating oil for a time first, before disassembly but sometimes it doesn't matter. More than once I've had to torch the rods off to get the crank out, so you can drive the pistons out with something very heavy and large! I use a cut off axle for these extreme cases. Like others say if you plan on boring the cylinders and grinding the crank, throwing the rods away and exerting a lot of energy with no guaranty then muscle up ! A word of advice, check the bore first and make sure it is standard. If it isn't I wouldn't waste my time.
 
I personally agree with many of the posts here. You are dealing with a used big time "unknown" and a current owner who is probably clueless at best or full of sh*t at the worst.

You know, the "I'm sure it just needs a tune up" type as you hear the rod knocking around in the crank case.

So, IMO, Unless you have a BIG need for this engine I'd shy away from it. OR you can offer the guy....honestly and being cheap...$50-$75 for it and even then you may just have 'lost' that much $$$. Hopefully it is a rebuildable core. If not, then you can always get some of your $$$ back from the scrap value.
 
I've had to take my share of seized engines apart here at my business, and sometimes there isn't a lot of good stuff left. That 383 could me more difficult than others in the fact that sometimes you can't get to the rod nuts because of the block skirting. I know people will say you can soak the cylinders in penetrating oil for a time first, before disassembly but sometimes it doesn't matter. More than once I've had to torch the rods off to get the crank out, so you can drive the pistons out with something very heavy and large! I use a cut off axle for these extreme cases. Like others say if you plan on boring the cylinders and grinding the crank, throwing the rods away and exerting a lot of energy with no guaranty then muscle up ! A word of advice, check the bore first and make sure it is standard. If it isn't I wouldn't waste my time.

X2

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I bought an engine for $350 that " just needed the valves adjusted".... and had one stuck in the piston... it was ticking not loudly it was amazing the damage but it had came out of a ticking and one dropped cylinder.... the engine was rebuilt but I spent money where I shouldn't have.
 
holy crap , we are going to clean and paint a locked up 75 dollar door stop , then throw a 70 barracuda in the background, and rape some body with one of the rusted/frozen/seized pistons right in the bunghole for the tune of almost 800 bucks

LOOKS to be standard bore? either it is or it isn't
 
What should you be looking for? Another engine!

Isn't that the small end of the rod with the pin still in it and the piston missing? Pass.
 
I agree with IQ52. (Apparently, he is much smarter than he advertises):icon_smile:

The ad implies that the 383 belongs to that "N" code 'Cuda.
A numbers matching engine would be well worth the price for him to rebuild unless it was really messed up. And put it back in that car.

I've seen much better for that same price.
 
holy crap , we are going to clean and paint a locked up 75 dollar door stop , then throw a 70 barracuda in the background, and rape some body with one of the rusted/frozen/seized pistons right in the bunghole for the tune of almost 800 bucks

LOOKS to be standard bore? either it is or it isn't

It could measure out to a standard bore.... rust will expand ... I would have said it was a '59 383 and it might have caught someone..... I bet the car is a Photoshop LOL
 
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