Hot natured 440?

[747mopar]

If it runs hot with a gutted thermostat then either you have a problem at the engine or the coolant system isn't up to the task. Most things have already been covered, timing, lean burn, air in the system, pump, etc, once everything is confirmed good on the engine side I'd be suspecting the radiator. The boiling sound definitely makes me think you have problem though.

 

[Dennis H]

As above, thermal laser temp gun, green coolant, 180 Stant Superstat. Is there a shroud?
I paid $400 for the 26" recore at a local shop.

 

[miller]

The boiling sound definitely makes me think you have problem though.

That's what I am thinking, 747mopar. Why I broke down, and asked.
Crap! Already have more than $400 in the radiator, including that $300 charge (yeah, yikes!) for boiling it out. Guess I should have went 40 miles down the road!

As far as I'm concerned, at 300 miles, motor is broke in, parts and pieces, and such. Usually call it good at 100 miles, for ring seating. Shouldn't be anything in the engine...so, guess I'm looking at the radiator.

No time on it today, cutting grass, honey-dos, you know the drill.
I'll see if I can find a temp gun, Monday. Just for kicks.

 

[miller]

Is there a shroud?

Yeah, two piece metal.

 

[moparedtn]

The Griffin radiators Ehrenberg turned me onto:
http://www.griffinrad.com/exact_fit.php?tid=2
Be forewarned: They're pricy. Worth every damn penny for the peace of mind, though.
Been there, suffered that.

 

[Ranger16]

I'll see if I can find a temp gun, Monday. Just for kicks.

https://www.harborfreight.com/non-contact-infrared-thermometer-with-laser-targeting-69465.html

 

[Dennis H]

I went cheap. Have 2 of these. I like to check underhood temps of other cars at shows on occasion to rationalize/justify the cost of the Ceramic coated TTI's. Always 100 degrees lower than others.

 

[Dennis H]

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Las...TF8&qid=1528057421&sr=8-3&keywords=Laser+temp Cheap. I have 2.

 

[oldbee]

Was talking to a guy today with a 496engine,pusher fan in front,March pullys,22” rad.,180*t-stat, high volume w/p. He put a restricter from Summit in lower hose & solved his problem. Also said he was a lurker on FBBO, I told him to sign up!!! (Coolant wasn’t staying in rad long enuf to cool down)

 

[moparedtn]

Was talking to a guy today with a 496engine,pusher fan in front,March pullys,22” rad.,180*t-stat, high volume w/p. He put a restricter from Summit in lower hose & solved his problem. Also said he was a lurker on FBBO, I told him to sign up!!! (Coolant wasn’t staying in rad long enuf to cool down)

That's sort of why I've stuck with a stock water pump instead of a high flow one. Who knows....

 

[oldbee]

That's sort of why I've stuck with a stock water pump instead of a high flow one. Who knows....

Indeed! Stock pump on mine with clutch can&shroud. Believe he was watching ur troubles & then someone/somewhere clued him in.

 

[moparedtn]

Indeed! Stock pump on mine with clutch can&shroud. Believe he was watching ur troubles & then someone/somewhere clued him in.

Wish they'd have clued ME in....

 

[mopar 3 B]

Two small and restrictive air cleaner will cause a lean burn and over heating. Before ripping you're hair out an o2 reading may solve the story.

 

[miller]

Thanks for the link, Ranger16! I'll hit Harborfreight this morning. I'll be curious what it shows.

Yes, I know the coolant needs time in the radiator, to actually cool. To be honest, after the radiator was boiled out, was somewhat disappointed, far as I'm concerned, should have been much cleaner. Especially with what the SOB charged me. But, when your between a rock, and a hard place...

Re-coring is usually only needed, for 'damaged' cores, right? Been to dang long, since I've messed with these things.
Overall, the radiator looks in good shape, including the cores. Unless it has a bunch blocked, from leaking. I'm going to hunt down other shops, in nearby towns, while I'm thinking things out.

Unless there's something else going on, there's no reason the radiator isn't enough. Except, not being done right.

 

[Wietse]

My 440 shows just over the middle in the dash gauge once on temperature, guessing 210 Deg F, my additional temp sensor say 88-90 Deg C.
To me that should be no problem, from what you are describing regarding the temp gauge. (Yes, it's normal that the gauge pops way out of scale after a shut down)
For the engine it will be better to run at these temperatures instead of too cold.
Running lean is also a good point to check, i recently checked mine and runs 12.5 AFR average i guess with 13.5 at idle

I am running a 26" rad, (flushed myself) a 180* thermostat and a Flex-a-Lite 18" fan direct driven without clutch and a standard plastic fan shroud.

 

[miller]

Remembering back in the day, and thinking on things now, on one of my thermostat changes, I let it idle with the cap off. Just to watch both the gauge, and when flow started. Flow seems slower, than I remember.

Two small and restrictive air cleaner will cause a lean burn and over heating.

Standard type air cleaners used on a cross ram.

 

[miller]

Rain the next few days. But, have one of those temp guns, now.
Figure, when I get time, I'll test the radiator to see if it's cooling any, or enough.

 

[coloradodave]

Rain the next few days. But, have one of those temp guns, now.
Figure, when I get time, I'll test the radiator to see if it's cooling any, or enough.

Along with checking the temperature when fully warmed up below the thermostat, at the radiator inlet and at the radiator outlet, you can also check the core. From the grill side, start at the top and check slowly, horizontally across the core. Then drop down a few inches and repeat. Keep dropping down and repeating. Looking for even temperature across the core at each level; progressively showing cooler as you go lower. Any blockages will become apparent. Those temp guns are handy little tools. We used to run our hands across the core to check for blockage, but that can "sting" ya...

 

[dryheat]

Years ago I fought an engine that would overheat despite replacing everything. I pressure checked the cooling system several times. Out of sheer frustration I finally picked up one of these ...

UVIEW 560000 Combustion Leak Tester

Turns out 1 stinking head bolt was slightly longer than the rest (bottomed out in block) which caused combustion gasses to enter the coolant.

 

[Johnpat]

What is your timing set at??
Initial & all in at 2500_3000.
Today's gas with low or no lead doesn't
burn the same.
Run more initial than normal 14-18 may be needed