How hot is too hot?

[69Bee]

First let me thank you for the observation regarding my enjoyment of these fine cars of years gone by... I love most all cool Muscle cars of the 50's, 60's and early 70's!!! My heart lies with the Mopar Super Stockers though...
Secondly,,, I actually do understand the science behind the cars and development,,,, as a matter of fact, I have a degree in it...LOL!
I first studied automotive engineering before expanding into Electrical engineering and eventually / primarily Robotic engineering.:grin:

Congrats on your education, I myself have a BSEET in Electrical Engineering, and am 4 classes short on my AS in Automotive Technology (they won't comp my last four classes from my BSEET :icon_confused. I had a class in Modern Control Systems, and found it pretty interesting. I will bet robots are fun, right...

Anyway, I merely was trying to show how the boiling point is raised as someone insinuated it was around 212 degrees, or at least that is how I read his comment.

As far as Ethylene Glycol vs. Proplyene Glycol, as long as it is properly maintained, it has a performance better margin over proplyene. Most things evaporate, and Proplyene is no different. They both are toxic, it just takes more Proplyene to harm humans. As I said earlier, properly maintained, Ethylene has never given me a corrosion problem, and I will continue to use it today. No, they didn't stop using it in the 60's, they still sell it. Also, ALL liquids come in sealed containers (not cans) due to leakage problems during shipping and handling.

 

[500stroker]

Sounds like you boys done struck a nerve.
Fact is everyone has a right to express his or her opinion.
God Bless The USA!
:iamwithstupid:

 

[67 B-body]

Congrats on your education, I myself have a BSEET in Electrical Engineering, and am 4 classes short on my AS in Automotive Technology (they won't comp my last four classes from my BSEET :icon_confused. I had a class in Modern Control Systems, and found it pretty interesting. I will bet robots are fun, right...

Anyway, I merely was trying to show how the boiling point is raised as someone insinuated it was around 212 degrees, or at least that is how I read his comment.

As far as Ethylene Glycol vs. Proplyene Glycol, as long as it is properly maintained, it has a performance better margin over proplyene. Most things evaporate, and Proplyene is no different. They both are toxic, it just takes more Proplyene to harm humans. As I said earlier, properly maintained, Ethylene has never given me a corrosion problem, and I will continue to use it today. No, they didn't stop using it in the 60's, they still sell it. Also, ALL liquids come in sealed containers (not cans) due to leakage problems during shipping and handling.

Ya,,, Robots are usually the focus of everyone's attention when we perform an FAT "Final Acceptance Test"..... Know one looks at what the rest of the PLC controls have to do or the work it takes to write all of those lines of logic.. All of the Mechanical engineering is taken for granted too....:happy7:

I'm glad the OP was able to fix his high temp issue without a bunch of expense and time...

 

[Inspector71]

Not trying to be a rain cloud on your parade

I've posted about this before. 66 sport Fury with a 318 Poly rebuilt with a custom cam, 4 bl and aluminum intake. Ran a little hot before the professional rebuild. Ran hot afterward. Got hotter and hotter but slowly. Ran 190 to 200 for about a year. Over the next couple of years, it started running 210 to 225. Finally, it got to the point where I could run it for about 30 minutes and then it began to spit radiator fluid. Along the way, I had the radiator replaced, triple core, thermostats one after another, fan clutch, tranny cooler, heat sending unit, flushes, you name it. People kept telling me I needed a fan shroud even though it didn't come with one. In the back of my mind, I knew it should run like it did from the factory and adding on extra stuff to cool it down was calming the symptons but not addressing the problem. But I listened to everyone else who insisted "nothing was really wrong." I took it to garage after garage in California and no luck. Took it to a specialty place in Lee's Summit that had it for months and found nothing wrong. They told me the water coming out of the dual exhaust was condensation. Took it home and with a friend attempted to adjust the valves. It wasn't condensation coming out of the pipes once warm but looked like a garden hose. Radiator fluid shot up through the oil galleys. Shut it down. Took off the intake and found green radiator fluid everywhere. Dropped the oil pan the next day and found a layer of green fluid on top of the oil. It had one or all of the following: blow head gaskets, cracked head, cracked block. The car ran 180 degrees from factory and the build was mild. If it is not running in the temp range it was supposed to run, I'd argue something is wrong. Try everything I did but I wouldn't let it go too long before considering what I ended up having wrong.

 

[snakeoil24]

We feel your pain.

I've posted about this before. 66 sport Fury with a 318 Poly rebuilt with a custom cam, 4 bl and aluminum intake. Ran a little hot before the professional rebuild. Ran hot afterward. Got hotter and hotter but slowly. Ran 190 to 200 for about a year. Over the next couple of years, it started running 210 to 225. Finally, it got to the point where I could run it for about 30 minutes and then it began to spit radiator fluid. Along the way, I had the radiator replaced, triple core, thermostats one after another, fan clutch, tranny cooler, heat sending unit, flushes, you name it. People kept telling me I needed a fan shroud even though it didn't come with one. In the back of my mind, I knew it should run like it did from the factory and adding on extra stuff to cool it down was calming the symptons but not addressing the problem. But I listened to everyone else who insisted "nothing was really wrong." I took it to garage after garage in California and no luck. Took it to a specialty place in Lee's Summit that had it for months and found nothing wrong. They told me the water coming out of the dual exhaust was condensation. Took it home and with a friend attempted to adjust the valves. It wasn't condensation coming out of the pipes once warm but looked like a garden hose. Radiator fluid shot up through the oil galleys. Shut it down. Took off the intake and found green radiator fluid everywhere. Dropped the oil pan the next day and found a layer of green fluid on top of the oil. It had one or all of the following: blow head gaskets, cracked head, cracked block. The car ran 180 degrees from factory and the build was mild. If it is not running in the temp range it was supposed to run, I'd argue something is wrong. Try everything I did but I wouldn't let it go too long before considering what I ended up having wrong.

The head gasket can be checked with carbon monoxide tester. Placed in the radiator fluid, and it will change color if exhaust gas is found in radiator.

 

[cwhubb]

totally normal