I give up. I'm done.

[Sweet5ltr]

Hey John,
I've been gone for sometime. The military has their iron fist on me again, but i'm very concerned on how you still are having overheating issues. You have obviously installed the 160* thermostat, have more than enough CFM being pushed and pulled through your radiator at idle from your mechanical puller and electrical pusher setup. Those are the "known's." The "unknowns" now, I would ask you to attempt to watch your battery voltage as your starter is trying to spin the engine over while at max operating temperatures (If it is dying out, I would attempt to say that you aren't running enough' cable to handle the voltage from your trunk mounted battery to your starter) and if it isn't changing dramatically, then I would return the starter immediately and replace it. That would be your first block to check. Turn down the timing to 10* initial (with a mopar elec. dist. it should be in turn 28* total after advance.) See if it makes a difference. I have been told to never run above 30-32* with today's pump gas (93 octane) and that was with 10.0:1 CR. I now am at 11.0:1, but the engine does run a bit hotter even with the E-brock aluminum heads and milder spec'ed camshaft. Check block two. I would consider going to advance and picking up a new 'stock' fan clutch, seeing if that makes ANY difference, and if it doesn't-just returning it and stating that it didn't fit your application. That would be my final check. After this, I would be looking into issues with the water pump (which have been known to occur) and order a stock replacement piece. If the water pump didn't solve any issues, then I would then move on to the radiator and ordering a summit universal unit (by measuring your current radiator) and finding one that fits the bill. PM me if you can and update me on everything that has been going on. Hey, don't feel too bad.. My three month old MSD Ignition box died the day before I left for Georgia in the RR, broke a valve spring in my Z06 and window motor went out, now just yesterday my Starter went out in the Z06 and local dealer replaced it with an off the shelf unit under warranty.-Korey

 

[honcho]

go with 3" exhaust,had same problem but fixed it with the exhaust

 

[snakeoil24]

First eliminate the basics.

1. Purchase a head test kit 3 parts Bottle reagent and powder. It checks for carbon monoxide in radiator fluid. Cheap 10.00
2. Check timing. 12 degrees initial, full advance at 32 to 34. Check springs on advance.
3. Fuel Ratio 12.5 to 13.5
4. Good tight seal around entire radiator to shroud.
5. Viscous fan. save your money on flex fans.
6. Electric fans will cure nothing, maybe only partially mask issue.
7. Radiator core can not be to large or too small. 3 row aluminum max. Forget chinese crap.
8. Thermostat 180 f.
9. Hoses with good coil spring on bottom hose.
10. Bleed air from top end.
11. Put clay or silly putty inside of your water pump housing, seat the impeller if big block, and make sure you have .060 thousands gap be tween back of impeller and housing.
12. Impeller use Mopar and make sure impellor is properly attached to shaft and not slipping.
13. Pulleys are you using proper size or mix and match?? If not sure get correct pulleys.

 

[Revhendo]

Just a reminder, on one or twelve of JT's other posts he pretty much told us to piss off. Ya'll are giving really good advice to a ghost. (Most of the advice has already been given in all of his collected threads).

 

[MarPar]

Just a reminder, on one or twelve of JT's other posts he pretty much told us to piss off. Ya'll are giving really good advice to a ghost. (Most of the advice has already been given in all of his collected threads).

amen...

 

[67Satty]

Two things I haven't seen mentioned yet in this mess:

Is there a good ground strap between the engine block and the frame?

Is there a possibility it is vapor-locking?

If it were me, I would take off all the aftermarket electric fans stuff and go with:

Factory three core radiator recored with "high-effeciency" cores.

Stock shroud.

160 degree thermostat.

Good mini-starter.

Triple check timing.

Add some Water-wetter

K.I.S.S. works for me.

 

[ChgrSteve67]

I was over in the heating and cooling section of the forum and found a few of his threads with pictures of what i think is his current setup.

Custom shroud
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?t=33325

Custom fans
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?t=33984

personally I think he has way to much in the front of the car and is blocking air flow along with a shroud that is way too big. Personally I would want my fan to sit at the edge of the shroud and not way inside it.

Maybe if he had posted some of these pictures in this thread ......

 

[super-bee_ski]

John,
I'm not jumping on the band wagon, as a matter of fact, I was the first to call a "cool down period for all"
But: your quote: What is this about shimming a starter? Why would I have to go through that nightmare, and how exactly is this done and why?
Heck, this is basic stuff, shimming a starter!

 

[Sweet5ltr]

I would agree with everyone on keeping it simple stupid IF this was a factory build. Electric fans are not the issue in my opinion. They do not "mask an issue" when he is making 550hp in comparison to a realistic factory rating of 350hp at the flywheel. How many of you drive your vehicles legitimately every single day it doesn't rain? How many of you have been stuck, idling in traffic for fourty five minutes at 800-1,100RPM. The electric fans are used to cool the vehicle during THIS time period. He has 3,000cfm of airflow being forced through the radiator core at idle. I don't understand why he did not put the straps through the core and position them properly, but thats up to him. Mini starters do not tolerate heat as well as a factory starter. I've been on the band wagon and got off immediately when it barely turned the big block over at cold/warm conditions when rated for 12:1CR. Had major heat soaking issues. I know 383man has a street setup, and maybe he should chime in. How in the world is a factory radiator setup going to cool greater than an aftermarket aluminum radiator that is larger than the original? Maybe he has a clog in the core. It could be a variety of issues. He runs cool while driving, and hot while at idle. This signals a poor cooling system. He has plenty of airflow, now he needs to check some of the areas he refuses to look into. Meaning, a new radiator and water pump. Changing the timing to 10-12* initial and if all else fails, send it to the shop!

 

[Cranky]

Just a reminder, on one or twelve of JT's other posts he pretty much told us to piss off. Ya'll are giving really good advice to a ghost. (Most of the advice has already been given in all of his collected threads).

But there are probably others that are gleaning the info here for their cars so imo, this isn't a wasted thread.....

 

[minnesota guy]

I had overheating problems with a 440. Thermostat, and running lean are not the big factor here. O good viscous fan is all you need as well. in fact a properly cooling 440 will run correct w/o a shroud, to a degree.
Two areas I found to be problematic:
1. 3-4 core radiator for these 440's are a must
2. my problem was the block--the block was plugged--it sat in the tank too long and took in all the sediment from the hot tank, that and the inside the block--it was very scaly. I chipped all that away and dug a long screw driver in and around the block passages inside the block.

You need to make sure that block is good. Thin cylinders from boring will also crack and cause overheating. I ran into that with a 360 in my 1987 Dodge 4x4. I only went .030 over, and I took it to pick up a Cordoba. It began overheating on the way home. cylinder cracked. It always put air in the radiator hose. Is your radiator hose swelling more than it should?
I make sure all my 440 blocks are clean and thoroughly washed out after the hot tank. A plugged block will make them overheat as well.
Just my 2 cents from personal experience.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

I would question the use of 2 fans. One electric and one fixed. You have 2 fans moving air at 2 different speeds, this will cause turbulence inbetween the two. If this is happening, this could cause a lack of airflow across the radiator. I would recommend throwing the flex fan in the garbage and either running just the electric fan,or if need be get a mopar fan with a clutch.

 

[Revhendo]

He has 3,000cfm of airflow being forced through the radiator core at idle. I don't understand why he did not put the straps through the core and position them properly, but thats up to him.

1. Is it actually getting through the radiator? I've seen big gazzillion core radiators fail where a factory 3 core worked just fine. Think of a 10 mph breeze going through a chain link fence. Then consider the same breeze going through a screen door.

2. This one is easy. Those pegs ruin fins. Stand a chance of damaging the tubes. Hang weight on the radiator core that isn't designed to carry weight. With repeated heat cycles will become brittle and break. If it was the proper way to do it, you can bet the factory would've saved a buck on brackets and just strapped them puppies on.

3. You are correct, the fans should be placed as close to the radiator as possible.

 

[no462of12K]

coolant-

during all of the back and forth nothing was said about the coolant-this is what removes the heat and the air cools it-is the coolant 50/50 -70-30,or 100 percent pure antifreeze-nothing was said about the temp gauge-is it stock or aftermarket--how full is the radiator-the cap(new or old-what psi)hoses tight-if all else fails-add some water wetter (20degrees cooler colant temp my 2 cents


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