Ignintion causing stall while driving...help

[wsutard]

How do I take the metal prong out of the connector? So I don't mess it up.

 

[wsutard]

Never mind. Got it

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

I have the FSM. Was hard to pin point the section I needed to read.

OK, I'll give you credit for at least having the FSM. Now you need to practice persistence and perseverance. The way to learn about your car is in that FSM, the amount of valuable information in there is unbelievable. Typing a couple questions and hoping someone else will troubleshoot, diagnose, and repair your car over the internet is not the way to learn anything. Here's your hint, look at pages 8-101, 104,105,106,& 107 with standard dash. Everything you need is there.

 

[Ranger16]

I think this electrical issue points to a problem with the key system. However, I am going to test the ballast resistor first since it is so easy to get at. Can anyone guide me through testing these two components?

At this point I think you can forget the ballast resistor.

 

[Ranger16]

Check the starter relay and, more specifically, the ignition wire from the bulkhead connector to the relay (condition and contact). If both of those are in acceptable working condition it's the ignition switch.

Yeah ^^^^ Can't emphasize this enough.

Pay close attention to the connectors. I had a similar problem a few months ago at the Farmington Minn. Mopar show. Turned out to be a badly oxidized connector on the starter relay. Scraped it clean with a pocket knife in the hotel parking lot and it ran fine all the way home.

 

[Lionized]

Well you've certainly found at least one issue with your wiring. You can make up a new ignition wire while your new forward light harness is on order from Year One. The Packard 56 connectors you will need are available from Ebay.

 

[wsutard]

OK, fixed the wire with an insulated female spade connector. I will order the Packard connectors and revert back to the standard plug later.

Thanks for the direction on the FSM. I did a search for the terms that I thought would find the right section but I guess wasn't patient enough.

I'm not convinced my initial problem had anything to do with this wire since I have never had issues engaging the starter. Only issues when the ignition switch is in the ON position.

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

Just another note on your wiring. I was looking at your photos from previous post, and I can see that someone has bypassed the Neutral Safety Switch on your car. This is a DANGEROUS situation, as your car can and will start when in gear which could cause serious injury to you.

It is the short brown wire that is grounded to the firewall at the starter relay mounting screw. This is not factory and is DANGEROUS, use at your own risk. I've done my part by telling you about it.

 

[wsutard]

Good catch. I will look for that in the FSM as well.

Why would someone bypass this?

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

Good catch. I will look for that in the FSM as well.

Why would someone bypass this?

Usually because the NSS is bad or the gear shift linkage is misadjusted causing the car to not CRANK with the key and they don't know what is causing it and/or don't know how to fix it. Once again, a simple circuit and easy to repair with a little troubleshooting effort.

Is this an automatic car? or 4-speed? The circuits are slightly different.

 

[wsutard]

Usually because the NSS is bad or the gear shift linkage is misadjusted causing the car to not CRANK with the key and they don't know what is causing it and/or don't know how to fix it. Once again, a simple circuit and easy to repair with a little troubleshooting effort.

Is this an automatic car? or 4-speed? The circuits are slightly different.

4 Speed.

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

4 Speed.

That figures, I don't have a 4-speed. If I remember correctly though, the 4-speeds have the grounding switch connected to the clutch pedal, requiring you to push the pedal to the floor before the car will start.

 

[Lionized]

4 Speed.

That starter relay is for an automatic. There is no tab for a ground on the 4 speed relay.

 

[wsutard]

That starter relay is for an automatic. There is no tab for a ground on the 4 speed relay.

That would make sense since this car was originally a 318 Auto, converted to a 340 4 speed.

 

[Lionized]

That figures, I don't have a 4-speed. If I remember correctly though, the 4-speeds have the grounding switch connected to the clutch pedal, requiring you to push the pedal to the floor before the car will start.

I believe that's 1970 and later.

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

I believe that's 1970 and later.

So, there is NO protection from starting in gear on a '69 with manual trans??

 

[Lionized]

So, there is NO protection from starting in gear on a '69 with manual trans??

Aside from pushing in the clutch? Not that I know of.

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

Aside from pushing in the clutch? Not thatI know of.

Thanks, didn't know that.

So, that probably applies to all manual trans Mopar's prior to '70 then?? Correct?

 

[wsutard]

OK, back to the original subject. I have a ballast on order, should have it Wednesday. Amazon of all places had it.

Anyway, how do I do some testing to narrow this down? I'm thinking there has to be a way to test the ignition switch at the ballast to see if the switch is faulty.

The fact that the car will initially start and run fine, but upon restart wont run, is throwing me for a loop. If it was a bad switch I would experience the issues on the initial run as well as a restart run. From what I have read, when a ballast goes it goes all the way, something like 1/1000 where the ballast will basically weld the filament back together and run, but then break again. (this would explain why it will run fine the next day but would be incredibly unlikely)

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

OK, back to the original subject. I have a ballast on order, should have it Wednesday. Amazon of all places had it.

Anyway, how do I do some testing to narrow this down? I'm thinking there has to be a way to test the ignition switch at the ballast to see if the switch is faulty.

The fact that the car will initially start and run fine, but upon restart wont run, is throwing me for a loop. If it was a bad switch I would experience the issues on the initial run as well as a restart run. From what I have read, when a ballast goes it goes all the way, something like 1/1000 where the ballast will basically weld the filament back together and run, but then break again. (this would explain why it will run fine the next day but would be incredibly unlikely)

You can test the ignition switch very easily through the bulkhead connectors on the engine side of the firewall. You WILL need a DMM and know how to use it. Got one?