Ignition timing and transmission issue

[redgumby]

What kind of total timing is recommended 528 inch aluminum head engine. Max effort drag engine .630 lift cam 4500 rpm converter and trans brake. Also there seems to be no shift into direct even with the manual valve body. Any ideas or recommendations thanks.

 

[493 Mike]

What kind of total timing is recommended 528 inch aluminum head engine. Max effort drag engine .630 lift cam 4500 rpm converter and trans brake. Also there seems to be no shift into direct even with the manual valve body. Any ideas or recommendations thanks.

You need to supply a lot more information about your combination to get credible answers.
Mike

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Do some timing laps. Probably start at 32 and add degrees each run until it slows.

 

[Lefty71]

Do some timing laps. Probably start at 32 and add degrees each run until it slows.

Ummm. I think he needs to fix third gear first. Otherwise, i agree 100 percent.

 

[oldkimmer]

Do some timing laps. Probably start at 32 and add degrees each run until it slows.

Pretty hard to do with no 3rd gear

 

[redgumby]

You need to supply a lot more information about your combination to get credible answers.
Mike

What do you all need to know?

 

[dvw]

Does it not make the shift? Or does it slip? If it doesn't make the shift I'd put the trans in 3rd gear. Then pull the clip off the linkage at the trans lever. The rod/pin should drop right into the hole in the shifter arm with no binding. adjust as necesary. Its also possible the wrong style neutral safety switch is binding on the rooster comb. If it slips the trans needs to come out. Timing with aluminum heads start at 32. Add 2 degrees at a time until the mph doesn't increase. Then back it off 1 degree. Quicker ET by adding timing with no mph increase is on the ragged edge.
Doug

 

[redgumby]

Does it not make the shift? Or does it slip? If it doesn't make the shift I'd put the trans in 3rd gear. Then pull the clip off the linkage at the trans lever. The rod/pin should drop right into the hole in the shifter arm with no binding. adjust as necesary. Its also possible the wrong style neutral safety switch is binding on the rooster comb. If it slips the trans needs to come out. Timing with aluminum heads start at 32. Add 2 degrees at a time until the mph doesn't increase. Then back it off 1 degree. Quicker ET by adding timing with no mph increase is on the ragged edge.
Doug

No shift. Have set the linkage several times,all seems good. Fresh rebuild. Thanks will check that all

 

[493 Mike]

No shift. Have set the linkage several times,all seems good. Fresh rebuild. Thanks will check that all

Pull off the valve body and air pressure test the front clutch or use the test ports (1/8"), pipe plugs with a 300# gauge for pressure amount. FSM will have procedure and OEM specs.
Mike

 

[Doorkicker]

As for the timing part of the question... things that would be helpful to know are:
* engine base? I'm assuming a stroked 440?
* cam duration
* cam lsa
* what's the cam's advance (grind and/or installed)
* static CR
* simple description of ignition system
* injected or normally aspirated?
* boosted? if so, pressure?
* fuel type and octane
* head specs would be helpful too

I can't help with the transmission... those things are my Achillies's heal.

 

[dvw]

No shift. Have set the linkage several times,all seems good. Fresh rebuild. Thanks will checkI

I'd be looking at the oil circuit to the forward clutch piston and the release side of the KD servo. I've seen forward pistons stick and cause this condition.
Doug

 

[redgumby]

I'd be looking at the oil circuit to the forward clutch piston and the release side of the KD servo. I've seen forward pistons stick and cause this condition.
Doug

Reverse works great, so does the trans brake so that says the forward clutch should be working.

 

[dvw]

Reverse works great, so does the trans brake so that says the forward clutch should be working.

It only takes the forward clutch and rear clutch to engage 3rd. So if reverse and the brake work the forward clutch, reaction shaft support rings and reaction shaft suport and case should all be ok. Fluid is being fed thru the valve body ito the case in those selections. There must be an issue with the flow path thru the valve body with the manual valve in the 3rd gear position not feeding the front clutch passage in the case. easy to check. put a gauge in the front servo port. It should show pressure in 3rd and rev.
Doug

 

[Doorkicker]

@redgumby --- ok I looked at your other post in Welcome Wagon where you shared some good info. What is your initial timing? What RPM is it at total? Sounds like your concern is that it's sluggish at the start but levels out, correct?

And you retarded the cam 4*?

 

[redgumby]

@redgumby --- ok I looked at your other post in Welcome Wagon where you shared some good info. What is your initial timing? What RPM is it at total? Sounds like your concern is that it's sluggish at the start but levels out, correct?

And you retarded the cam duration @.050 int 271 exh 275 lsa 108. 12.5 to 1 compression 76cc heads. Cam is installed 4* retarded. I don't know what initial timing is as it runs of the trans brake at 4500 plus rpm. Total timing was 38* set above 3500 rpm. Yes, it seems slow coming off the brake but then winds up very nicely.

 

[redgumby]

It only takes the forward clutch and rear clutch to engage 3rd. So if reverse and the brake work the forward clutch, reaction shaft support rings and reaction shaft suport and case should all be ok. Fluid is being fed thru the valve body ito the case in those selections. There must be an issue with the flow path thru the valve body with the manual valve in the 3rd gear position not feeding the front clutch passage in the case. easy to check. put a gauge in the front servo port. It should show pressure in 3rd and rev.
Doug

What psi? At idle or rpm?

 

[dvw]

In 3rd it should be 90-100 with some rpm. Reverse closer to 300
Doug