I'm getting close to switching to a roller cam in the big block!

[Kern Dog]

Hello,
I am slowly coming around to making the switch to a roller cam for my 440/495. I thought in my travels here and there that these require a special timing set where the cam sprocket has a Torrington bearing. Is that true?

 

[JDJG]

Hello,
I am slowly coming around to making the switch to a roller cam for my 440/495. I thought in my travels here and there that these require a special timing set where the cam sprocket has a Torrington bearing. Is that true?

Hi Kern Dog
There are several alternatives for the timing gear set. I would suggest getting a set with multiple keyways on the crank sprocket to allow flexibility when degreeing the cam in set up. Also you will need a cam button for the larger cam sprocket to limit fore and aft movement of the roller cam.

 

[not so famous bob]

Hi Kern Dog
There are several alternatives for the timing gear set. I would suggest getting a set with multiple keyways on the crank sprocket to allow flexibility when degreeing the cam in set up. Also you will need a cam button for the larger cam sprocket to limit fore and aft movement of the roller cam.

I`d use a double roller anyway with the cam button at least , multiple keyways are a great help...
Don't forget to sabilize the chain cover , stockers will flex when the cam hits it...
preferably 3 bolt..

 

[gkent]

A set with a torrington bearing is certainly nice to have. Take a look at the Australian brand Rollmaster.

Also, they sets with oversized sprockets to take up slack as a result of line boring, etc..

"Replacement parts available: Seals, Torrington Bearings, Shims, Oil Pump Spacers & ChainsMost timing sets available for Line Bore applications. Example: LB2,LB5,LB10 as suffix"

 

[4mulas]

Good question! Not sure but I think you need a cam button of some sort to prevent the cam from walking, setting end play, and hitting the timing cover?
Full Roller Cam Button

 

[Nxcoupe]

I`d use a double roller anyway with the cam button at least , multiple keyways are a great help...
Don't forget to sabilize the chain cover , stockers will flex when the cam hits it...
preferably 3 bolt..

I think I've seen guys weld a plate on the inside of the cover to keep flex under control. What have you seen? I am doing this swap on everyone of my engine rebuilds.

 

[dodgeboy440]

I think I've seen guys weld a plate on the inside of the cover to keep flex under control. What have you seen? I am doing this swap on everyone of my engine rebuilds.

Billet cover / no flex

 

[dodgeboy440]

I`d use a double roller anyway with the cam button at least , multiple keyways are a great help...
Don't forget to sabilize the chain cover , stockers will flex when the cam hits it...
preferably 3 bolt..

It’s almost mandatory to reduce / eliminate cam walking .
If you don’t you’ll educate yourself very quickly $$$$

 

[BSB67]

To your question: Yes, I would suggest the gear set with the Torrington rollers for the thrust against the block surface.

I like the nylon button for cam walk.

 

[dodgeboy440]

To your question: Yes, I would suggest the gear set with the Torrington rollers for the thrust against the block surface.

I like the nylon button for cam walk.

ROlLMASTER is….” The cats meow”…..as they say !

Awesome Stuff !!

GETT SUMM…..

 

[Bird 426]

I stopped my stock Hemi timing cover from flexing this way. First, I got my cam walk to about .010. Then I mixed some epoxy fiberglass resin and flox cotton fiber to thicken the mixture. Taped the cover off or fiberglass release, put a small glob where the button hits and then installed the water pump housing. Let it set up. This stops the cover from flexing. Or you can go billet.

 

[69Bee]

You MUST get a "Roller Cam" timing set. Yes, the chain is roller (single/double), but the cam gear is designed to mate to a roller cam as the snout it is different. Now, you can get or use your original if it is good if you order a "Retro-Fit" roller cam. The cam snout is made to be the same as a flat tappet cam. You will also need a cam button as there is no cam thrust plate to prevent cam walk. And of course, the lifters will be the link bar style to prevent them from rotating. People above pointed this out also. I agree with the Torrington bearing timing set as it reduces friction between the cam gear and block.

 

[qkcuda]

I just welded a large flat washer to the front of the timing cover. It butts right up against the back of the water pump and eliminates any flex. Then use a cam button and set the end play.

 

[Kern Dog]

Thanks guys.
This is new to me. I read that the Torrington bearing for the cam sprocket was recommended but I wanted to make sure.
Regarding the cam button….010 sure isn’t much. I’m guessing that you have to account for the thickness of the timing cover gasket when measuring?

 

[RemCharger]

Yes, you want the cover bolted on as it will be final installed.

 

[Bird 426]

Trying to remember, seems like the Rollmaster set I used had the Torrington bearing in the back of the cam sprocket. I used a dial indicator off the back of the cam for cam walk. Your gonna have several cycles of fitting. It all has to be together to check it. Have a Comp cams button number and probably the Rollmaster numbers if you need them.

 

[33 IMP]

Are you looking at a cast iron cam, or billet steel?
Billet will require a melonized or bronze distributor drive gear.
And your timing set will likely have to be three bolt.
I have read opinions (on A-bodies) that big blocks don't need a thrust button, because of how the front distributor is aligned.
I run a button in my roller motor anyway.

 

[BSB67]

Are you looking at a cast iron cam, or billet steel?
Billet will require a melonized or bronze distributor drive gear.
And your timing set will likely have to be three bolt.
I have read opinions (on A-bodies) that big blocks don't need a thrust button, because of how the front distributor is aligned.
I run a button in my roller motor anyway.

When you take them apart and see the witness marks on stuff, you’ll understand that the “theory” that you don’t need one is rubbish.

 

[Nxcoupe]

Are you looking at a cast iron cam, or billet steel?
Billet will require a melonized or bronze distributor drive gear.
And your timing set will likely have to be three bolt.
I have read opinions (on A-bodies) that big blocks don't need a thrust button, because of how the front distributor is aligned.
I run a button in my roller motor anyway.

They make cast iron roller cams? How do they hold up to the steel roller lifters? It would def solve the distributor drive gear issue.

 

[Kern Dog]

The stock roller cams in the 1992-2002 5.2 and 5.9 engines were cast iron.