Jason's 68 coronet build

[jason79]

Front pan first. Then left rear, followed by right rear.

 

[jason79]

Ok so I have come across a small hurdle in the build. This car is made from combining 2 cars. One was complete, but to far gone. The other, the one I restored, was just a rolling shell. No doors, fenders, trunk lid, or interior. The car that was too far gone had good doors, hood, fenders, and interior. Most of the exterior trim was shot, but that's for another day. Here is the hurdle. The car I am restoring is a non AC car. The one I have all the parts for was an AC car. I am to far in to cut a ton of holes in the fire wall. I am in need of a AC heater box! Not worried about the dash. A couple of non functional vents doesn't bother me.

 

[jason79]

Sorry, I am in need of a NON AC heater box and controls! I have an AC heater box I would be willing to trade, or I will buy the non AC box outright.

 

[jason79]

As far as progress, I have the dash sanded, shot with epoxy and low gloss black. Turned out nice.

 

[jason79]

Starting to dig out the rest of the dash components. Turns out I need a dimmer switch also. Guess I have some shopping to do. Words of wisdom, if you are going to tear apart a car to be restored, bag and label everything. Really wish I would have done that 16 years ago. I have definitely learned my leason. Sandwich bags and sharpies are my best friend in the shop now.

 

[themechanic]

Nice. There is a repop of the center vent available from Classic Auto Air.

Since you are using the A/C dash why don't you use the A/C box or just order a new kit from Vintage Air or Classic Auto Air? Doesn't it get hot in IL?

 

[jason79]

I would use the heater box I have, but the holes in the firewall are completely different. I am using the AC dash in case I add AC of some sort down the road, because it can get stupid hot and humid it IL.

 

[jason79]

Thanks for the info on the center vent.

 

[themechanic]

Sure thing

 

[jason79]

So I have made a decision. Already balls deep into this restoration, so why not go for it. I'm turning a non AC car into a factory AC car. Getting a template made up. Measured and found a couple of bolt holes that line up between the two firewalls. Got everything marked on cardboard after kids go to bed will transfer and start cutting.

 

[jason79]

The template lined up perfect in the car. With a little help from the air saw and a step bit, we now have a factory AC car!

 

[themechanic]

Wow, you work fast. Looks good. You can get factory air parts from those A/C companies I mentioned before.

 

[jason79]

Starting to get the dash and wiring in order.

 

[themechanic]

You can get nice looking (unstripped head) new screw sets from EBay that will help on reassembly. I use ANT Motorsports and Partsmix.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-1970-DODGE-CORONET-INTERIOR-SCREW-KIT-110pcs-/311661799388

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-68-69...to-Console-Screw-Kit-42-pcs-New-/151882074980

 

[jason79]

Thanks for the heads up on the screw kit. For some reason it doesn't come up in a search for a 68. I went ahead and ordered the kit you posted. 30 bucks nice price too.

 

[themechanic]

I misplaced the list that comes in the package and found it yesterday. I suggest you take a photo, scan it or otherwise make a copy so you will know where each screw goes.

 

[jason79]

Good idea on the list. Couple of questions.
1. On the quarter window interior trim panel the weather seal is stapled on. I need to replace this when I paint the interior trim this weekend. How do I apply the new one, since I do not have a stapler that will pierce metal?
2. The roof rail trim that screws on the bottom of the drip rail shows a sealer in the service manual. What kind of sealer is this?
3. Last for now. How do the quarter window regulators come out? I have one loose but can't seem to find the right angle to get it out the top or bottom. I am rebuilding one side at a time so I have a reference on assembly.

 

[themechanic]

1. I don't know.
2. http://www.ebay.com/itm/360730797489?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
3. Unscrew the glass and take it out first. See the following links that helped me:

Most helpful - (see post #55) http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/alv-69-dodge-gts-project.254194/page-3

And (post #63) here http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/alv-69-dodge-gts-project.254194/page-3#post-1970215229



http://www.hotrod.com/articles/no-more-crank-windows/


http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1968-plymouth-barracuda-side-glass-regulators-and-window-alignment/


http://www.chargersourceguide.com/sidewindows.html


https://blog.drivenrestorations.com/2014/06/mopar-window-repairreplacements-1970-b.html

 

[JimKueneman]

Jason I just pulled them from my 68 to rebuild. I did not take the up stops off so I have a reference frame to realign. Take the tracks out and unbolt the regulator. You can "unfold" the regulator past the moon gear to "stretch it out" and the regulator will fit out the top first with the "X" frame behind it

Now payback. Can you take good photos of the one still on the car looking down into the top slot. Mainly where the double roller is. I took all kinds of pictures from the inner panel but none from the top

 

[themechanic]

Now payback. Can you take good photos of the one still on the car looking down into the top slot. Mainly where the double roller is. I took all kinds of pictures from the inner panel but none from the top

Jim,

Take a look at my links as there may be the photo you need in one of them.