Jeremey's Ivy Green Metallic 1970 Plymouth Satellite Sport 2 Door Hardtop

[Basket case]

sounds like real life has reared it's ugly head. Don't feel like the Lone Ranger, it happens to all of us. MHO..don't swap a '69 front on your '70. Bottom line it's your car to do as you please without question, but you should have no problem selling the ;69 parts for the $$ for the '70 parts. Keep plugging away! You'll get there.

 

[Aesthetikz]

I have started the Rebuild process of the Original Carburetor:

This will be the first Carburetor I've Rebuilt Besides small Lawnmower Carbs.

Everything is currently soaking in Pine-Sol for the next 24 hours.

PS: Is this supposed to be bent/tweaked like this?

And would I be able to just go somewhere like Autozone and get a replacement brass screw for the main plate? The head twisted off on one of them.

- JDB

 

[Photon440]

Just take your shaft with you to the store and find a screw that matches. You'll likely end up with a longer one that you'll have to shorten. These are 'staked' or peened over to prevent them from backing out, it's usually best to file off the tip to allow it to be removed.

Actually, unless it's absolutely needed to remove the shaft, such as having to bush a worn shaft or hole it's better not to take off the plates in future.

The bent rod looks normal to me.

 

[Aesthetikz]

Yea I didn't realize that the screws were (Staked?) until the one snapped. Live and learn I suppose. I carefully filed down the other one.

I figured I would clean everything thoroughly if I was going to dive into it.

I mean the diaphragm housing looks bent. I feel like it's not working correctly, So, I'll just get a replacement choke pull off at Autozone for $8.99.

Carburetor Rebuild - Day 2
Parts removed from the 24 Hour Pine-Sol Soak:

Light Scrub and Dry:

The Pine-Sol seems to have stained or tarnished the metal. I was hoping this would not happen. I believe I left the items to soak far longer than needed:

Clean and shiny:

Heard a loud crash outside and found this lil' guy:

Notes:
Parts only need to soak in pure pine-sol for about 6-8 hours to achieve max de-greasing efficiency.
I put the items in an empty paint can with the lid on. Be careful doing this, The lid popped itself off (from internal pressure) after several hours.
Pine-Sol quickly and easily tarnishes/discolors Copper and Brass. And possibly Cast Iron if left too long.
Pine-Sol Stinks!!! (Literally)
Next time I might try a "Purple Power" Soak.

- JDB

 

[Photon440]

Aside from a quick soak in some varsol, I find that spray on gasket remover does a great job of quickly eradicating grease, stains from dried gas and varnish build up. Also works fine if there happens to be a piece of gasket stuck to a surface.

http://www.autozone.com/miscellaneo...er/permatex-low-voc-gasket-remover/35009_0_0/

Don't forget to restake those screws after they're back in the shaft. You'll want to brace them from the back to prevent any bending.

 

[roadrunnerman]

Gumout or any carb cleaner works just as well.

 

[Ron 73]

Gumout or any carb cleaner works just as well.

X-2

 

[Photon440]

On my carbs, I found gasket remover to be more aggressive than carb cleaner. In the end though, yes they all work.

 

[Aesthetikz]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I was looking for an overnight soak that wouldn't be too harsh and destroy anything, As a starter to the cleaning process. I had read that the Pine-Sol was a good choice for that and just as effective as Berrymans'.

I've run into a snag with the Rebuild Kit and just Ordered a new one. So, I'll be set back a few days.

- JDB

 

[Ron 73]

As good as this is going along, a day or two will work in your favor to have it right!

 

[Aesthetikz]

Despite the lack of updates (I'll post my progress soon) I have been continually working in this.

I ran into various small problems and had to order parts.

However...
I have now run into a serious problem.

The top plate is very warped.
I'm trying to come up with a fix for this.

Judging by the screw heads, This carb has been taken apart at least once before I dug into it. And they over tightened the top plate screws too much, Which over-compressed the gasket and pulled the metal around the screws downward. It is like this on all of them. It makes the surface (Which should be flat) wavy all around.

Any ideas or suggestions on how to fix this?

With a thick gasket I think it might be ok, However, both of my kits have very thin gaskets.
I fear I may have to (Attempt to) find a whole top plate at the junkyard.

- JDB

- - - Updated - - -

- JDB

 

[roadrunnerman]

if you don't find a good one at the junkyard, let me know and I can look in my parts box to see if I have one that might work.

 

[Aesthetikz]

Still not really sure how to fix this problem.

No go at the JY.
Nothing but a sea of PT Cruisers, Jeeps and Caravans in the Chrysler section. Just a handful of cars older than 1980 in the whole yard.
I did oddly enough find a billet style grill for the DD Astro Van on the cheap. :glasses10:

- JDB

 

[roadrunnerman]

I see the number on the carb. will be home this weekend so i'll look and see what I got.

 

[Aesthetikz]

Hey Everyone~
3 Years ago today, I brought home my Baby:

Since then, Life has been tough. And it's hard to get through the day sometimes.
Because of that, Not a lot of progress has been made.

I just wanted to stop in and leave an update of some of the things that have been done, And where I'm at with Her currently:
Carb has been rebuilt. I never did get a replacement carb or top plate, I just went ahead and straight filed the top plate down to sit flush. I also replaced a couple external pieces and obviously the hoses.
New air cleaner setup purchased. Adapter purchased and used. One outlet on back of Carb capped off, And new mini air cleaner (air inlet) installed on the 3 nipple breather instead of routing a hose to the new air cleaner setup.
3 removed black paint and cleaned up the 3 nipple breather (ECS System).
Old gas removed from tank, replaced with Shell 92 Octane.
Fabbed up a new solid line setup from the fuel pump to the carb, Added a Spectre Clear View fuel filter and Auto Meter fuel gauge as well as an in line shut off. This setup as a whole may not end up working as planned, But I have not yet been able to test it.
Today, Finishing touches were added and I was ready to fire her up for the first time in a long time.
She cranked just fine (After charging the battery) but would not kick... I primed the carb and the fired right up for a second or 2.
After troubleshooting I have come to the conclusion that the Mech Fuel Pump is Bad. I took it off, And The arm does not move up or down. I will be ordering a replacement today and have everything prepped to bolt right up.

- JDB (12.19.2015)

 

[Basket case]

been wondering how you've been. yeah real life hit's a lot of us. after three years I'm still in primer. but remember, your baby is paid for. work on it when you can. you'll get there. and don't be a stranger!

 

[Timmayy]

WOW! That is quite a journey.

 

[Aesthetikz]

12.24.15 - Quick Update:
Fuel Pump arrived in record time from eBay and Only 13.99 Shipped. Spectra Brand. It DOES come with a gasket (2 Actually. I was unsure, So I ordered one seperate~It won't be here for 4 more days... Go figure).

It stopped raining. But, Would be dark soon. So I rushed out and installed it.
I still had a direct gas feed from a bottle in the engine bay, So I just used that for the moment.

Pump works great. Fuel gets to the carb just fine at 6-7 PSI.
And...
She started up and ran for the first time in a year or so!
However,
I kept hearing air leakage/pop sounds and then she would die from a sudden loss of fuel pressure after hitting the gas.
Sadly...
The carb is still leaking from the Top Plate (Scroll up a few posts to see why).
I did file the top plate as flat as I could. And it's not leaking terribly bad, But enough to be a problem. Screws are as tight as I can get them. You can actually hear air escaping and see that it's slightly wet while idling.

It got dark and started a downpour. So, I quickly finished up for the night.

My Father suggested Black RTV. Would this hold up to the gasoline?
And Besides doing that or filing it down more. I'm kind of out of ideas to fix this.

I have 2 gaskets from 2 different kits, And they are both so thin. If I could come up with a Thick gasket I would probably be ok.
Maybe I'll try sandwiching them together. But even together, They still look way too thin.

PS: Merry Christmas!!!

- JDB

 

[Photon440]

Black RTV might not work, a lot of RTV products will soften in gasoline. But you'll be fine if you find a liquid gasket material that is fuel proof, such as:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85420-Permashield-Resistant-Dressing/dp/B007VIGCJW

 

[Aesthetikz]

Thanks.
I did some research and yea, RTV or Silicone in general does not hold up to fuel over time.
Also, When using a sealant you run the risk of it smushing inside the float and then getting nasty stuff stuck in your fuel passages.

What I'm going to try next is getting some 1/16 Cork Gasket Material and making My own gasket.
It will be ever so slightly thicker to begin with, But possibly swell a tad to fill any gaps.

A new option that popped is that I received a very kind offer for a factory carb. But, It's a Holley and Possibly a different year, So I need to see if it will bolt on fine with my ECS system.

PS: Hope everyone is having a Wonderful Christmas!

- JDB