Just picked up 1966 Belvedere II
- Thread starter Dlarge
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Dlarge
Active Member
Thanks man, the rears are 235/70/15, and fronts are 225/70/15!! I wana get the widest size i can in the rear, you know what that would be?
Dlarge
Active Member
Lol, well tore out the interior, n cleaned out all the rat piss n ****, got engine running pritty good, replaced all fluids, drove it around the block, replaced front brake lines and wheel cylinders, just got my carpet kit today! Whoohoo
goose69
Well-Known Member
That is a sweet little find.
duster731
Member
Here's a vid of the first start up open headers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDCIFr2KNLY&feature=youtube_gdata_player
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDCIFr2KNLY&feature=youtube_gdata_player
goose69
Well-Known Member
I love opened headers, until I realize my ears won't stop ringing
Dlarge
Active Member
So, Just recently fixed some rust on the floor boards, put some installation and a new carpet kit inside, got some seat covers for now! I can finally sit in the car without getting spooked by spiders! Replaced all wheel cylinders, and master cylinder, new champion radiator, and hoses! Adjusted my breaks this morning and took it for a drive, everything was good, parked it and came back 30mins to pull it into the garage and now has no spark!! What happened?? checked a few things, cap and rotor, coil, and resister not getting spark!! But i noticed when i turned the key to off position i have power to the resister and coil!! Anyone know whats up??
YY1
Well-Known Member
I think my brother has the side molding for the drivers fender and door, but not the quarter. I don't know what shipping from FL to CA would be, but I'll ask what he wants for them if you're interested.
Ron 73
Deceased, But not forgotton
Sounds pretty darn good for sitting since 97!! Good deal thanks for the video, It sounds like you have a short in the harness somewhere, could be a bad alternator, internally shorted or the ignition switch itself, a couple things to check.. Good luck and Please keep us updated, im a self admitted Member's Project's & Restoration forum junky...
duster731
Member
The altenator is good before we fired up the beast we took it down to kragen and it passed ....
also replaced the ballast resister cause SOMEONE over tighten it and broke it lol ..... I think its a short but have no idea where it has a new battery new ground cable, we sprayed down all of the electrical connections and grounds with electrical cleaner.....
also replaced the ballast resister cause SOMEONE over tighten it and broke it lol ..... I think its a short but have no idea where it has a new battery new ground cable, we sprayed down all of the electrical connections and grounds with electrical cleaner.....
Dlarge
Active Member
The car actually came with those moldings, but i don't even think i want to use them, but hey appreciate the offer!!
So thanks everyone for your help and info!! I ended up stealing my buddy's coil out of his Duster, and sure enough started right up!! Thanks guys!!
Dlarge
Active Member
ok, so I bought a new coil, ran great for a few days!! I had dropped the tank, and cleaned it out!! I then reinstalled it with new gromets and hoses! Tryed to test it out, and now it didnt start!!:angryfire: Found out once again no spark!! It ended up being a bad Distributor!! Went to the auto parts store, told them i had a 1966 Belvedere with a 383, the Distributor they gave me didnt fit,:angryfire: the shaft was to short!! Went back, told them i had a 1966 Belvedere with a 440, and yes the Distributor did fit!!:headbang: So, dose this mean i have a 440?????
Dlarge
Active Member
My trans is missig the kick down cable!! Problem is i dont know what type of trans i have, to order the right cable! How can i tell what type of trans i have??
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Trans
It's a 3 speed A-727 Torqueflite Automatic Transmission, if it's behind a Big Block... There are casting #'s on the side & bell housing areas write them down & post them here, someone can tell you if it's an early or late model 727 TF.... I wouldn't run long with out the kick down linkage or a cable type "Throttle Pressure Valve" hooked up & adjusted properly, it will burn up your transmission pretty quickly unless you have a manual valve body that don't require a "Throttle Pressure Valve" for proper functioning...
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Regulator
Just a couple of thoughts, Maybe a bad Voltage Regulator, bad Engine to Body ground, Chassis to Body ground, Battery to Body ground or even the Main bulkhead connector on the firewall every thing goes thru it to the "Amp Gauge" & back out to the engine bay, make sure all of the connections should be cleaned & put a small dab of Dielectric grease on all electronics connections before reinstalling them... The main bulkhead connector is notorious for issues in older Mopars of all makes....
Just a couple of thoughts, Maybe a bad Voltage Regulator, bad Engine to Body ground, Chassis to Body ground, Battery to Body ground or even the Main bulkhead connector on the firewall every thing goes thru it to the "Amp Gauge" & back out to the engine bay, make sure all of the connections should be cleaned & put a small dab of Dielectric grease on all electronics connections before reinstalling them... The main bulkhead connector is notorious for issues in older Mopars of all makes....
67Charger
Well-Known Member
You at least have some sort of RB: 413, 426W or 440. Find the ID pad, will either be at the front of the valley tin by #1 if it is an RB, or at an angle on the deck at the front of the D.S. head. It will have a letter and number indicating the year and displacement. C440 is a 1967 440, D440 is a 1968 440. If it ends in T as in C440T it means "Truck." All sorts of good info to be had on that pad.
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