Just saved this 68 Road Runner 4 speed from the crusher. Any way to tell by the sales order number when it was made (month)

[Wizard]

No title, No data build plate, no sales broadcast sheet. Just the vin on the dash. Car is rough and stripped of everything. It's a shell. Original color of car is that dark red (Moulin rouge?) The VIN says it is a 383 car. Pedals still in car. Any way to tell by the sales code numbers on the driver's trunk rail of when it was made. Reason is trying to figure out if it was an early made car in the year which would have the Inland shifter and later that year switched over to a Hurst shifter. Also, what would be the month date code I would need to look for in searching for a 383 motor and 4 speed to make it numbers matching? Also, the rear 8 3/4 and springs. Going to restore it back to stone stock.

Thanks,

Wizard

 

[wish4hemi]

Color is likely RR-1 Burgundy Poly or MM-1 Turbine Bronze Poly. Moulin Rouge wasn’t a thing in ‘68. Without a fender tag or build sheet, the rest of the dating stuff you’re asking about isn’t going to happen.

 

[murfman]

You can make an educated guess on the build date by the vin number. Obviously lower numbers would be earlier in the year. Find vin numbers close to yours from the same plant to narrow it down.

 

[SGTPaul]

What I have done in the past is to watch for cars like yours for sale here and ebay that have a fender tag and know the assembly date. You can then compare your vin # to theirs and get a rough idea of when the car was built. Not a perfect way but it will get you close. Good luck.

 

[Wizard]

Worman had something on one of his recent shows, I dont watch his shows but seen a clip somewhere can't remember he was explaining that if you take the numbers off the rear gutter on the deck lid you can narrow it down to when your car was built by the month. Maybe someone that watches his shows seen that episode.

Wizard

 

[YY1]

Moulin Rouge is Plum Crazy.


Does the car have shoulder belts or brackets for them?

No= early (before Jan 1, 1968)

Yes= late

Also, if it's a "23" body, it's late production.

I'm sure the shifter change probably doesn't correspond exactly with either of the above, but it's a start.

 

[Wizard]

Moulin Rouge is Plum Crazy.


Does the car have shoulder belts or brackets for them?

No= early (before Jan 1, 1968)

Yes= late

Also, if it's a "23" body, it's late production.

I'm sure the shifter change probably doesn't correspond exactly with either of the above, but it's a start.

I will check on this. Good info thanks. Are u measuring 23 feet from bumper tip to tip front to rear?

 

[YY1]

A 23 body is a hardtop.

All early production 68 RR's were "21" body coupes.

VIN RM21 vs RM23.

 

[Wizard]

A 23 body is a hardtop.

All early production 68 RR's were "21" body coupes.

VIN RM21 vs RM23.

The VIN says it's a coupe. I believe the factory color to my car is Burgundy Poly.

 

[barbee6043]

Glad you saved it, but it will NEVERbe numbers matching anything. Build it bak into car if you want to and can.

 

[YY1]

Well, if nothing else you got $400 of clutch pedals and $200 of floor shift steering column out of the deal.

 

[maxwedgechar]

The last 6 digits of Mopar VINs generally start at 100001 so you can sometimes figure out how close to the beginning or end you are. I had a weirdly optioned '63 Savoy sedan that was #182 off the line in Newark.

 

[hunt2elk]

Moulin Rouge is Plum Crazy.

Moulin Rouge is the same as Panther Pink, not Plum Crazy purple.

 

[Chargerjase]

Correct, but no Panther Pink or Plum Crazy Purple in 68. My guess is burgundy.

 

[YY1]

Moulin Rouge is the same as Panther Pink, not Plum Crazy purple.

Sorry.

Early morning synaptic misfire.

In Violet was Plum Cray.

 

[WileE]

OK, offering my view here. Your intentions would be an exercise in futility. I admire and commend you for "bringing this car back to life". But starting with a shell, std 383 car, no tags/doc's ? I'd do a resto-mod on this car. Drivetrain, suspension, A/C, but maintaining a stock "look" on both outside and inside. Modern hemi with OD, modern tubular suspension, vintage A/C, etc. Whether keeping the car for enjoyment, or looking at your return for the dollar when selling, this would be the way to go. Just my take. Whatever you do, kudos to you and good luck and fun doing the car !

 

[440 PHIXX]

What are the first 3 digits in the sequence number of the VIN. I have 3 68’s here and can give you an approximation of the date.

 

[440 PHIXX]

OK, offering my view here. Your intentions would be an exercise in futility. I admire and commend you for "bringing this car back to life". But starting with a shell, std 383 car, no tags/doc's ? I'd do a resto-mod on this car. Drivetrain, suspension, A/C, but maintaining a stock "look" on both outside and inside. Modern hemi with OD, modern tubular suspension, vintage A/C, etc. Whether keeping the car for enjoyment, or looking at your return for the dollar when selling, this would be the way to go. Just my take. Whatever you do, kudos to you and good luck and fun doing the car !

As long as he doesn’t mind sinking $100k into it.

 

[beanhead]

My '68 is a St.Louis car, SPD was January 18. "Jan 4 1968" stamped on the back of the door panels. #203343 on the VIN. As far as an engine number if you can narrow down your build date any block cast within a few weeks or so would be "more correct". Though some got blocks cast months before the car was built...maybe not typical but it did happen for various reasons.

 

[4406bbl]

OK, offering my view here. Your intentions would be an exercise in futility. I admire and commend you for "bringing this car back to life". But starting with a shell, std 383 car, no tags/doc's ? I'd do a resto-mod on this car. Drivetrain, suspension, A/C, but maintaining a stock "look" on both outside and inside. Modern hemi with OD, modern tubular suspension, vintage A/C, etc. Whether keeping the car for enjoyment, or looking at your return for the dollar when selling, this would be the way to go. Just my take. Whatever you do, kudos to you and good luck and fun doing the car !

Agree on this. Nobody will buy a restored 383 roadrunner without at least a fender tag in the mopar world. A 6.4 hemi, 5-speed swap with a/c will bring back about double your investment at sale time. Figure about 15 grand to do it If you ever have you sell it you will have 10 times the buyers, and you will love driving it anywhere. It also makes a car way more wife friendly if you have, or plan to have that issue. Finding a 383, trans, rebuilding it, and all the original parts for a resto will be at least half that.