If I followed your reference points, rod travels about 2-inches. It just about max's the kick down lever on the trans. Had adjusted that to stop btw 1/8" or so before it locks the lever full back at WOT.
Kickdown fitting 64 Sport Fury 426
- Thread starter dmoore
- Start date
Nate S
Well-Known Member
Mine moves 1-1/8 from idle to WOT. I have it almost bottomed out at WOT. This means when I’m coming off idle the kickdown is at the same point you’re at when halfway into it. That’s where I started before drilling a hole closer to the throttle shaft. By doing that the throw is shorter and the kickdown is always more compressed. That’s actually close to factory. The aftermarket carbs mostly have the attachment hole farther from the pivot so you get less compression of the kickdown linkage.
Another thing of interest is that I don’t think the pedal can pull the cable that far. You might not even be hitting WOT. Might want to confirm.
Last edited:
Yes, exactly like my home-made 28tpi extension. It is very easy to adjust, and seems to need little adjustment for big change in shift points. I now have part-throttle kick down too.
PS: my linkage now has no left-right restraint. I see yours runs in a U channel. Is that original MOPAR, or Edelbrock?
This is on an early B cable 727 trans?
Thanks much. I'll double check the throttle cable travel. On the rod travel, I'm following your logic, but could I impose on you to send a photo of what you did?
Nate S
Well-Known Member
Away for the weekend at the moment but when I’m home I’ll document well for you.
What Nate S has done and what you guys are confirming with this with early B 727 kick down action sounds interesting. I've not come across this in the study-up I've done and looking forward to learning more about this. The trans action is the same when I had the AFB on and now with the Edelbrock.
Yep stock
Ok, So there's the diff...I recently installed an Edelbrock Performer & their AVS2 carb. not only is the throttle & kick down attaching points higher but the throttle shaft/linkage is wider as well. Look at my last pic..see how the throttle and kick down want to go towards the drivers valve cover? It's not a problem..they both work fine, no binding.
Re-looking at Nate's post as he described in post #14, and his later comments, if I follow, he lowered the rod connection point closer to the T-shaft and as a result created less rod travel distance or reducing the pivot throw, again if I follow along, drilling a new location. Anyway, I find this really interesting reading the changes this makes and will explore this. I hope to join you guys on the success. Thanks
Nate S
Well-Known Member
Yeah, you’ve got it. Doesn’t move as far, ends in the same place. Starts more compressed. Start point is pretty much where you can feel the spring engage in the tranny. Total throw is 1-1/8. Average acceleration 1-2 shift at 20, 2-3 at 30+.
lol - hope you're finding this entertaining!
Hope to join you're perfect shift club!
- Local time
- 10:48 PM
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2010
- Messages
- 30,991
- Reaction score
- 55,309
- Location
- Hanover, Pennslyvania
The throttle lever on the trans has some free travel from the furthest foward location to when you start to feel some resistance in the rearward movement. When the lever is starting to have some resistance is where the pressure will begin to have a bearing on the shift points.
What I do is disconnect the kickdown rod at the carburetor, hold the carburetor wide open and push the kickdown rod back as far as it would go, then compare the location of the two. Make the adjustment so the rod will line up with the carburetor linkage hole. Take it for a test drive and note where you shift points are when driving normally. If it shifts too soon from 1st to 2nd you'll need to lengthen the rod, too late shorten the rod. It only takes about a 1/8" of adjustment to make a big difference once you get in the "zone". That's where the rod has enough pressure on it to start making the shift points work. (727-8 transmission)
What I do is disconnect the kickdown rod at the carburetor, hold the carburetor wide open and push the kickdown rod back as far as it would go, then compare the location of the two. Make the adjustment so the rod will line up with the carburetor linkage hole. Take it for a test drive and note where you shift points are when driving normally. If it shifts too soon from 1st to 2nd you'll need to lengthen the rod, too late shorten the rod. It only takes about a 1/8" of adjustment to make a big difference once you get in the "zone". That's where the rod has enough pressure on it to start making the shift points work. (727-8 transmission)
Last edited:
Similar threads
