Kickdown fitting 64 Sport Fury 426

[6t4polara]

Went after market for linkage using a RPM and holly on my V 42.

 

[Gregg DeGeorge]

Mine moves 1-1/8 from idle to WOT. I have it almost bottomed out at WOT. This means when I’m coming off idle the kickdown is at the same point you’re at when halfway into it. That’s where I started before drilling a hole closer to the throttle shaft. By doing that the throw is shorter and the kickdown is always more compressed. That’s actually close to factory. The aftermarket carbs mostly have the attachment hole farther from the pivot so you get less compression of the kickdown linkage.

Another thing of interest is that I don’t think the pedal can pull the cable that far. You might not even be hitting WOT. Might want to confirm.

Thanks again still working on shift points

 

[Red63440]

The shift points on my 64 are extremely quick with 1 to 2 hitting at 8 to 10 mph and 3rd at about 15. The car does have a shift kit and 3:55 gears so I am always waiting for another gear to kick in. The engine is a 361 with an Edelbrock Performer intake with a 1406 600CFM Edelbrock 4 barrel. My kick down rod is original to the 2 barrel that came with the car and so far the biggest problem I have is that the rod wants to come out of the U shaped bracket at WO throttle which as I have learned here may be due to incorrect adjustment. Nate, you spoke of a difference between the 361 and 383 kick down rods, could you please explain the difference? I am using the stock linkage after a small modification due to the intake and think if I screw the shaft in it may be be less likely to lift out of the U bracket.

 

[Nate S]

I’m not sure about a two barrel / four barrel difference for the rod. I am sure about a 426 / 383 difference. The shorter one can be extended with a welder or some threaded rod and long nut.

The larger points are: make sure the kickdown is very near bottomed out when the throttle is wide open. Put a mark on the rod at the fork bracket with it at that point (WOT). Let it back to idle position and measure From the bracket to the mark. It should be 1-1/8” if it’s much longer you should re-mount the rod to a point closer to the throttle shaft to decrease throw.

 

[khryslerkid]

Red this is my original 361 from the 1962 Polara with factory 4bbl. You can see the added piece that they placed on the "U" shape in the bracket. Looks like it might have been an after thought or even a recall quick fix. I've seen several others just like it. Also you can see that the bracket is level or square with the engine, not at an angle.

Hope this helps.

 

[Red63440]

Mine is sitting at an angle because its on an aluminum intake that isn't flat like the factory one. I think its coming out because its not adjusted correctly. Nate had sent me one that he had fabricated but when I sat his and my factory one side by side they were almost identical in shape so I just used mine.

 

[dmoore]

Well it's been almost a full year since the last post on this topic. Since that time I have returned completely stock with original intake and 3611 AFB.

 

[Nate S]

Well it's been almost a full year since the last post on this topic. Since that time I have returned completely stock with original intake and 3611 AFB.

View attachment 1158457

How is it? Just curious. I have a Holley 3310-1 and CH4B on mine with the factory intake and 3644 (identical to 3611 but was used on 413s) sitting on a shelf. Kinda wonder what the performance hit is like.

 

[dmoore]

Lets just say I sacrificed originality for performance. Very noticable diff. But........my original air cleaner fits perfect, my carb/kickdown linkage fits perfect, no hot wire running to electric choke stat etc. Just shows the potential of this severly choked down engine. I decided not to make THIS car something it's not. I'll save that for the next one.

 

[Nate S]

Thanks! I’m not really in it to go warp 4 but I like it similar-ish to a stock 440 magnum. Sounds like I’ll leave the original stuff on the shelf for now.

 

[dmoore]

The potential is there of course...you just need to change a lot to unleash it. It loved that intake and carb but without better flowing exhaust manifolds its a dead end.

 

[Nate S]

The potential is there of course...you just need to change a lot to unleash it. It loved that intake and carb but without better flowing exhaust manifolds its a dead end.

Headers work wonders. Don’t feel too bad about the ‘64 manifolds vs the later magnum. Here’s an A - B dyno test between the two, 4HP! And -1 ft-lb! They both aren’t great.
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=104749.0

 

[dmoore]

There ya go...A well tuned set of headers can't be beat.

 

[cbatherton]

Has anyone tried the Lokar kickdown cable? Would it work instead of the original rod? I am trying to work this problem out and just haven't given up on running the RPM performer intake yet lol

 

[EARLY B]

Has anyone tried the Lokar kickdown cable? Would it work instead of the original rod? I am trying to work this problem out and just haven't given up on running the RPM performer intake yet lol

If you are running the one piece rod and it is too short try redrilling the hole in the end of lever at the trans to make it a 1/2" shorter. this will reduce the travel need to move the rod at the carb, and will gain you some length in the adjustment.