LemonWedge 727 build

[LemonWedge]

Figured I’d chronicle this build here. Hopefully a good opportunity to discuss what goes into a decent 727 build, share and learn some tips, and discuss others builds as well. I could also probably use some help here & there.

I’ve been a footbrake guy for years. And the 727 in the yellow car has long been pretty stock with just good quality clutches, a Turbo-Action manual valve body, and a Dynamic 9-1/2” converter up front. It also has a TCS bolt-in Sprag. This year I decided to take the plunge and invest in a brake. Along with that, we’re installing some good parts to help it survive. Among the changes being made:

- CRT reverse pattern transbrake valvebody.
- CRT billet Alum. L/R servo piston.
- Late model pump stator with oil-bath modification.
- Blocking rod in the accumulator.
- A&A Ultimate Steel 5-clutch drum w/ 12-spring retainer.
- A&A Steel rollerized front planetary.
- Goering Heavy Duty Belleville spring.
- Relocated case vent.

Additionally, the existing dynamic 9-1/2” Converter that was built specifically for the old 451, was sent out to A-1 Converters (local to me) for a full re-assessment and rebuild specific to the new 470 combo.

My right thumb will also now be getting familiar with a Cramsey Innovations Overthrow Button. This unit offers the maximum legal throw length, and Cramsey claims it can delay the leave by as much as .050; fully adjustable with shims.

Some evidence of the fun over here….

 

[LemonWedge]

More good stuff……

 

[Aron Gleason]

That should be a solid transmission for many years.

 

[GTX JOHN]

Do you still have an 8 3/4 as that will become
an issue at your weight and HP level?

 

[LemonWedge]

Do you still have an 8 3/4 as that will become
an issue at your weight and HP level?

Sold my 8-3/4 stuff to you, John…. LOL.

It’s got a Dana with 35-spline spool. I think I’m good.

 

[RemCharger]

 

[dvw]

It'll be good. With the vent in that location run a push lock tube up to a small canister on the firewall. That way any fluid slung from rotating parts will return to the pan.
Doug

 

[LemonWedge]

It'll be good. With the vent in that location run a push lock tube up to a small canister on the firewall. That way any fluid slung from rotating parts will return to the pan.
Doug

I thought this might be needed. It’s tucked in behind the overrunning clutch race, but you think it’ll still see a good amount fluid, huh Doug? Do you use pneumatic style pushlock fittings, or just an aluminum AN style fitting with a barbed push-on rubber hose? In either case, you tap the case for that fitting, correct?

Also, I know you were comfortable with the .090 clearance I had in the front clutch pack. But since I was waiting on some other parts anyway, I ordered a thicker snap-ring; it’s now measuring .078-ish.

 

[GTX JOHN]

We always vent the case in that location. We have
never seen a significant fluid leak
out of it.
I have never thought to put a canister
on it but it is good idea especially if you every
overfill the transmission a couple quarts.

 

[dvw]

I thought this might be needed. It’s tucked in behind the overrunning clutch race, but you think it’ll still see a good amount fluid, huh Doug? Do you use pneumatic style pushlock fittings, or just an aluminum AN style fitting with a barbed push-on rubber hose? In either case, you tap the case for that fitting, correct?

Also, I know you were comfortable with the .090 clearance I had in the front clutch pack. But since I was waiting on some other parts anyway, I ordered a thicker snap-ring; it’s now measuring .078-ish.

I've had others that had issues with slosh depending on location. either way with a puke can your covered. Mine is way back just above the fliuid return posrt from the cooler. I've been using brass/nylon push lock fittings with clear hose for years.
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/auto/9.ht
Three other things do. Hole saw the bottom of the bellhousing. Then connect the holes with a cut to make a clean conveter bolt access. Use a flat end burr and trim the case at the lower 2 mounting holes. Run a 3/8" drill thru. Then you can use small head or allen bolts from the case side to the block. Comes in handy when header tubes are in the way. Lastly cut the dipstich tube mounting bracket off. Fab a new bracket that uses the verticlal hole in the fixture mounting boss on the bell housing. Just slide the tube into the trans and rotate to your liking. Weld the tab to the tube. Super easy tube removal with shields and headers.
Doug

 

[GTX JOHN]

Sold my 8-3/4 stuff to you, John…. LOL.

It’s got a Dana with 35-spline spool. I think I’m good.

Sorry, you sold me a 3rd member, but I did not know if you had changed the
8 3/4 Housing or just changed gear ratio.

 

[LemonWedge]

I've had others that had issues with slosh depending on location. either way with a puke can your covered. Mine is way back just above the fliuid return posrt from the cooler. I've been using brass/nylon push lock fittings with clear hose for years.
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/auto/9.ht
Three other things do. Hole saw the bottom of the bellhousing. Then connect the holes with a cut to make a clean conveter bolt access. Use a flat end burr and trim the case at the lower 2 mounting holes. Run a 3/8" drill thru. Then you can use small head or allen bolts from the case side to the block. Comes in handy when header tubes are in the way. Lastly cut the dipstich tube mounting bracket off. Fab a new bracket that uses the verticlal hole in the fixture mounting boss on the bell housing. Just slide the tube into the trans and rotate to your liking. Weld the tab to the tube. Super easy tube removal with shields and headers.
Doug

View attachment 1807604

View attachment 1807605

View attachment 1807606

I may have to call you on these. The first one…. Your cut looks great. Just not sure I’ve ever had any problem getting to the converter bolts as it sits now. Racking my brain to imagine how the cut shown would help. Do you have a pic of it installed that could help complete the picture?
The 2nd tip…. I see it perhaps being helpful; although my memory seems to be telling me that those two lower bolts are currently the easiest ones to work with…. Good access. I currently run Hooker Comps (1-7/8” / 3” - holdovers from the streetcar days). Someday it will get a set of 2” / 3-1/2 headers. Do you have a nut welded onto the block boss? Or just using a nut & washer there?
The last one is definitely going to happen. That mount and the dipstick tube in general NEVER fails to frustrate me.

Thanks for the tips Doug. Much appreciated!!

 

[dvw]

The pan on mine kicks back beyond the rear face of the block. The cut is back furthan needed for access. The lower bolts just have nuts. Depending on the style of headers it can really help. My small block car needs the header bolts out and dropped to access the lower bolts.
Doug

 

[LemonWedge]

makes a lot more sense to me now, Doug. My car utilizes a much more mundane center-sump oil pan, that offers much better access to the stock bell housing opening at the converter.

Thanks again!