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Let's talk about Hydraulic Rollers for a 440 and maybe a Change for my Engine combo

70ChargerRT

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I thought I knew all I needed to know about HR,s for a 440 but obviously I didn't. I didn't realize the problems of HR,s if the lifter bores on the bottom are worn. I know of the fix with shims. My machinist is going to check my lifter bores this week and hopefully they are good. If they are good is there any other problems I may have by using them? I'm so up in there air right now because I've had several builders from the Mopar community telling me I should have went solid flat tappet and save my money but here's the problem. I've already bought my parts. Yeah I've called everyone and they said return them and we'll swap you out or give you your money back but I really like the idea of running the HR,s if my lifter bores aren't wore out. I know some of you browse the same forums but it seems they are also a lot of knowledgeable guys on here also that don't use the other forums. This is the parts I have already bought and my engine combo. I'm not going to change my bottom end but may change the top end if I like the recommendations better. It's a 68 block bored 40 over. The crank is turned with ARP rod bolts. I'm running light weight forged racetec pistons with a final CR of 10.7:1. The block has been decked and be running Zero deck height. I'm using TF 240 heads with spring for HR,s. I'm also using TF HR lifters. TF claims their lifter don't have the bleed off like some others do like comp. I called comp and they recommend not go past 6200 RPM. TF says theirs is good to 6500 RPM but have taken them to 7,000 RPM many times on their 440 test mule and they are holding up good. For a cam I've got the comp XR 286 HR and the intake is a performer RPM look alike (Mopar Performance) I'm thinking about sending it back for a street dominator. May could use added Hood clearance on my Charger and top it off with a 850 DP of some type. Will get the pushrods custom made. I'm also using a T-56 Magum for my tranny. It's been a major PITA getting my car back together but putting this engine combo together has been the toughest. Id just like to have piece of mind after I get this motor together but it seems like no matter route I decide to do their is a downfall to both the HR setup or Flat tappet. Any help is much appreciated.
 
I would run a solid roller, hydraulics tend to bend push rods and are very large and cumbersome. Second issue is getting rollers that will lube the needles properly. Get a set of Bushing rollers from Isky. Avoid needle rollers. Sure everyone uses them but 5their a pain in the ***. Also remember the lifter must not expose the lifter bore to too much oil band or your going to loose all your oil pressure. I beleve Crane orisky are the only ones with this feature and not requiring bronze bushing
 
I would run a solid roller, hydraulics tend to bend push rods and are very large and cumbersome. Second issue is getting rollers that will lube the needles properly. Get a set of Bushing rollers from Isky. Avoid needle rollers. Sure everyone uses them but 5their a pain in the ***. Also remember the lifter must not expose the lifter bore to too much oil band or your going to loose all your oil pressure. I beleve Crane orisky are the only ones with this feature and not requiring bronze bushing
I should have mentioned this is a street build only. I may never take it to the track and in saying that If it was a serious street/strip car I would highly consider a solid roller. I plan on putting a lot miles on this build and taking long vacation drives with it.
 
Ok so I would still run a solid roller vs a hydraulic. Keep lift mild and your springs qwill last a long time. Fitting hydraulics in an old block is a real head ache. They weight a lot and are likly to cause bent push rods.
 
Ok so I would still run a solid roller vs a hydraulic. Keep lift mild and your springs qwill last a long time. Fitting hydraulics in an old block is a real head ache. They weight a lot and are likly to cause bent push rods.
Why and how?
 
I've seen all this before. You want to run a hydraulic roller. So, I think you should run a hydraulic roller.

Never mind that the quality of solid roller lifters, valve train parts and rocker arms to support them will last for years without fiddling with them.

You should have a hydraulic roller.
 
I will add to this that you might give some thought to using components (cam, lifters, springs, retainers, locks) from one manufacturer. Mixing brands may become a problem if something goes wrong. Everyone wants to blame the other guy's parts if there's a problem. Just food for thought...
 
I don't have any experience with hydraulic rollers but I did put a solid roller in my 440 it's been aT least 6 or 7 years now with no issues. I probably put 7000 miles on it so far and would drive it any distance. I used to drive 180 miles each way to the track, run it 6 or 7 times tuning the carb and get home at 4 am. I drive mostly on the street, I have driven it 4 hours to go to Gardner State park camping. So what I'm saying is you don't have to check valve lash every weekend or anything like that. I'm also running a mild custom comp cams cam and lifters. Good luck on your project.
 
Keep asking on all the forums & you will eventually get the answer YOU want to hear.
you want a hydro roller so run one.

For me no hydro in a BB mopar.
 
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Does it sound like I want to run one of its going to give me problems? I would like have some more input from people that actually have some experience in running these.
 
Bob Challenger 340,Dwayne PRH,Iq52, Firefighter3931,BSB67, are some of the most experienced on Mopars that you can find .
 
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Bob Challenger 340,Dwayne PRH,Iq52, Firefighter3931,BSB67, are some of the most experienced on Mopars that you can find .
I just don't want to talk to the builders I would also like to hear from the guys who are actually running these. I took Bobs advice and I'm going to do exactly what he said. If the bores are wore out I'm going solid flat tappet. Still figuring out if I want to run the rpm performer intake or a street dominator.
 
i have a Lunati voodoo hydraulic roller in my 440, i have the huges engines lifters too,. i called them to see if i needed the hi rev lifters because my cam is 244 @ .50 but they said no i bought the right ones. have not run the engine yet because ive got another project. that car has a 5.0 ford with a Lunati hydraulic roller as well, but 3 sizes smaller, it runs awesome.

im not worried about the possible mechanical problems as much as i am the loss in power that the bigger rollers have VS the solid roller cams over 6k rpms.

if i switch this one out, that will be the reason.
 
I put a Lunati VooDoo solid roller cam in my 440 six pack RR, and it works great! I can't see any reason for picking a Hyd Roller over a solid. They are quite reliable, have less parts since there is no lifter plunger, and easier to adjust since you have a solid lifter. Mine actually has a surge in power above 5000 RPM, hydraulics can become unstable above 5000.
 
I put a Lunati VooDoo solid roller cam in my 440 six pack RR, and it works great! I can't see any reason for picking a Hyd Roller over a solid. They are quite reliable, have less parts since there is no lifter plunger, and easier to adjust since you have a solid lifter. Mine actually has a surge in power above 5000 RPM, hydraulics can become unstable above 5000.
Aren't solid Rollers still hard on valvetrain parts and wouldn't I have to change my springs to the stiffer ones? Where is the proof that hydraulic Rollers become unstable over 5,000?
 
I'll post a link later today, go to youtube and look in the Engine Masters page and search for it.
 
I'm running the TF top end kit that comes with a hydro cam, everything but the intake since the single plane didn't fit underneath my hood. I have not seen ANY issues as of yet. Then again I only have about 200 miles on a new build. I didn't have to bush my lifter bores either.
 
I'm running the TF top end kit that comes with a hydro cam, everything but the intake since the single plane didn't fit underneath my hood. I have not seen ANY issues as of yet. Then again I only have about 200 miles on a new build. I didn't have to bush my lifter bores either.
What kind of intake did you run?
 
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