J I G S A W runs!
Woooooo!
It was difficult to get it to start. The carburetor and distributor were not new. This low deck B series distributor is electronic and the only one that I have. I did test it by connecting the wire plug and spinning the shaft with the distributor out of the engine. It did send spark to the plugs.
The carburetor though....It
looks fine but it occurred to me that THIS one was on my 75 Power Wagon and pulled off because it wouldn't idle.
I was trying to do a "first fire" on an engine with a few unknown parts.
Lucky for me, the cam and lifters are used but the lifters were put back in the same places. Some extended cranking wasn't going to wipe the cam.
I'd get a backfire through the carburetor or the tailpipes. It had me confused. I verified TDC and #1 firing order and stabbed the distributor. I cranked it to advance some or retard some....Nothing was working.
THEN I looked at the distributor cap. I had the firing order WRONG. I had it clockwise like a A-LA -Magnum series, not Counterclockwise for the B/RB series. I don't think that I have made this mistake in several years, if ever.
Boom...It started right up and blew a backfire and black smoke through the exhaust! It wouldn't stay running though.
It was then that I remembered that this carburetor was the one that I had shelved a few years ago.
I grabbed a Carter 4 barrel that a FBBO member sent me a couple of years ago. I bolted it on and ran a temporary fuel line just to get it to start and run. The Carter has no provision to attach the transmission kickdown button that is needed for the cable kickdown setup.
It started up and ran great! It idles smoother than I expected and it runs quieter too. The exhaust is quiet but does cackle a bit under throttle. No valvetrain noise, no exhaust leaks but....Whoa....The valve covers were pissing oil! They are cast aluminum and the gaskets are Moroso blue silicone with steel cores. The valve cover gasket rails are flat and straight. I suspect that I just didn't have the bolts tight enough.
I pulled each valve cover and cleaned the oil film from the gaskets, then bolted them back down. The lower-outer corners have studs but the holes in the valve covers do allow some movement. I did like I do with the MP VCs in Ginger....Hold the valve covers UP close to the intake while tightening the bolts. This aligns the gasket rails so the bottom edges sit evenly on the heads.
I'll know tomorrow if the oil leaks are gone.
I'm happy that it runs though!