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Jeez, I had no idea that you lived in Haiti? ! 
Lookie what $5000 buys you....
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I was going to send money, then realized, they're not hurricane victims........LOL
Even Chargers from California are not completely immune from rust. I had to replace the center of the trunk floor pan, and one small spot on the drivers side floor pan on my 70 Charger R / T 440 Sixpack car.
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That center section of the trunk floor looks like what I have planned.
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Just messing around a bit. I bent and dollied the lower core support some.
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The RH frame rail has a buckle in it about 10" forward of the firewall near the cutout in the fender apron used to reach the rear alignment cams. Hard to show in a picture. The K member may be bent too, the forward RH bolt is missing and looking up, the holes do not line up.
I have a spare K member.
I am considering getting a rudimentary brake system working so it will be easier to transport. If I can find a frame shop willing to straighten it, the ability to stop it will be appreciated, I'm sure. Yesterday the prior owner said the car did have an 8 3/4" axle in it originally but there is a 8 1/4" one in there now with a 2.71 tag on it. For an additional $200, he gave me a 3.55 Clutch Sure Grip center section. Score!
I have a spare K member.
I am considering getting a rudimentary brake system working so it will be easier to transport. If I can find a frame shop willing to straighten it, the ability to stop it will be appreciated, I'm sure. Yesterday the prior owner said the car did have an 8 3/4" axle in it originally but there is a 8 1/4" one in there now with a 2.71 tag on it. For an additional $200, he gave me a 3.55 Clutch Sure Grip center section. Score!
Drag it to Missouri, I'll help and after awhile you'll want to move here. Fabricating and thinking outside of the box is what I love to do. Never built an engine or transmission, but everything else is fair game. I don't enjoy making furniture or advertising exhibits for trade shows anymore, metal is a nice change of pace.
Ah well....think of it this way Greg.....at least you have a Dodge Charger, and you are sharing pictures of it. 
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I have TWO of them....Some poor souls have yet to even own ONE !
Ah well....think of it this way Greg.....at least you have a Dodge Charger, and you are sharing pictures of it.
He is helping out the averages.
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just put a rail in it...... you can do it in a day
bolt an unphucked K frame to the good side and go from there....... it will practically put itself together
coronet68mx
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I have a junkyard fresh K member in the backyard.
It isn't just the frame rail that is bent. The cowl is too. I figure that I need to pull the apron and rail out to drag the cowl back into shape.
I could probably find a body and frame shop to do it but I'm thinking of trying some redneck type frame stretching myself.
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it ain't rocket science, that's for sure....... make sure the hinge pillar isn't pushed back, and the door fits without the upper hinge being "maxed out" on it's adjustment; and the glass fits parallel with the post.
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Both doors close just fine. The Drivers door is real close to the quarter though. Compared to my other car, the door needs to slide forward by 1/4"
It is a real nice thing to have an unmolested car to measure from.
It is a real nice thing to have an unmolested car to measure from.
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I may be over-thinking it. It wouldn't be the first time. EACH time before I embark on a new task, I ask questions, do research, make lists....It is the unknown that has me thinking that is a difficult job.
This will be my first structural replacement job. I've done floor pans, quarter skins, roof skins and other stuff but the structural members were not disturbed. What concerns me is being off a little here, a little there and then none of the sheet metal lines up and gaps right.
I have a FSM that shows many measurements but I'd expect to see more. For instance, the RH rail is currently compressed a bit rearward. It can be pulled forward but even when it measures right, it could be further off the floor than the other side if it is still bent upward. Where is the reference measurement for that? The fender to rocker gap may be a guide as to the rail being close to "spec" but these fenders do flex a lot.
I can do criss cross measurements to get the front square. It could be slightly corkscrewed though.
This is why when I see guys post pictures of their cars with the entire rear of the car missing behind the C pillars, I wonder how the heck they get it all back together with good panel gaps and proper fitment.
This will be my first structural replacement job. I've done floor pans, quarter skins, roof skins and other stuff but the structural members were not disturbed. What concerns me is being off a little here, a little there and then none of the sheet metal lines up and gaps right.
I have a FSM that shows many measurements but I'd expect to see more. For instance, the RH rail is currently compressed a bit rearward. It can be pulled forward but even when it measures right, it could be further off the floor than the other side if it is still bent upward. Where is the reference measurement for that? The fender to rocker gap may be a guide as to the rail being close to "spec" but these fenders do flex a lot.
I can do criss cross measurements to get the front square. It could be slightly corkscrewed though.
This is why when I see guys post pictures of their cars with the entire rear of the car missing behind the C pillars, I wonder how the heck they get it all back together with good panel gaps and proper fitment.
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I cut that trunk floor section out of a Charger parts car in the early eighties,before reproduction trunk floor pans were made. Soon after that they became available,so I kept it in my loft and used the reproduction pieces,because most Chargers I restored needed the full trunk floor pan. Then this California Charger R/T came along that only needed the center section,and that old center section I had in the loft was a near perfect fit for this car.
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I was thinking of the furthest forward seam...to put it over the shock crossmember but I might as well put the seam just past where the rust ends.
That's what I did,and I was able to retain the original spot welds on the frame rails. I have the welds all ground down,so once I blend the seams it will look like it was never touched.
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