Yikes! that's never a fun time. Glad there was no damage to the car.
There was/is a problem with this in the trailer industry with some manufacturers. All trailers, flatbed, garden, cargo, cattle/horse, R.V.'s, etc. The steps to ensure they hold torque is to:
1. Make sure the hub face and back of the wheel is clean. NO rust, dirt, grease or paint of any kind on the contact surface of the hub or wheel.
2. A couple drops of light oil on each stud, install the wheel, torque to 90 Ft. lbs using a "Star Pattern" tightening sequence. Always re-touque the first and second nut in the series.
3. Drive the car a short distance, 5-10 miles. Make sure you make some left and right turns as you normally would.
4. Re torque at 100 ft.lbs. using the "Star Pattern" and hitting #1 and #2 nuts again in the series.
5. Put about 25-50 miles on the car. Recheck at 100 Ft. Lbs. You should have no torque loss. If you do, re torque and repeat step 4 and 5.
6. After the 3rd torque your wheel should be "seated". if you still have torque loss, your wheels are flexing and should be replaced. It does happen.
We use this basic process at work and I haven't had a torque failure wheel loss in 8 years after Hundreds of thousands of trailers.
You didn't say, Steel or Mags? Mags generally hold torque better because they don't flex (much at all) at the clamp point. Stock steel wheels will and do flex and should. that's what holds the torque. I actually crushed the center on one on my stock '64 and had to replace it. Now I run Centerlines because after the power upgrades, the steelies wouldn't have been safe.
Lastly, (i'm sure you do) use a torque wrench. I can't tell you how many times I've caught transport drivers in our ship yard reefing on lugs with a 4' breaker bar. Needless to say they get the long version lecture whether they like it or not.
ops::angryfire::angryfire: I guess you learn from your mistakes thank god I was only going @ 20 mph.
