MAD Elecrical Ammeter Bypass VS Parallel Charging Wiring

[Nacho-RT74]

regulator and alternator kind doesn't have any effect on the bypass or the parallel mod. Works the same

 

[sleepar]

Here is what I did on my 63. At the firewall bulkhead the 2 hot wires of one from the alt output and the other is the hot feed from the battery both bolt to the terminal sticking thru the firewall. They bolt up with a 5/16 head bolt. I jumped across that with a 10 gauge wire to bypass my ammeter as I bolted on the jumper wire at the firewall terminals. Then I added a voltmeter to moniter my charging system since the ammeter wont work any more and you can hook the voltmeter to a key on 12 volt source. In the trunk you can see in this pic the smaller 10 gauge red wire as thats my hot feed to the cars main power source as it goes thru the cutout switch to kill everything when the rod is pushed as the track says you need it with a trunk mounted battery. But coming off the battery cable I have a fuse holder bolted to the pos battery cable on the battery that takes a 70 amp fuse and feeds the smaller 10 gauge red wire as power goes thru the fuse that takes the place of the stock fuseable link and that red wire goes up thru the car to the starter relay on the firewall and feeds everything in the car. This has been working good for me since I put the car on the road in 2006. Ron

I'm doing the same basics but the battery up front and my stereo amplifiers in the back... every accessory has a load rating and if I supply more than it needs at peak surge everything is happier and should last longer... but I have patience and time on my side... and have studied hard on the wireing and have an understanding better than before... wether it's pusher fans and electric pumps for ET's Or my tape collection blasting out the sounds it's a lot to think about.... but the old original wire and contacts are for sure past their usefulness... and mine look like New but there not up for the job.