Maximize Camber or Caster

[JedIEG]

I am trying to do an at home allignment while the world is on fire and I can't go to a shop to get it done professionally. Ride height is set how I want it. I have the UCA adjuster all the way in on the rear and in the middle on the front yielding
Driver side
-1.2 camber, 1.2 caster (calculate using 20°turn in/out camber measurements)
Passenger side
-1.3 camber, 2.1 caster

Turning the driver front side adjuster all the way out I get
Driver side
-0.2 camber, 2.4 caster

My target is -0.75 camber and 2.5 or more caster.
Should I try to maximize caster over camber or vice versa?
Should I maximize one side over the other or sacrifice one being close to the target to get them equal?

FYIs.
I am using an angle finder app on my tablet set against the rim of the center cap on my rallye wheels to measure angles so I know it's not to most accurate way in the world but is what I got.
Also Considering moog offset bushings or the nuclear option of fully adjustable UCA in the future if I can't get close to the target.

 

[#41]

You might not be able to get 2.5 caster with stock stuff. It's also unlikely the max caster you can get will be = left to right. In any case for a street car, you will want them both to have the same amount of caster. It's just a matter of playing with it until you can get the most caster you can with the camber you want.

 

[dan juhasz]

Just my experience playing with changing alignment specs for old cars. I fooled around with magnum force uca's and wanted to dial in more caster for a better tracking car. I was never concerned with more negative camber as this is a street car, not autocrossing or anything like that. While I had no difficultly dialing in more positive caster and while it did track straighter (not as much wander or picking up grooves etc) what I didn't like was you had to put in more effort to turn the vehicle from straight. I didn't expect it to be so noticeable, and this was at around 3 degrees positive. So I started to keep dialing it out and re aligning ( I have a shop with a Hunter aligner). Maybe it was the uca's but I never liked it. I ended up putting the factory uca's back in and set it close to stock specs. I think when we watch all the tv shows and these guys roll a complete re designed frame under these old cars it is done for a good reason. It is the best way to get all around good results. By just throwing one or several modern updated components on an old chassis is a compromise at best, just my opinion. So my suggestion would be to keep your stock uca's, replace the bushings with an offset set of bushings. Install them in a fashion that will allow you to even out your adjustments and call it a day. Good luck, let us know how it turns out.

 

[Darter6]

sacrifice one being close to the target to get them equal?

Usually when using stock parts you will have to compromise.Equal or as close as possible with both caster/camber readings.This way you won't have any pull ,left/right while driving.

 

[JedIEG]

Thanks for the thoughts. I am a bit gun shy of fully adjustable UCAs because all the stress of the arm has to go through the adjustment threads and I would worry about that cracking or the lock nuts coming loose.

Anyway, I decided to leave the driver side as is since its maxed out and adjust the passenger side for equal caster.
Driver side
-0.2 camber, 2.4 caster
Passenger side
-0.4 camber, 2.4 caster

It would be nice to get a bit of the camber back and more caster so the offset bushings seem like a good option.

 

[dvw]

That's perfect. I've performed literally1000s of alignments. Most old Mopars dont get that close. You have to remember the factory manual steering caster spec was -1/2. Even power steering caster was only +3/4. So middle of the road was +1/8 Fortunately the camber specs were +1/2 & +3/4 so that allows the rear cam to be swung in to dial in negative camber. Allowing the front cam to be swung out, which as you have figured out My 64 racecar runs just over +2 caster. Regularly runs 145-150. Also remember any chassis rake removes caster at a one to one ratio. Under acceleration the fro t end lifts so chassis rake is diminished and you gain positive caster.
Doug

 

[JedIEG]

Thanks for the feedback. I'll leave what I have with my crude measurements until I can get it to a shop to verify. Just need to get the toe dialed in tonight and see how it drives.

 

[#41]

Nice job! I think you'll be happy with 2.4 and can spend that money for offsets on something else.

 

[Darter6]

This is just a FYI. Mancini has spacer shims that go between the lower ball joint and backing plate/spindle if needed to dial in. I have had suspension rebuilds that to match good caster I would have too much camber.The spacer will allow camber to decrease some without affecting caster.Easier than replacing upper control arm bushings with off set ones.That is unless you need more adjustment.

 

[383man]

On my 63 street car which is all stock parts I run camber at 0 to + 1/2 and give it all the pos caster I can which with stock parts is around maybe 2 pos. Set my toe at 1/8 to a 1/16 in. Works great for me as I drive it all over and race it on them specs and it handles fine. Ron