Mechanical Paint Removal In Detailed Area’s
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1 Wild R/T
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When your all done blasting you can roast your turkey in it!
69 MBee
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Norton used to make a stripping disk(blue in color) that I used to strip paint with an old Makita grinder/polisher, until I got the SCT Contour. The Contour is a bit pricey but it works very well and I've stripped many cars with it. Typically takes two drums (black)to do an entire car to bare metal and leaves a perfect profile on the metal.
Thanks. With that larger drum how did you get in the corners and tight spots? Thats what I was after in this post. I would love to have that machine but its pricey to justify over flap and abrasive discs with angle grinders that I already have.
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don't get it in there? the masking it up suggestion/ idea is supposed to eliminate that........ you do have a dilemma; I have the luxury of a rotisserie, where I can spin, blow and vacuum. You have my sympathy, this **** is a pain in the ***, sometimes you have to get creative, and attempt what seems to be ridiculous. A few hours of strategic preparation can save hours of hassle later.
in the past, I have made custom hoses and attachments for the air blower and shop vac; for cleaning out rails, rockers, drops, ect
Dr. Dr. My arm hurts when I go like this…….then don’t go like that.
yeah I hear what you saying but the area’s I would want to hit would be the doors the trunk the wheel wells etc. All of which would make the car very heavy lol because I can’t shake the sane off or in your case rotate the body a few times to get it all out. Doing resto work without all the space tools is definitely a challenge…….but your right one needs to get creative and its clear by the lack of unanimous answers that we all just need to find our own path to getting it done.
RussT Plymouths
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Power-TEC 91988 Mule Skinner 3pc + Arbor. Never clogs
Pops started using these in his body shop many years ago before he finally got the sandblaster, (yes I grew up in a body shop when these cars were new). They do a pretty good job cleaning the carbon from an OxyAcetylene weld and getting rust and paint cleaned out from a rear window opening, so they would work for you. I had the best luck using them on a fairly fast air drill, (3000-5000 rpm), this helps keep the brush round. They are somewhat self sharpening, when they dull a bit turn the brush around on the arbor. Don't try to run them backwards, they just get loose on the arbor. I've got them in 2" and 3" sizes.
We have several cigar boxes full of slightly used cheap wire brushes of many styles that I'm gonna toss, they are useless.
I would definitely advise quality gloves and eye protection be used. When these won't reach, I've repurposed broken drill bits to get stuff out of the cracks.
I haven't purchased any for several years but here's some links.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/324475404780
https://carchem.com/products/muleskinner-encapsulated-2-wheel
https://www.amazon.com/Power-TEC-91496-Skinner-encapsulated-brush/dp/B00ATPNX82
Pops started using these in his body shop many years ago before he finally got the sandblaster, (yes I grew up in a body shop when these cars were new). They do a pretty good job cleaning the carbon from an OxyAcetylene weld and getting rust and paint cleaned out from a rear window opening, so they would work for you. I had the best luck using them on a fairly fast air drill, (3000-5000 rpm), this helps keep the brush round. They are somewhat self sharpening, when they dull a bit turn the brush around on the arbor. Don't try to run them backwards, they just get loose on the arbor. I've got them in 2" and 3" sizes.
We have several cigar boxes full of slightly used cheap wire brushes of many styles that I'm gonna toss, they are useless.
I would definitely advise quality gloves and eye protection be used. When these won't reach, I've repurposed broken drill bits to get stuff out of the cracks.
I haven't purchased any for several years but here's some links.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/324475404780
https://carchem.com/products/muleskinner-encapsulated-2-wheel
https://www.amazon.com/Power-TEC-91496-Skinner-encapsulated-brush/dp/B00ATPNX82
dsd1967
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Wire wheeled this whole thing. I used a DeWalt 4" cutoff grinder with HF wire wheels both Cup wheels and Radial wheels plus some of the 3M nylon wheels. I did the detail work with small wire brush wheels and cup wheels in a drill. The trick with the drill is to find one that does 3000 RPM....not 1800 RPM. I found a cheap HF drill that did the trick. And as someone mentioned above....you can reverse the drill and the wire wheel acts like a new one again. Definitely wear a face shield and safety glasses if using the 4" cutoff grinder....and I wore welding gloves and a heavy shirt/coat. When those wires come off at the RPM's the cutoff wheels run at...they tend to want to stick into things.
Well done! I know how much work that was to do! Is the surface have enough tooth structure from a wire wheel? Normally epoxy needs a 180 grit or so for a good bite….??
So look what I found and just got…
Well this thing is a beast. Doesn’t necessarily solve all my applications especially for this post but wow. 9A 15 mins used the weight of the unit on the trunk and curved surface. Used the crud drum wheel that comes with. For $19 I got the 2 year no questions asked HF warranty. Well worth $129 so far.
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Rag soaked in lacquer thinner. Leave it set on those areas for awhile until it starts to work.
Oh chemical thats cheap and an effective delivery method. Then what just wipe it down? I suppose no smoking while doing this huh?
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You'll have to experiment with it. Might depend on what was used for paint previously. Repainted with an epoxy paint with hardner might not desolve as quick. Some factory, baked on paints will be a little stubborn to desolve. Just keep the saturated rag on the area longer. If lacquer thinner will cut it then just wiping it off to bare metal is good enough for primer. Good luck!
Smoking while preforming this can speed things up but finding all of the original parts could be problematic.
Lol its the original factory paint.You'll have to experiment with it. Might depend on what was used for paint previously. Repainted with an epoxy paint with hardner might not desolve as quick. Some factory, baked on paints will be a little stubborn to desolve. Just keep the saturated rag on the area longer. If lacquer thinner will cut it then just wiping it off to bare metal is good enough for primer. Good luck!
Smoking while preforming this can speed things up but finding all of the original parts could be problematic.
69 MBee
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Using the new drum tool, a few wire wheels configurations, rowlocks.....I think you got it figured out!
The drum sander is hands down the easiest, most effective way to conquer the stripping task. Glad HF had the tool. Wait til you get to use it on someone's previous bondo escapade... it makes short work of it.
The drum sander is hands down the easiest, most effective way to conquer the stripping task. Glad HF had the tool. Wait til you get to use it on someone's previous bondo escapade... it makes short work of it.
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Works great
Elbow grease too
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